Bought a Hatfield and soon after receiving had the main spring break. Looked for and bought 2 springs that ended up not correct. Bought an L&R lock for it. So impressed, I bought one for a Renegade. Better built, Quicker and now I have the original as a backup and L&R available if anything goes wrong with the Hatfield. In the heat of annual shoots, the last surprise I need is a broken lock.
Percussion locks
- Thread starter lbothell
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I have a caplock Cabela's Hawken, built by Investarm. The lock is just fine.
Back in the 1990s I had a CVA Hawken caplock and again no problem.
In the early 1970s my father had Ron Griffie build him a poor boy .40 caliber percussion rifle. Since Dad was on a budget then Ron used a CVA lock to save a few bucks. Dad shot the heck out of that rifle and never had a problem with it.
Back in the 1990s I had a CVA Hawken caplock and again no problem.
In the early 1970s my father had Ron Griffie build him a poor boy .40 caliber percussion rifle. Since Dad was on a budget then Ron used a CVA lock to save a few bucks. Dad shot the heck out of that rifle and never had a problem with it.
Erwan
45 Cal.
Most of the percussion locks are working fine in fact of the simplicity of their building, it's a bit different with the flint locks...
Never had a real problem with a percussion lock from Jukar/Dikar/Ardesa/Traditions' (for example) first price brand and no more from Pedersoli. I've had some gremlins with a couple of flintlocks, but that is another story...
Never had a real problem with a percussion lock from Jukar/Dikar/Ardesa/Traditions' (for example) first price brand and no more from Pedersoli. I've had some gremlins with a couple of flintlocks, but that is another story...
Some CVA locks have a heavy bridle over the tumbler, seem well made and sturdy. Other of those locks I have seen have no bridle at all, is this the newer, cheaper style?
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