Permatex {Prussian Blue}

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I would have thought Prussian Blue would be oil based and not real good for wood use.

Many years ago I worked at an engraving shop building 3-d type dies.We used bluing of several types.
Prussian blue was most excellent for use on machine handles, back of bathroom door knobs and under lunch box handles. Just imagine where the blue would rub off if you did not know you had it on your hands.
Of course someone told me about this, I really didn't participate.
 
Lo and behold, I'm now the proud owner of a new tube of "Permatex" Prussian blue which probably will out last me. Went to the local NAPA auto parts store and presto I walked out w/ something that I've searched for long and hard and which in the end, was right under my nose. Thanks to everyone for their responses......Fred
 
Sorry, I was thinking of MSC Industrial Supply.
[url] http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm[/url]
 
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pb.jpg


Okay here is a photo of the Permatex "Prussian Blue" item #80038 I bought today at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Used for metal work, NOT wood to metal work. Note the applied color on the metal. Cost less than $3 dollars. Hope this clears some stuff up . :grin:

Davy
 
Wow!! All these years I've been using something that isn't supposed to work w/ metal to wood. Have been using Permatex for inletting all the metal parts into stock blanks since 1978 and in my ignorance didn't know that it isn't the way to go. Have had no trouble w/ the slight amount of absorption into the wood, but am going to mis-apply the "Magic Markers" to see if they work better than "Permatex". In the end, I'll use what ever gets the job done........Fred
 
I haven't tried it but I don't know why it wouldn't work.
I'm still working on the little tiny jar of inletting black I bought 11 years ago. :grin:

For those who don't know, inletting black (and this Prussian Blue) is used for inletting metal parts like the gunbarrel, tang, trigger, sideplate etc. into the stock.
For doing this type of fitting, you apply the compound to the metal in a very thin coat. Install the part into the stock, remove the part and then remove anyplace you see the compound.**
The oil in the compound never has a chanch to soak into the wood.

** The builder has to use his head when doing this. When inletting things like barrel tangs, the compound will rub off on the sides of the groove. If the tang is fitting into the groove nicely, this wood on the side of the slot would not be removed. :)
 
flehto said:
Wow!! All these years I've been using something that isn't supposed to work w/ metal to wood. Have been using Permatex for inletting all the metal parts into stock blanks since 1978 and in my ignorance didn't know that it isn't the way to go. Have had no trouble w/ the slight amount of absorption into the wood, but am going to mis-apply the "Magic Markers" to see if they work better than "Permatex". In the end, I'll use what ever gets the job done........Fred


Hey Fred.. sorry not steppin on toes here .. continue as always amigo! Use what works for you ... I do! :thumbsup:

Davy
 
I didn't think any toes were stepped on and I welcome any and all replies and responses. It's amazing how much a fella can learn on this site and just because I've been doing things a certain way for many years, doesn't mean a closed mind to other methods. I'll admit...I need all the help I can get........Fred
 
I used to use the blue, now I have gone black. I just take the strait acetylene flame to drop all my barrel and locks. It turns that black as well my may car! No messing around, instant black!

Pat
 
I've seen a couple of your guns on TOW Fred, and I can vouch for the fact that your use of Prussian Blue for your inletting definitely had no ill effects on the outcome of the rifle! :thumbsup:

I hope my Chambers Lancaster looks half as good as yours when it's done! :bow:
 
Thanks for the compliments....a guy gets lucky once in awhile. Chamber's early Lancaster kit is one of the best on the market and was pure pleasure to assemble. Good luck on your endeavor....Fred
 
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