pillow ticking patches

[jdkruger]

this one is for you experienced round ball shooters .

i had my lovely wife pick up half a yard of pillow ticking for me today from Stuff Mart.

for shooting patched round balls out of my .50 cal. tennessee mountain rifle ,what size do i cut these patches at ???? ::

im assuming they should be square, right??? :hmm:

also , what is the best way to lube them w/ bore butter.

thanks in advance men .

God Bless America :thumbsup:

jim k ::

 

[roundball]

this one is for you experienced round ball shooters .

i had my lovely wife pick up half a yard of pillow ticking for me today from Stuff Mart.

for shooting patched round balls out of my .50 cal. tennessee mountain rifle ,what size do i cut these patches at ???? ::

im assuming they should be square, right??? :hmm:

also , what is the best way to lube them w/ bore butter.

thanks in advance men .

God Bless America :thumbsup:

jim k ::

FWIW, the precut/preluded pillow ticking patches I use for .45/.50cal RB's are 1+1/8" diameter...

 

First off run the material thru the washer to get rid of the starch and sizing in the ticking. I would cut them into 1 1/2" strips, and cut them at the barrelwhen loading, useing Stumpy's Moose milk or snot. Milk and snot is cheap to make, and it work fantastic. Sure is nice to have a wife doing ya favors, so ya don't haveta look silly in the fabric dept. where somebody ya might know could see ya. They could get the wrong idea about ya, and think yer a frufru kinda guy being in the fabric dept. :crackup: Know what I mean? Bill

 

[cayugad]

Bill--

I do the same thing. Wash the sizing out of it and do not dry it in the dryer or the ends frizz real bad. I then decide how wide a strip I want depending on what I will be shooting. I always tear the strip instead of cut it with shears. I apply the lube to the strip, knock the ball under the muzzle and cut the patch off right there with a patch knife. You then get a perfect patch each time.

 

[jdkruger]

thanks Bill

you really cracked me up with the fru fru thing. had me laughing my tail off. :crackup:

where do i find the milk or snot recipe on here ,ill give it a try?

do you trim the patch at the top of the ball ,

or a little longer? :: always used precut and packaged patches, but that was many years ago and am just now getting into this more seriously. :thumbsup:
thanks again

God Bless America :thumbsup:

jim k

 

[jdkruger]

cayugad.
whats a patch knife ::

jim k

 

[Slamfire]

Whenever I have to pick up somethin' from the fabric section of Wally's I carry an official lookin' list on my wife's stationary. The ladies smile and are very helpful. The only men that see me are pushin' their wives' carts. :crackup:

 

[jdkruger]

you guys are to much :crackup:

i where those goofy glasses w/the mustach and billy bob teeth,(suits me well).
::


jim k ::

 

[Stumpkiller]

Where do I find the milk or snot recipe on here, I'll give it a try?

Here 'ya go. :redthumb:

Stumpy's Moose Milk

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

[cayugad]

cayugad.
whats a patch knife ::

jim k

A small thin blade knife made for the purpose of cutting the patch material from the muzzle of the barrel. I have also used a jack knife, roofing knife, one of those push a little metal blade out at a time knives, and even shears to cut the patch material away.

Actually a small pair of scissors work really good to cut a nice even patch from the muzzle....

 

[Slamfire]

A straight razor does well. :huh:

 

[Old Charlie]

I had the GPR flinter out yesterday and just to see what the difference would be, I cut some of my patches at the muzzle. Then I shot some just square 1&1/4 x 1&1/4. No differance! They were touching the hole of the barrel cut patches.`
Old Charlie

 

[Rat]

I cut my patches round.

Dare to be different!

:youcrazy:

Rat

 

[Stumpkiller]

What's a patch knife?

Here's a sample patch knife (also large enough to dress a deer).

Those three patches were all cut at the muzzle from 1-1/2" wide strips of cotton (all pre-lubed and air dried).

 

[leslie]

When I get out a micrometer and start measuring the fabric I sure get a kick out of the looks I get.Nobody seems to have nerve enough to ask what I am doing.

 

[RussB]

When I get out a micrometer and start measuring the fabric I sure get a kick out of the looks I get.Nobody seems to have nerve enough to ask what I am doing.

Oh, they will ask....just wait. :nono:
But you will crack-up, when they tell you, "they do it differently".

It seems there is some kind of code on the roll that gives a "general thickness", and the good folks will never understand why you worry about compressed, and not compressed ....they feel that is a function of the arm on the sewing machine... :crackup: :crackup:

Try not to blush when you hear 'em giggle, and say , "there comes that guy with his silly little thing again"....... :shocking:

Russ

 

[Gametracker]

Whenever I have to pick up somethin' from the fabric section of Wally's I carry an official lookin' list on my wife's stationary. The ladies smile and are very helpful. The only men that see me are pushin' their wives' carts. :crackup:

Well, the problem with Wally World 'round here is that the fabric
section is in full view of the automotive and sporting goods section

 

[cayugad]

Well, the problem with Wally World 'round here is that the fabric
section is in full view of the automotive and sporting goods section

They do that for the benifit of us guys who have to haul the little woman around. And of course those ladies have to go to the fabric department, walk every isle and talk to every stranger they run into.

At least we can go and look at the automotive tools, air compressors, and our fabric section is within ear shot of the sporting good.

 

[Markwhiz]

Aw heck, guys..............the fabric and lingerie depts are great places to pick up women at Wally World! :: :crackup:

 

[Wart]

Generally, pillow ticking is around .18 in thickness ... while cotton (say like your pillow case is made out of) runs around .10 in size. My wife sews, so I get the scrap cotton. As mentioned earlier, this has all been washed.
I will take strips about 2" wide that I've ripped off the piece of material ... the jagged edges don't hurt anything, (besides you may need a piece of dental floss to get a bit of your dip out from between your teeth) ....
Seriously though ... I've seen many blackpowder users that feel they have to beat the ball down with the ramrod ... I like a tight fit but want to be able to seat the ball without running the ramrod through my hand or pounding the top of the lead round ball ... FLAT.
As for a lube ... I use spit ... yes, I know many say that the salt in your spit will pit your barrel ... I've been shooting for many a year and dought if I'll ever have enough spit to do serious damage if any.
Some say that a spit patch will freeze in cold weather ... I've never noticed this being a problem ... have hunted in some nasty weather ... the game had more sense than me as generally they are holed up.
My procedure in loading is to cut a patch about 2" square off the strip of material hanging from my hunting pouch. I put it in my mouth while I'm pouring the powder into my antler measure. Then I put the powder in the barrel and take the patch out of my mouth and place it over the end of the barrel ... set the round ball on it - spur up..., use my short starter, then seat it with the ramrod. I don't trim the patch (use to years ago but found it isn't necessary) ... then I prick my touch hole (remember, I'm using a flintlock) with my brass pick ... I prime with 3f and am set to go.
I've used lube and have nothing against it ... its just that I figure I've always got spit with me and its easier (my opinion).

hope this helps ...
Wart