Powder, Cleaning and routines... ?

[patrick_ford]

I have recently bought my first muzzleloader, a Lyman GPR percussion in .50 caliber. I have tried real BP, Pyrodex and recently APP. I really liked the way the APP seemed to not foul nearly as much as the others and my wife really appreciated the "cleaner" smell. I am still in the process of sighting her in”¦

What are everyone’s thoughts on powder selection in sidelocks?

I wanted to get this particular rifle because I knew that .50 caliber components are much easier to find locally as are substitute powders. My first choice to get was a .54 caliber GPR flintlock, but I thought there might be too many considerations for a new shooter to be able to handle. Maybe next year”¦ J

I was hoping that you all could help a newbie out with a few questions. Are substitutes an absolute no-no in flintlocks? How do you keep down the fouling? What is your cleaning regime? I have been doing the following:

- Alcohol swab before shooting to clear excess lube
- Shoot, occasionally swab the bore when seating becomes challenging
- Swab out bore with heavy bore butter patch before leaving range
- Swab bore in hot soapy water
- After drying I swab bore heavily with bore butter and store

I check after a couple days later and swab. This usually yields a brown cross shape on my patch that is fairly distinct with on patch, but the second is much fainter.

I’ve hard that isopropyl alcohol helps break down fouling immediately after shooting and can help dry up excess water after cleaning. So I think I might try that today after shooting. I would appreciate any additional advice you more experienced shooters could provide.

I have heard some have perfectly clean barrels and really aspire to that sort of quality control. I love shooting muzzleloaders even after this short a time period. What can I change during and after shooting to make sure that my rifle stays in tip-top shape and optimizes my shooting experience?

Thanks in advance,

Patrick

 

[swquiro]

Patrick,

Swab out bore with heavy bore butter patch before leaving range


I think you would be better off swabbing with black powder solvent before leaving the range. Use the heavy bore butter patch as the final step before putting the rifle away.

The substitute powders seem to work fine in caplocks, but when you get a flintlock, stick with the real stuff for greater reliability.

Welcome to the great sport of ML.

 

[dukewellington]

I saw someone at the range using pyrodex in a flintlock. He had ground the pyrodex into a very, very fine power using a moter and pessle, and it worked evry time.

I clean mine with ht soapy water.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Every time you DON'T clean the barrel after a shot, the size of the powder chamber Changes, so that the same powder charge the next time moves the projectile further forward.

If you are shooting a flintlock, You need to be shooting Black Powder. This is not a point of discussion. Since you are, new, you probably don't know what a quick firing flintlock is. The other powders ignite a much higher temperature than does black powder, and are intended to be used in percussion action, and those unmentional zip guns others are using to cheat and get into muzzle loading deer seasons.

Since you are new to all this, I am recommending that you invest $15.00 and buy Dutch Schoultz's Black Powder Rifle Accuracy System.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

Its an investment that will teach you much, save you much aggravation, and time, and answer a lot of your questions. Most of all Dutch's advise will save you much MONEY! :thumbsup:

 

[Many Klatch]

It sounds like you are on the right track. I only shoot flintlocks anymore so some of what I tell you will not apply yet until you do get one. Imitation black powders need more compression to ignite properly, flinters don't provide the compression so ignition can be pretty chancy unless you use real black powder.

Most of my guns are set up so that I can shoot up to 25 or 30 shots without having to run a wiping rag down the barrel. That is if the humidity levels are with me. I use a thicker patch and smaller ball than some, but it is easier to load. All my shooting is offhand so I wouldn't notice a small deviation in accuracy between tighter ball and patch and looser.

When I get home from the range I clean my guns with hot water and soap. I mix up a bucket of hot water and spic and span. My wife has a flinter with a patent breech so she just takes the barrel out, puts the breech in the water and uses a ramrod and rag to pump the hot water in and out of the barrel through the touch hole. After a number of pumps she rinses it with clear water, runs a drying patch through it and then oils it. I imagine you can do the same thing with your new smokepole. You should also remove the nipple so all the trash gets flushed out of the fire channel.

I have been using a mix of 50% 2-stroke motor oil and Kerosene for years for oiling my barrels. It seems to work for me and it is cheap and easy to make.

Many Klatch

 

[ohio ramrod]

I agree that lots of hot soapy water will clean as well or better than comerical cleaners and save money as well. While some people like non petrolium oils I use spray on's long term rust preventive spray which is a mixture of wax and oil and get excellant rust prevention. I firmly believe the old saying: "If it works for you' use it."

 

[Johnny Tremain]

After a heavy shooting day 20-40 rounds.

I use some T/C 1000+ bore cleaner, swab until clean.

A few dry patches, then lube with a LIGHT coating of T/C 1000+ bore butter.

I also use T/C 1000+ patches.

I dont use oil

I dont not have to swab between shots EVER

I can shoot 50 or more shoots easy, loading one after the other.

I use only real black powder.

I have ZERO fowling, each patch takes the preious shots gunk down range with it.

Why would any one use anything else?

 

[dukewellington]

I ever clean my Gun at the range and it shoots fine. When I get home I just pour hot, soapy water down the barrel a few times untill the water comes back out clean. Theny dry it.
I don't use cleaning patches or bore butter. Sometimes I use Gun spray but that is mainly for my shotguns.

 

[Grenadier1758]

It sounds as if you have a good start on the process. You should be getting a feel as to how many shot it takes to make the loading challenging. Wipe the bore one or two shots before the loading becomes challenging.

The substitute powders work for a percussion gun, especially if you use a hot cap and a vented nipple such as an Uncle Mike's.

Its really black powder only for a flint lock. You can make up duplex loads that consist of black powder in the pan and a few grains of black powder near the breech and the remainder of the load a substitute. Its just not very convenient to go through all that hassle. Use black powder only.

All powders create fouling. Even the powders that don't build up much residue in the barrel to hinder loader add very corosive fouling to the metal surfaces. Good cleaning after every shooting session is necessary to keep the rust from building up. The good news is that there is no one best way to clean your rifle, there are however many different ways. All will use a solvent of some sort to clean the bore. Water is fine and some soap will help. Soap will disolve some of the oils, but you should be useng oils to lubricate and protect the bore after cleaning anyway. Hot, warm or cold water can be used. Some think that the use of hot water helps to dry the bore quickly and others will caution about hot water inducing a flash rusting as the water dries. Just use a good lubricant and lubricate the bore again a day two after cleaning.

Welcome to the sport of shooting traditional black powder rifles.

 

[ronrryan]

Previous advice on the forum: "100% clean, 100% dry, 100% lubed" for cleaning. There are a number of ways to achieve this, you pick the one that suits you after trying a variety. Part of the game. Good smoke, Ron