Popping a Flintlock's Lock

[Marc Adamchek]

We're dealing with the 18th century here, but unforunately my mechanical insight is pre-caveman. When cleaning a flintlock rifle, I'm assuming it would be beneficial to pop the lock off. If I do so, will I be in for any surprises, like unsprung springs, etc? What I'd like to hear isthat all I have todo is unscrew the 2 screws on the other side and the lock will simply be freed to remove and will stay completely INTACT. Aftercleaning, I justpop it back in place and screw those 2 screws back. Is this what I can expect? If it's more involved, is cleaning with the lock in place ok?

 

[roundball]

We're dealing with the 18th century here, but unforunately my mechanical insight is pre-caveman. When cleaning a flintlock rifle, I'm assuming it would be beneficial to pop the lock off. If I do so, will I be in for any surprises, like unsprung springs, etc? What I'd like to hear isthat all I have todo is unscrew the 2 screws on the other side and the lock will simply be freed to remove and will stay completely INTACT. Aftercleaning, I justpop it back in place and screw those 2 screws back. Is this what I can expect? If it's more involved, is cleaning with the lock in place ok?

That's the case on every one I've seen...comes out as a functional unit...can operate it in your hand, etc.

If you disassemble one for cleaning, polishing, lubing, or repair, etc...then of course you need to pay attention to screws, flys, springs, etc.

I remove, clean, and lube my flint lock assemblies any time I'm cleaning the rifle itself.

 

[Connelley]

You haven't mentioned who made it, but it is pretty certain that all you will have to do is remove the two screws. When they are about three turns loose, give them each a light tap to unseat the lock and then remove the screws. Both the main and sear spring are captive. I use an old toothbrush to clean the "innards" with solvent, and then a touch of oil on bearing surfaces. Be sure to tighten the screws alternately when reassembling.

Connelley

 

[scott k]

That's the case on every one I've seen...comes out as a functional unit...can operate it in your hand, etc.

If you disassemble one for cleaning, polishing, lubing, or repair, etc...then of course you need to pay attention to screws, flys, springs, etc.

I remove, clean, and lube my flint lock assemblies any time I'm cleaning the rifle itself.

Don't forget that on locks on Lymans and T.C. with coil springs on the main spring that the cock (hammer)should be back on full cock so the spring don't bugger up the lock mortise or rip out the wood.
Lehigh...

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Thanks, guys - It's an L & R lock. That's a good point. Do I need to have thelock cocked? half-cocked? not cocked?

 

[roundball]

That's the case on every one I've seen...comes out as a functional unit...can operate it in your hand, etc.

If you disassemble one for cleaning, polishing, lubing, or repair, etc...then of course you need to pay attention to screws, flys, springs, etc.

I remove, clean, and lube my flint lock assemblies any time I'm cleaning the rifle itself.

Don't forget that on locks on Lymans and T.C. with coil springs on the main spring that the cock (hammer)should be back on full cock so the spring don't bugger up the lock mortise or rip out the wood.
Lehigh...

:hmm:...I keep my TC Hawken locks in the full forward relaxed position when stored, or in the half cock position when I'm removing/reinstalling them...haven't experienced the full cock thing to avoid wood damage

 

[sherpadoug]

When you put the lock back, make sure the lock is tight against the barrel so powder can't get between them. Also don't over tighten the lock screws. Keep track of which screw goes where as they are often not interchangeable. remove the ramrod before removing the front lockscrew. The first time you take the gun apart mark the rotation angle of the front screw. Sometimes this screw has a notch in it to let the ramrod by. If the notch is not in the right direction the ramrod will stick. Don't worry if some of the internal lockscrews are not tight. The lock may bind up if you tighten them.
:m2c:

 

Thanks, guys - It's an L & R lock. That's a good point. Do I need to have thelock cocked? half-cocked? not cocked?

L & R locks have straight mainsprings. You should not have to have the lock cocked at all to remove it. You will also not need to worry about the lock "exploding" on you when you remove it. It is a self-contained unit, and will come out in one piece.

Flintlock mechanics aren't that difficult to understand, and you would learn something if you removed the lock and studied it for a bit. Hold the lock in your hand with the internals facing you, and work the lock. Watch the tumbler, sear, and mainspring and how they all relate to each other, and you'll understand them better. Pick up a $10 mainspring vise and start taking the lock apart and putting it back together. (You can find instruction on how to do this on the internet, or in any of the building books. It's very easy to do.) Before you know it you'll be fixing your own lock. :redthumb: