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I'm old fashioned and like guns to look like they did when they were built. Because Ceracote didn't exist in 1865, I wouldn't even consider it.
It would be like painting a Ferrari with a roller. :(
 
I'm old fashioned and like guns to look like they did when they were built. Because Ceracote didn't exist in 1865, I wouldn't even consider it.
It would be like painting a Ferrari with a roller. :(

It's like digital camo painting an M14, even if it's one that was made last year, it's still an M14 and it's not from the digital camo era. I think that's called 'Incongruity'. It's like seeing that Desanti water bottle in Game of Thrones that time....

That said, who am I to talk, I recently mounted a ShotKam on one of my flintlocks. Super cool footage....
 
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call it an anachronism or a fantasy build and you are all good!

Consider doing the stock is in digital camo done with a roller for full effect.
Can you make it belt fed???

Nah seriously your gun do what you want. I would have no trouble with a stainless sidelock in plastic or laminated stock but wood and steel are in my opinion best. Or do it in stainless to simulate arsenal bright steel. That is legit
 
The browning on my new Pedersoli Howdah 20/20 had the look of a coating and had a measurable thickness with an electronic thickness gauge, though getting a stabile reading on curved steel is impossible. Readings were 0.3-1.0 mil. I did not like the appearance so I removed it. It took some effort to wear off this by rubbing with successive grades of Scotch-Brite and then steel wool to 0000. The final result was a pleasantly grayed steel which could not be brightened with further work. It did show some faint gray streaking. I wonder if a fired ceramic could be worn down like this. Yet in the process it seemed I was gradually taking down a coating.
 
It’s your gun, do as you wish. But..........I have just finished a Hawken using LMF on the barrel, and it was an easy process, and turned out great. I recently got back into this fine activity after a very long absence. The guns I browned roughly 40 yrs ago still look very good.
Scroll through the postings on this forum using the search function. You will quickly get a lot of info that will help make up your mind.
if you want an inexpensive, very durable finish that looks great, and is easy to do, brown it. My 2 cents!
 
After wiping the spittle off my iPad and walking around my kitchen island 3 times with my arms flailing above my head, I have found myself in a place where I can calmly say, “Don’t Cerakote your traditional muzzleloader”.

Yeah something like that was my reaction as well.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. I have some of the same misgivings about cerakote but looking for the best of the best possible outcomes forces me to at least think through options.

I'm going to go with Laurel Mountain barrel brown for the finish as originally planned.

.40

Very wise decision.....In time, I suspect you would have deeply regretted it........At least on that particular rile.
 
[QUOTE="LawrenceA, post: 1781970, member: 44958"

"........Consider doing the stock is in digital camo done with a roller for full effect.
Can you make it belt fed???....."

[/QUOTE]

HA!!!

P.S.; NOT YELLING!
 
Whoever said cerakote will rust never had real Cerakote or whoever put it on did it wrong. Cerakote is the most permanent finish I have ever tried and I have been doing guns for over 50 years. I am an engraver and use it over some of my gun engravings.
No solvent or remover will take it off, Not even aircraft paint remover or oven cleaner.
But it must be applied as the manufacturer says. And it is not cheap. It will never rust as long as you live. The metal must be surgically clean before application. not just washed or cleaned with acetone. Butyl acetate is the best prep.
 
I have a better end factory hunting rifle finished w/ it and the regularly held areas have already rubbed clean to the metal. Roughly 50-75 hunts/shoots.
 
I only posses 6 muzzle loaders, my shotgun and Walker are factory blued. My rifles and pistol I built and left them bare with a touch of Kiblers patina solution rubbed back to my taste. I used LMF cold browning once and it was great, however decided to remove it and go with the bare metal. Just me. I found that Naval Jelly will remove blueing and browning fairly well.
 
[QUOTE="LawrenceA, post: 1781970, member: 44958"

"........Consider doing the stock is in digital camo done with a roller for full effect.
Can you make it belt fed???....."

HA!!!

P.S.; NOT YELLING!
[/QUOTE]
And add a chassis or at least piccatiny rail you can bolt the torch and thermal to as well as the coffee grinder.
 
You also need to consider resale value, if you have to sell it in the future. I don’t think too many traditional shooters would like that finish.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. I have some of the same misgivings about cerakote but looking for the best of the best possible outcomes forces me to at least think through options.

I'm going to go with Laurel Mountain barrel brown for the finish as originally planned.

.40

Wise choice......take your time, learn the process and you,LL be glad you did.
 
Cerakote can be had in any color including matte or matte clear or glossy. They also have different classes for super rough handling and combat type situations. It is often applied on combat firearms. Abrasives will remove it only. Abrasives will remove the metal also.
 
I have several muzzleloaders I built from kits over 40 years ago and browned the barrels etc. They still have good color and have been used in wet weather. I just make sure they are dried and oiled after getting wet.
 
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