Polishing the bore on a new ML.............

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Basically, coating a projectile with some kind of abrasive and firing it in the gun. I've done it to enlarge the forcing cone on an unmentionable revolver, but I wouldn't know how to begin for a muzzleloader... and I have a few guns that might benefit from this procedure.
I've heard it can be done about the same way as with the unmentionables. Take two plates of smooth steel and coat them lightly with the abrasive mixed with lube. Roll the bullet between the plates back and forth until the bullet has had abrasive ground into it's surface. Load and shoot. Clean heavily between abrasives. I've "rolled my own" for the other kind of guns many times. Works great. I have planned to do the same procedure on the next ML barrel which needs some help. Thought I'd lube up some mini balls with the mix and have at it.
 
Recovered patch. Cut, yes or no? View attachment 191376

Not really cut but not as good as it could be.

Should look more like this.

20220321_143519_copy_800x600.jpg
 
Hey fellas. I've read a few posts where members recommend polishing the bore on new ML. Well, I have two new ones that I am soon to try out. To my understanding, polishing the bore will help reduce the break-in time and I'm all for that one. So, this thread is intended to be a knowledge gathering thread on the subject of polishing a bore on a ML. Before I engage in this process, I would like to get as much information as possible from you all on procedures, products used, which direction the wind should be blowing (well not really that one) and any other tips that might help.

Thanks.
Btw, what kind of material are you using for your patches?
 
Btw, what kind of material are you using for your patches?
I think they are cotton and came from TOTW or the Possibles Shop. Don't remember which one as I have been buying quite a few things lately from different locations. They are suppose to be .015. I have more on the way for my .54 GPR. The next batch I buy I'm going to try to find some .015 pillow ticking. Couldn't find any for my .32 Crocket.

Edit: Just got my last order in the mail. My .54 patches are .018 pillow ticking with Wonder Lube.
 
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My suggestion is to use a felt pellet and White Diamond metal polish. Cuts fast and leaves a smooth surface. Here is the tool I built for holding the pellets, a #8-32 brass screw and a couple brass nuts. These have been cut down with a drill and file to better fit a 357 bore. You do need a ball bearing handle cleaning rod, prefer a single piece rod for this work.

IMG_20211015_214937_kindlephoto-41830104.jpg

The nuts not only hold the pellets in place (the included jag is junk) but you can adjust the amount of expansion for tighter or looser contact.

You can use JB Bore Bright, but it takes a very long time. I couldn't fine the other bore paste and won't bother now that I've used the White Diamond. You can use cleaning patches too, but it is a lot slower going. And all that said, I have polished and side like barrels, mostly because I'm not certain about cleaning the polish out of the breech. I've done a few barreled that I can push all the way through.

I also suggest that anyone starting down this path first buy a borescope, the cost is not that much and it will let you see the bad areas that need more attention. I have a cheap Teslong scope with the attached screen and recorder. Had a USB version but it was not working with phones and needed to be used with a computer, didn't want my computer near the mess.
 
Not cut, but changing the patch fabric for a tighter weave could be good: here the weaving is too loose, and the patch "could not be reused" (we never do, but we say that when the patch is good)...
That's what I have been thinking as well. When I hold those .015 cotton patches up to the light it's easy to see through the weave. IMO they are very porous.

I finally found and ordered some .015 pillow ticking. Hopefully that will make a difference.
 
Nope, nothing a dry wad over the powder couldn't fix and improve you're target if it matters for score or eating!/Ed
Although there can be distinct advantages in an over the powder wad, at this point I am not interested in adding any more to each shot than is necessary. Being almost 100 of my shooting is for hunting, the least the better. However, I will certainly go that route if it comes down to it.

I have not polished the bore as of now. And if the patches are not being cut, I doubt I will. So hopefully the .015 pillow ticking will do the trick.
 
Although there can be distinct advantages in an over the powder wad, at this point I am not interested in adding any more to each shot than is necessary. Being almost 100 of my shooting is for hunting, the least the better. However, I will certainly go that route if it comes down to it.

I have not polished the bore as of now. And if the patches are not being cut, I doubt I will. So hopefully the .015 pillow ticking will do the trick.
My own personal experience in using 1/8 felt OP wads, both dry and lubricated with beeswax/olive oil, was that it hurt the accuracy and in the case of the lubed wads greatly increased the fouling.
 
Ive "birthed" four GPRs and every one of them were serious patch slicers. Same with the Spanish barrels and also had a GM that was a cutter.

Those were all very good barrels once they were firelapped.
Things must be looking up then.

I just bought an Investarms “Gemmer Hawken” that’s being imported and the patches are pristine. No abrasions, cuts, or burn-through.
 
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