Pillow Ticking "Shot Cups"

[Eric Krewson]

Wayne, try the same load in your jug choked side and let us know how it goes.

 

[BrownBear]

Wayne, try the same load in your jug choked side and let us know how it goes.

Now there's a great idea! :thumbsup:

 

[Wayne/Al]

I thought about doing that Eric but I guess you could say I would be a little nervous about sending that load through the choked barrel. It would probably be OK but the barrel was modified and I had it jug choked also so I think I'll wait and let someone with a cylinder bore barrel thats been Jug choked try that.

Side note: I busted a breech loading shotgun barrel long ago when I shot it with a little obstruction in the barrel.....so I guess you could say I'm a little gun shy..HA Talk with you later.

Wayne/Al

 

[Eric Krewson]

I hear ya! Take no chances. I have a 20ga trade gun that I will try the patched shot in. Would be neat if it throws a good enough pattern to turkey hunt with while I finish my 12ga, jug choked, turkey stomper.

5 or 6 turkeys had escaped the trade gun unscathed so far so I gave up cylinder bore for chasing the rascals.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

BB - I STILL like the idea of washing the ticking in starch. Stiffen the "shotcup" up pretty well, I'd think, and it would ride on outta the barrel nicely and then drop away when the payload hits the air on a count of the starch making it heavier. Picture it.

 

[Twice boom]

BB - I STILL like the idea of washing the ticking in starch. Stiffen the "shotcup" up pretty well, I'd think, and it would ride on outta the barrel nicely and then drop away when the payload hits the air on a count of the starch making it heavier. Picture it.

.
Why not just dip your ticking in pure wax solution and have them lube your barrel on the way out,as well.. It will form better in the barrel I think and it just might hold together without bunching up before it left the barrel. Make a mold by cutting off the base off a 16 ga plastic shell, dip the ticking , and with a dowel of proper size push it down the mold to dry. Load your shot tie the end with some thin sewing thread ,push it out of the mold when it dried and drop it down your barrel . Hell around my house I can do that while watching the boob and if my theory is correct it will less messy as well..
Just a thought.
Twice

 

[BrownBear]

BB - I STILL like the idea of washing the ticking in starch. Stiffen the "shotcup" up pretty well, I'd think, and it would ride on outta the barrel nicely and then drop away when the payload hits the air on a count of the starch making it heavier. Picture it.

Yeah, my mind is rattling around in the same direction. The trick may be to shape the "cups" while they're wet with starch and letting them dry, so they're preformed. I'm thinking that because on a recent trip to the city I picked up some heavy ticking that's stiff with sizing- almost like cardboard. I cut out a piece and tried to seat that, and it was kind of like a round peg in a square hole-- way too much effort and I would need a much smaller doohicky to make it work.

I'm all about convenience in the field, so that's where the preforming is going to come in if I stiffen up the patches I think.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Tried patches in my 62cal trade gun today. I only took two shots at 20yds, one without a patch and one with. My printer ran out of ink so I couldn't print any more targets.

80gr of 2F and 1 1/4 oz of #6 shot, one over powder wad on top of the BP and one over shot wad on top of the shot. Pretty hot load according to my shoulder.

I did have trouble getting the shot in the wad and would pour a little in and tamp it down with a dowel until I got it all in the barrel inside a 3" diameter patch. To lube the patch I grabbed what ever was close at hand, in this case Marvel Miracle oil.

First shot without a patch, held to tight a bead and shot low but you get the picture. Pitiful pattern.

Next shot with a patch. Three shot would have killed the turkey.

I feel with a drop in powder my pattern might even be better. My patch did have a hole burned in it.

 

[BrownBear]

My patch did have a hole burned in it.

Hmmmmph. I haven't burned a hole in a patch yet. I'm wondering if you had a wad under it? That's been my routine so far, but always kinda wondered what would happen without the wad.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I think I need a different wad column, the last three shots turned the wad to a pile of fluff.

I tried 70gr of 2F, 1 1/4oz of shot and greased the barrel after I seated the shot. Still turned the patch into fluff but shot a much tighter pattern than in the second picture. No turkey could have survived that load.

My first three shots were with .012 pillow ticking, the last with .018 ticking. The patches were about 3/4 of the way to the target at 20 yds.

My pattern was hitting left pretty consistently, same as the impact point with round balls, might be time for a little barrel bending.

 

[BrownBear]

How were you greasing the ticking, and were you using a base wad of some sort?

I'm learning from you because I haven't torn up my patches bad at all. I had about convinced myself that my lube job on the patches was waaaaay heavy, but maybe I should keep doing what I'm doing and put up with the mess.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I tried putting a base wad inside the patch but it was a no go on a 20ga, too much patch material and too small a bore.

I saturated the patch with oil and squeezed out the excess. I think a heavier lube other than the light machine oil I used would be a better idea.

 

[dbutch]

posted this for shot column load

Here's my pillow ticking load...pink wad for shot measure only

75 gr FFF Goex
2 white thin over shot cards
2 OxYoke wool over powder wads lubed
1" X 4" wet lubed pillow ticking patch
95-100 gr. equiv. # 5 shot lead nickel plated or chilled
2 over shot cards white thin

have used Hoppe's Bp Sol. and lube also Stumpy's moose snot regular and olive oil blend for patch lube.

this load for 20 ga. choked turkey barrel

here's the patch's after range session--longer patch's used with more shot.

Using a very wet lubed patch helped very much with keeping the fowling soft and allowed me to shoot over 20 shots in a row no swabbing.
Wet patch clung to barrel while loading.

 

[BrownBear]

That strip may hold more promise long run than my round patches. Sure easier to make and use, even cut at the muzzle like I do with rifles and RB in general.

More food for thought and yet more shooting to do, and I thank you! :hatsoff:

 

[dbutch]

BB Your welcome..the strip allows the patch edges to butt up instead of overlap. ran my powder and under patch cards and wad down about 2.5 inches the Used short tube to poke the patch into the bore..this held every thing up while I poured in the shot.( Just like to see what I'm doing).covered it with an over shot card and rammed it all down at the same time...also used a lubed patch attached to the rod while driving this load down..Soft fowling is good!
Ticking strip patches work..Good luck have fun!....Dan

 

[paulvallandigham]

With a 20 ga. you would want to try a 24 ga. or even a 28 ga. wad( OS card, or OP wad, or felt wad) inside the fabric pocket, or cup. Anything larger than the 24 ga.(.58 cal.) would be too tight a fit, IMHO.

It works even better if you use a 1 inch wide strip of fabric to form the cup in a 20 ga., about 4 inches long, lubed, and set down on an OP wad, to support it while you put the 24 ga. wad inside, and then poor the shot into the cup. Trim the fabric ends at the muzzle, and push a OS card on top.

Using a wad INSIDE the cup makes sure that the shot is pushed free of the fabric together, keeping the pattern tighter as it travels down range.

I am sure that stiffening the cup with starch or other methods will also delay the opening of the cup and shot separation so that the shot stays together further from the muzzle.How much depends on how stiff the cup is, and whether you cut slits in the fabric to help it open up and become an " air brake" to aid in the separation.

You can also use a "dime" coin wrapper- made of heavy paper, and sold in office supply stores-- cut to length, to LINE the cup to provide a longer lag time for separation outside the barrel. This method allows you to leave the fabric lubed-oiled-- but gives you a hollow Tube to hold the shot in the cup , both protecting the bore from the shot, and vice versa, and giving a delay to separation of the shot from the cup after it leaves the muzzle. You will have to do your own testing to see if you need to cut slits in the front of these "tubes" to create the "air brake" needed for separation consistency. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[rabjr]

I found 1 1/8" wide strip covers the entire bore. Anything less and there is exposed bore.

Ok I trimmed the patch from 1 1/4" wide to 1" and I get a sliver of barrel showing on both sides so I think 1 1/8" should be fine for what I will be doing.

This the 1" wide strip.

 

[luieb45]

Where'd you get those printable turkey targets?

 

[Skychief]

I found 1 1/8" wide strip covers the entire bore. Anything less and there is exposed bore.

Ok I trimmed the patch from 1 1/4" wide to 1" and I get a sliver of barrel showing on both sides so I think 1 1/8" should be fine for what I will be doing.

This the 1" wide strip.

What gauge are you working with there Swampy?

 

[rabjr]

Thats a 20ga barrel.