Pietta 1851 .36 questions

[RoadKill_RPD]

I am new to BP and obtained a Pietta 1851 brass framed .36 cal. I have attempted to take it apart to see how it works but ran into stuck mainspring and trigger/bolt screws. The slot is too thin for most of my gun screwdrivers, but one of my Russian gun's screwdriver fit. I cannot budge either screw and I'm starting to bugger up the mainspring screw head slot. Does Pietta Loc-tite those screws? I am afraid to put heat to it until I get some professional advice. I have tried penetrating oil, but had no luck. Are Pietta and Uberti screws compatible? I have found a lot of Uberti screws, but not a lot of Pietta ones.

Also, I am trying to disassemble the ramrod assembly but can't figure out how to remove it from the barrel. There is no screw holding it in place. Can someone provide direction on that as well?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jappo]

On your last question. There should be a screw holding the loading lever. Another where the lever attaches to the plunger. Picture for reference.
On your first question. Most all spring screws are the same. The one on the wedge is also the same size.
I work on antique engines and learned how to remove stubborn screws. A plastic handle screwdriver will work. Or just the screwdriver blade. File it or grind it to fit the screw slot. Position the blade on the screw and hit it with a hammer. Might take up to three good strikes. Don't whack away on it. But don't tap on it either. A good solid hit. I have removed many a screw and bolts that way. Works good on stubborn nipples too. The tightest screw on these revolvers is the spring screw. I grind down chisels to fit specific screw size.

 

[bigstick6017555]

http://f.jwwb.nl/public/b/7/f/outlawscolts/schema.large.jpg

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

On your last question. There should be a screw holding the loading lever. Another where the lever attaches to the plunger. Picture for reference.
On your first question. Most all spring screws are the same. The one on the wedge is also the same size.
I work on antique engines and learned how to remove stubborn screws. A plastic handle screwdriver will work. Or just the screwdriver blade. File it or grind it to fit the screw slot. Position the blade on the screw and hit it with a hammer. Might take up to three good strikes. Don't whack away on it. But don't tap on it either. A good solid hit. I have removed many a screw and bolts that way. Works good on stubborn nipples too. The tightest screw on these revolvers is the spring screw. I grind down chisels to fit specific screw size.

My Pietta does not have the screw for the loading lever. It does have one that attaches the plunger to the lever.
Where should I position the screwdriver blade, inside the slot or at an angle?

 

[Jappo]

My Pietta does not have the screw for the loading lever. It does have one that attaches the plunger to the lever.
Where should I position the screwdriver blade, inside the slot or at an angle?

You sure it's an 1851. The 1861 is different. (Please excuse the blurry pictures)
Position the screwdriver inside the slot. Just like a regular screwdriver. That puts the inertia directly on the threads.

 

[hawkeye2]

Pietta and Uberti screws do not interchange.

 

[Smokerr]

Pietta to the best of my knowledge uses Metric threads on the fasteners. I have seen no locktite. They put them in tight and you not only need the right slot size but also the right shape on the screwdriver to get out.

 

[CyrusP]

I’m stating the obvious but you did remove the backstrap so you have full, straight on access to that mainspring screw? Clamp her in a vice, and with a properly fitted screwdriver do the hammer tap trick stated above and then apply careful but steady downward pressure on the screwdriver while turning.

 

[Moasf]

Pietta and Uberti screws do not interchange.

I found that out the hard way.

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

You sure it's an 1851. The 1861 is different. (Please excuse the blurry pictures)
Position the screwdriver inside the slot. Just like a regular screwdriver. That puts the inertia directly on the threads.

Hmmm... It is quite possibly an 1861 by looking at your pictures. This is why I came here! I was told it is an 1851. Thank you!

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

Pietta and Uberti screws do not interchange.

OK. I need to refine my search anyway. Now I think it is an 1861.

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

I’m stating the obvious but you did remove the backstrap so you have full, straight on access to that mainspring screw? Clamp her in a vice, and with a properly fitted screwdriver do the hammer tap trick stated above and then apply careful but steady downward pressure on the screwdriver while turning.

Yes, I took the backstrap off. I have been able to take the revolver apart enough to get to the trigger/bolt spring screw. I'll have to try to modify a screwdriver to fit the screws.

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

Now that I know the CORRECT Model number, I found a video on YouTube that shows how to remove the lever. THANK YOU!!!

 

[Jappo]

On the mainspring, after removing the backstrap, loosen the trigger guard. Push the spring out from under the hammer in the direction of loosening the screw. That should loosen the screw.

 

[RoadKill_RPD]

On the mainspring, after removing the backstrap, loosen the trigger guard. Push the spring out from under the hammer in the direction of loosening the screw. That should loosen the screw.

No dice. Spring turns, but not the screw. Trigger/Bolt Spring screw is just as tight.

 

[TFoley]

Pietta to the best of my knowledge uses Metric threads on the fasteners. I have seen no locktite. They put them in tight and you not only need the right slot size but also the right shape on the screwdriver to get out.

Italy is part of Europe and Europe along with 99% of the rest of the world, is metric.

 

[Jappo]

No dice. Spring turns, but not the screw. Trigger/Bolt Spring screw is just as tight.

Ok, well that's all I can tell you. It works for me. Sorry I couldn't be of help.
Good luck with it.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Roadkill, one of the best tools that I know of is the small impact tool that uses the 1/4" hex drive bits. This has the advantage of applying the impact vibration while making a small turn at the same time.

I have one similar to the one I have linked below. You will have to get a slotted screwdriver bit and grind the tip to properly fit the slot in the screw. This works just as @Jappo instructs in his post above. Sure, using the plastic handled screwdriver and tapping while turning will do almost the same thing. Of course, several liberal applications of the penetrating oil will help as well. Give the penetrating oil some time to work. A mix of 50% acetone and 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid is one of the best penetrating solutions I know of.

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-10025-3...6b8-982c-6c916a75431e&pd_rd_i=B09D37KHJ1&th=1

 

[Ed C.]

If you end up needing parts, Taylors is a good place to find them. As a last resort you can try heat IF you or someone has had experience with a torch. The idea is to quickly apply heat to the metal surrounding the screw, not directly to the screw keeping temps below what may damage the gun. Hence the need for some experience. If, by chance, those screws were loctited the heat will also loosen them.

 

[PapaRoach]

You have come to the right place for info. The wealth of knowledge on this page is unbelievable!