Pietta model 1858

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Steve Grentus

36 Cal.
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
60
Reaction score
1
Location
Florida
Anyone have any experience with this handgun? This is the N-SSA approved model. Cabela's has this handgun at a wonderful price. Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thank you


gh
 
They're a good gun.
If your looking for a Rem 1858 reproduction these are just fine.
Read a few of the other topics in this section while your hanging out, there are several in just the first few back pages about this revolver.

But all-in-all they have little to no problems,
Pietta's revolvers of the 21st century are among the better models.

Cabelas have had them listed at 179.99 of recent, they seem to run that sale several times a year
 
Go on youtube and watch all the videos you can on shooting black powder. Some are better then others thats where i started.

Once i felt i though i could do it i gave it a shot.

My dad had most of the stuff i needed i just needed a little more time with what load to use and what all the little accessories he had did.

I like the hickock45 video on shooting his BP Remington.
 
These revolvers are great right out of the box. They require no modification. When I shot them in CAS I developed arthritis in the second joint of my thumbs. I competed in a lot of matches. It seems the hammers are way higher than Colts. The hammer springs can be lightened a bit but you can go too far quickly. If you don't plan to shoot a lot and use the offhand to cock, you shouldn't have a problem. I had to switch to 1860 Colt Armys but they got expensive action jobs and a Manhattan conversion. Eventually even these were too much for my poor old thumbs.
 
Steel frame is good. Brass frame just won't last as well without becoming loose. Brass stretches under the strain of firing over time. Stick with the steel frame and you will be happy with your revolver.
 
I dont mind a brass frame on a colt i think they look better then a remington brass frame.

I think a brass frame remington will hold up better longer then a colt in the brass frame but i have one of each and im not scared of them at all.

I shoot such light loads im not worried. Ide compare my loads to like a 38 special and my loads are usually hotter then many others shoot.

I shoot a lighter load so i can shoot more per pound.
 
I've been dry washing my hands now for a while as I have one on the way for Christmas! SWMBO tries to tell me she didn't order one for me, but I opened a package she said was safe and found the free starter kit from Cabelas!

I felt an Uberti was likely a little better, but I'm not sure the cost difference makes up for what little is better, and I intend on another with a few spare cylinders. The cost difference between all of that made me give the Pietta a try. If I find that I truly cannot stand all of the writing or if it's just not up to snuff I can always sell it and buy an Uberti set.

Had I have been looking into a stainless model I would have went for the Uberti though, as the prices are similar for the pistols.

One thing I intend on doing though is boring out the chambers to at least .450" if not up to .452" and maybe even chamfer the mouths. This way I can share conicals with my ROA, and hopefully seal the barrel better as it seems they come with .445-.447" chambers to work with a .451-.452" groove diameter.
 
FWIW (the Remington 1858 design, nothing to do with who made it), the cylinder pin is about 1/3 the diameter of Colt's, and is quick to foul up and stop the cylinder from rotating, and sometimes make pin removal very difficult. I like to grease the pin liberally, and wipe the fouling off with BP solvent every other cylinder load.
 
On another forum I read how someone had made a small inset ring around the cylinder pin to hold a small O ring to help keep the fouling off. Sounds interesting, and worthwhile.
 
Purchase a cylinder loading stand to load the pistol, wipe the cylinder loading pin clean and lubricate the pin. You do not have to modify the pistol.

Cylinder loading stands are standard equipment for line shooters and take the pressure off the pistol re-loading parts when re-loading. Mess up a ROA and you cannot find parts from Ruger, SOL.

A stand is cheap and my fingers appreciate the relief.

Ever put too much powder and filler in a pistol and cannot seat the ball deep enough? Only 2 ways to seat the ball deep enough for the cylinder to spin.

I use a stand and when I shoot limited time fire in line matches it saves time. Taking the cylinder in and out, I have plenty of time to complete the match when using a stand.
 
Put white lithium grease on the pin and forget about having problems with fouling. I get 6 to 8 cylinder full worth of shooting without fouling.

Many Klatch
 
Line shooters seem to prefer the .36 in Uberti to the .44, don't know about a 40, that would have to be made.

Some line shooters like a Pietta with progressive rifling, I have never seen one.

In the past, Uberti was superior to Pietta, don't know about today's manufacturing, not qualified to voice an opinion.

The discussion which is better in the past, Uberti or Cimarron after careful study, the workmanship is the same, but you can get more finish options on the frame from Cimarron.

Discussion which is a better buy, Pietta or Uberti, I have to go with Uberti based on one decisive point. Uberti front sight can be drifted left or right to change the point of impact.

That is more important than a few dollars.

Spread over 20 years, $20 dollars is nothing when it come to happiness, I buy quality, not cheapness.

For line shooter's the cap and ball revolver is the hardest to master of the pistols needed in a 1,000 point match, it is very finicky and does have a temper at times.
 
Other than Tresso nipples the only thing I did to mine was file sharp corners off of the trigger. Out of the box mine almost cut my trigger finger.
 
I'd like to actually measure solid brass frame guns that are supposedly stretched.
My guess is that they are imprinting the back of the cylinder into the recoil shield and head space is increased rather than the actual cylinder window is elongating.
I suppose though that the barrel threads could stretch just as the arbor does in open top designs but I have never seen it before. Mike D.
 
The "stretching" is called endshake, and it happens in all revolvers. Headspace is required for functioning, so after the hammer drives the cylinder forward, the recoil of the load drives the cylinder backwards. The more of a running start it gets, the harder it impacts the frame.

I once wore out a Ruger Super Blackhawk back when I thought all loads had to be all you could get from them. Funny how time changes that perspective.
 
The only thing i ever have problems with my brassers is the remington will jam up almost solid.

I found out the front of the frame that surrounds the cylinder pin gets fouling and it has pits in the brass then it jams between the cylinder and the brass part of the frame around the pin.

Last time i tore it down i filed the gap a little then polished it. Now i juist need to try it see if that fixed the issue.

Mine is the texas version target and its very tight the gap is tight i think thats why it locks up the fouling just doesnt have much room so it binds.

Other then that the colt hasnt had any issues

The key is finding grease and stuff to lube it that isnt petrolium based.
 
I hope they are good, in a moment of weakness I just ordered a 12" from Taylors, steel blued. I had a stainless (make unk) but last summer I had to sell several guns to make a house payment and miss it. Hoping this ones better, I like blued myself. I researched a bit and reviewes were very good.
 
Cableas has them on sale for 179 with a free starter kit. Mine should be here in a few days.
 
Back
Top