Powder charge for .45 cal rifle

[kansas_volunteer]

I can probably find a link to long-ago posts on the topic, but I'm certain it was agreed that the optimum charge is 11 grains per cubic inch of bore. A short barrel would shoot best with a light charge, long barrel better with a heavier charge of same powder. Just remember, pie are square.

 

[Pete G]

I can probably find a link to long-ago posts on the topic, but I'm certain it was agreed that the optimum charge is 11 grains per cubic inch of bore. A short barrel would shoot best with a light charge, long barrel better with a heavier charge of same powder. Just remember, pie are square.

No....pie are round; cornbread are square. :slap:

 

[hanshi]

LD, Both Ga. and Va. have a minimum powder charge of 50 grains; but I use 60 grains so am safely over the minimum.

 

[Billnpatti]

Many folks have their own idea for what is the best load for a particular rifle or caliber. For instance, Dutch Schoultz, one of the most knowledgable men about muzzleloading accuracy, says that a charge of about 1 1/2 the caliber will likely give the best accuracy. But, he will also be the first to say that each rifle is different and you will need to find what charge your rifle likes best.

I think that what you are seeing when you talk about how clean burning you are finding your present charge is the fact that it is a very efficient amount of powder and is being completely, or nearly so, burned up before exiting the barrel. Excess powder will not all burn before the ball leaves the muzzle and will consequently leave unburned residue in the barrel.

 

[Billnpatti]

.... the optimum charge is 11 grains per cubic inch of bore.

The calculation that you are speaking of is called the Davenport Formula. It is the calculation for the maximum efficient amount of powder that will be completely consumed before the projectile leaves the muzzle. According to the formula the maximum efficient amount of powder is calculated as 11.5 grains of powder per cubic inch of bore volume. The weakness of the Davenport Formula is that it doesn't take into consideration the various brands of powder nor the various granulations. But it will give you an approximate idea for what this maximum efficient amount will be.

 

[belld416]

I hate to keep beating a dead horse about how much powder to use while shooting, but I watched a you tube video by a fellow by the name "Uncle Sasquatch". He was speaking about accuracy of round balls and patch thickness.

He talked about finding your patch after you had taken your shot and if it was burned badly then you probably had to much powder, burned your patch which in return would not catch your rifling as well and decrease your accuracy.

I did notice yesterday as I was shooting that most all my patches that I found with my larger loads was smoldering and had the center completely burned out.

Is this common for most muzzle loaders? I hate to keep questioning you guys to death, but I sure do appreciate all the information.

Donald

 

[BrownBear]

It could just as easily be a lube failure. Or a reflection of the particular patch material.

For example, with a grease lube and washed ticking of good quality, neither my 58 caliber GRRW Hawken nor my 62 caliber full stock burn patches with their preferred 140 grain charges. But I can burn patches at only 100 grains by switching to spit.

 

[Steve-ALA]

My .45 has a 39" green mtn barrel. For matches, my load is 45 gr of 3f at 25 & 50 yards and my 100 yard load is the same as my hunting load which is 60 gr.

 

[BrownBear]

That's good to know. The Leman Sporter I'm having built has a GM barrel too, though it's only going to come out at around 32".

What ball diameter and patch thickness are winners for you?

 

[mooman76]

If there was ONE optimum charge to use per caliber. We would all know it by now and everyone would use the same charge.

 

[Steve-ALA]

I use a .445 ball in a .015 ticking patch. It's tight but accurate.

 

[BrownBear]

Thanks! :hatsoff:

 

[Nessmuck56]

I have a Green mountain 45 cal.....and run a .451 RB and .015 patch...70 grains FFF ..she cracks !

 

[coloradoclyde]

If there was ONE optimum charge to use per caliber. We would all know it by now and everyone would use the same charge.

And it would be stamped on the gun barrels... :thumbsup:

 

[Billnpatti]

I think there is likely a difference between the term "Optimum" as is being used by several folks on the forum and Davenport's definition of "maximum efficient" . If by "optimum" you mean the ideal accurate load, then we are talking apples and oranges. The maximum efficient load is just the maximum amount of powder that will be completely consumed before the projectile leaves the muzzle. It has little to do with the "best or most accurate" load for a rifle. I have tried using the load from the Davenport formula and have, in some instances, found it to be pretty close to the most accurate. It does seem, in some cases, to give the most consistent muzzle velocities as measured by my chronometer. However, this is not always true and that amount does not always prove to be the most accurate nor provide the best down range kinetic energy.

So, just how valuable is the Davenport Formula? Eh, :idunno: Hard to say. I guess it all depends on what you expect of it. Like I said, it has its shortcomings in that it does not take into consideration the variations in the many powders on the market. Just don't ask it to give you a spot on most accurate load for your rifle. The Davenport Formula can be useful in the right hands but, it is what it is and nothing more.

 

[hanshi]

Burned patches can result from not enough or not the right kind of lube. Burning can also result from patches that are too thin. Try increasing the loads by 5 grains until you get the best accuracy. An over powder wad can help, too.

 

[belld416]

I am using pre lubed patches that are .010" by the packaging. If I throw my micrometer or my calipers on them they only read .008". I am going to get some that are .015" thick and try them out.

In my opinion, trying to find the perfect balance is half the fun.

I noticed that Track of the Wolf carries the pre lubed patches with wonderlube. Are these any different than any other pre lubed patches?

 

[BrownBear]

I am using pre lubed patches that are .010" by the packaging. If I throw my micrometer or my calipers on them they only read .008". I am going to get some that are .015" thick and try them out.

In my opinion, trying to find the perfect balance is half the fun.

I noticed that Track of the Wolf carries the pre lubed patches with wonderlube. Are these any different than any other pre lubed patches?

Why not just stack two of your existing patches (.016" total) and try that before you buy.

I'm not a fan of Wonderlube, so no help there. I'd be more inclined to buy plain patches and experiment with various lubes. Find the right one, and you're likely to see a jump in accuracy, and with some of them a great reduction in fouling.

 

[mooman76]

It's best to buy the material and lube the patches yourself. You don't know how old the lubed patches are and lube can break down patches over time. Also if the lube don't work out, you are stuck with the patches instead of just trying another lube.

 

[timothy prouty]

TRY to get some pillow ticking from Walmart and put some Crisco or Thompson Center bore butter and put it in the oven at115 for10min good luck with everything