Polishing steel....

[zampilot]

I'm working a trigger guard, I started with files, then 240 grit, 400 and now 600 wet-dry. It looks good but there are some 'swirls' and 'clouds' that I cant seem to get rid of for that perfect overall shine. Any ideas out there? Thanks!

 

[widget350]

Are you planning on leaving it bright, or are you going to brown/blue it? From what I've read, browning/bluing doesn't require too fine a finish.

As for finishing it bright, it may be that you progressed to the finer stages of sanding too soon. If you keep all your sanding in the same direction, as you progressively move to finer grit, you shouldn't see a swirl, as any swirls would have been removed by the heavier grit. You may need to try a polishing compound once you get to a fine enough grit. Just a guess, though. I'm no expert.

 

[Zonie]

You may not be an expert but you made some good points.

If the idea here is to brown the steel trigger guard it shouldn't be finished much beyond 320 grit paper. Finer paper than this will keep the cold browning solutions from taking a "bite" evenly all over the surface.

If a hot brown like Plum Brown is being used the finer grit paper is OK but in my opinion the resulting brown doesn't look like rust browning.

If the guard is going to be left in the white, but not polished to a mirror condition all of the strokes taken with the sandpaper should be in one direction from front to back.

This will leave a soft steel sheen that can look quite attractive.

If a mirror finish is desired the only way to get it is to use a buffing compound and lots of elbow grease or a power buffing wheel.

Beware of some of the chrome "Polishes" made for car bumpers etc. They are actually quite course and will leave scratches.
It is better to stick to a real buffing compound like the hard wax stuff sold by Ace Hardware.
I would recommend the "Stainless" compound as it polishes fairly quickly and is still fine enough to leave a mirror bright surface.

 

[crockett]

I think different grades of steel will take, or not take, a mirror polish. The old Sheffield knives- I read some place- I think the Circle of the mechanical Arts posted by Pichou- that cast steel was used in knives to be mirror polished because blister and shear wouldn't take the shine as well. So....my friend- may be out of luck on a mirror polish. That said- Brownell's sells a green chrome steel polishing compound I usually use on a knife requiring a mirror polish.
If your steel won't take that mirror shine- think about taking back a bit with a brushed or satin type finish- ought to look okay.

 

[sutherland]

You may get a few swirls polishing by hand but not a lot if you polish lengthwise and are careful. When you're polishing with fine grits, like #320 or finer, using a common paper towel to wipe the metal can cause scratches or swirls. Always wipe gently with a soft cotton cloth instead. And always clean the metal well before switching to a finer grit.
Oh, and avoid Chinese sandpaper as if it were the swine flu. I used some #150 grit once that left marks like #50 grit on the metal that I was polishing.

 

[rich pierce]

It's next to impossible to maintain such a high polish on bright steel that is not case hardened.

 

[zampilot]

"If the guard is going to be left in the white....all of the strokes taken with the sandpaper should be in one direction from front to back."

Thanks Zonie and Widget,that's info I didnt have, I was criss-crossing like with file work.

 

[ohio ramrod]

So true! a hardened piece of steel will take a polish that shines so much that people often think it is stainless. While a softer pieces just never really shines.