Permalyn or Tried and True

[Vaino]

I use 2 coats of 2 different finishes and the total drying time is 36 hrs. First are the 2 wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Then 0000 steel wool removes any LMF that's on the surface. A good vacuuming removes any steel wool strands. Next are 2 sparse finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat w/ a complete dry between coats. When done. the finish is dull but a couple mins of rubbing w/ a fluffy towel imparts a soft sheen. This finish looks like there isn't any finish on the wood ....Fred

 

[Art Caputo]

I have used Permalyn, both the sealer and the finish formulations. They are basically the same except for the sealer being thinner to enable penetration with a faster dry time. I like the sealer for the un-exposed recesses(lock, mortise, barrel channel, etc). Either dries relative fast and leaves a gloss style finish. I personally like TOTW Original Oil. It consists of linseed oil and pine distillates which enables fast drying, and serves as a hardener as well. It has more of a “rubbed” non-gloss” finish, durable, and brings out the wood figure and color quite well. If a gloss finish is desired, Permalyn (sealer) as a final coat is compatible, and will give a varnished appearance.

 

[Pete G]

I use Homer Formby tung oil finish. Tru-oil is too glossy for my tastes on long rifles. Looks more like a Weatherby finish.

 

[Curley 50 cal]

For what it's worth, I don't use any sealer of any kind on the stocks I've finished. I see no need for it. This applies to both maple and walnut.
After sanding, dewhiskering and staining, he finishing oil does a nice job of protecting and sealing the wood.View attachment 69298

Beautiful stocks. You are a craftsman!

 

[Booneliane]

Tru-oil is too glossy for my tastes on long rifles.

Thank you!

I was beginning to think I was the odd man out when it came to tru-oil.

 

[torpedo]

2nd that on Tru-oil, but the gloss can be reduced with various methods. I prefer BLO thinned at first then applied full strength until I get my desired results.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
The OP asked for the differences between Permalyn and Tried and True. I've used them all at some point in time. Permalyn contains some sort of compound very much like polyurethane. It is easier to use than Tried and True and more forgiving when applying. It is also as weather resistant as you can find without applying an epoxy finish. However, it builds up quickly and can have a glossy plastic look unless you take care applying it and rubbing it back. Tried and True linseed oil varnish is as close to a historically correct finish as you can get without making your own. It is a linseed oil and varnish mix. You have to apply it very sparingly and wipe off any excess. It must dry fully between coats. If you don't do that it will be soft and seem like it never dries. However, it produces a very fine and historically accurate looking finish, more so than Permalyn. Both benefit from first coats that are thinned so they penetrate a little deeper and help seal the wood a little better. Nonetheless, don't fall for any fairy tale about "deep" penetration of any finish.

dave

 

[painter]

Hi,
The OP asked for the differences between Permalyn and Tried and True. I've used them all at some point in time. Permalyn contains some sort of compound very much like polyurethane. It is easier to use than Tried and True and more forgiving when applying. It is also as weather resistant as you can find without applying an epoxy finish. However, it builds up quickly and can have a glossy plastic look unless you take care applying it and rubbing it back. Tried and True linseed oil varnish is as close to a historically correct finish as you can get without making your own. It is a linseed oil and varnish mix. You have to apply it very sparingly and wipe off any excess. It must dry fully between coats. If you don't do that it will be soft and seem like it never dries. However, it produces a very fine and historically accurate looking finish, more so than Permalyn. Both benefit from first coats that are thinned so they penetrate a little deeper and help seal the wood a little better. Nonetheless, don't fall for any fairy tale about "deep" penetration of any finish.

dave

Dave,

Thanks for that. What do you think about applying one coat of Permalyn over the entire stock to coat the inlets, and then switching to Tried and True varnish oil on the exposed areas?

Nate

 

[dave_person]

Hi Nate,
Generally, if a two finishes have the same thinner, they will be compatible. I am not sure that is the case with Permalyn and Tried and True. However, the issue is always if one layer will bond with the previous layer. In most cases, that is universally resolved by sanding the previous layer. For example, there is evidence that many original Lehigh Valley rifles were first coated with shellac and then a linseed oil varnish. Shellac is thinned with alcohol so the thinners differed. However, if you lightly scrape or sand the shellac sealer, it will accept an oil varnish on top very nicely.

dave

 

[painter]

The Tried and True has no solvents according to the SDS. The Permalyn has several, mostly Stoddard solvent, Benzene, and Naptha which indicates that it's a urethane. I was planning on sanding, or scraping, the first application back,

 

[Siringo]

The Tried and True has no solvents according to the SDS. The Permalyn has several, mostly Stoddard solvent, Benzene, and Naptha which indicates that it's a urethane. I was planning on sanding, or scraping, the first application back,

Permalyn is a tough finish. I use the sealer only and rub on micro coats. I can finish a stock in 2 days. Tried and True is 2 weeks (in the summer). Sunlight is your friend with tried and
True.

 

[kcullers]

Dave,
When you cut your first coat with turpentine what is the ratio of Permaline or Tried & True to turpentine?
Thanks.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I use 2 coats of 2 different finishes and the total drying time is 36 hrs. First are the 2 wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Then 0000 steel wool removes any LMF that's on the surface. A good vacuuming removes any steel wool strands. Next are 2 sparse finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat w/ a complete dry between coats. When done. the finish is dull but a couple mins of rubbing w/ a fluffy towel imparts a soft sheen. This finish looks like there isn't any finish on the wood ....FredView attachment 69524

Very nice wrist carving.