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bhasty0

32 Cal.
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Can someone break it down for me as to what kinds of powders are available, what they are used for and what would be recommended for a shotgun, waterfowl hunting specifically. Thanks
 
2F or 3F would be your best choices. I prefer 3F as it appears to burn faster and more cleanly than 2F.

1F is very coarse while 4F (or 7F) can be used for priming a flintlock (never as a main charge), though 2F and 3F work just as well and are less susceptible to moisture.
 
My personal preference in a shotgun is 2Fg. 1Fg should only be used in 10 ga, or bigger.
 
Black Hand, is your preference for 3f caliber specific? I mean, most charts recommend 3f for rifles below .50cal, and 2f above.
I have a .54 on the way, and I use 3f in my 45. I wonder if I can keep it simple and use one powder for both.
 
I use 3F in my 44 caliber pistols, my .54 rifle and my .60 smoothbores. I use 2F in my .72 Brown Bess. Like has been mentioned here before, the 3F seems to shoot cleaner.

Many Klatch
 
Powders available: Real black powder from Goex, Swiss, or any number of other manufacturers, (Goex being the most known, if not the most common in the states anyhow)
These are available in a number of granulations from 1f, (cannon) to 4f, (priming flintlocks).

Also available are a number of substitutes, (Pyrodex and Triple 7 being the most common)which are widely NOT recommended for various reasons. IMHO some of these reasons are valid most not so valid.

Uses: Traditionally, 1f is used for cannon; 2f for larger bore (.45 cal and above) rifle and smooth-bore / shotgun; 3f for smaller bore rifles and pistols; and 4f for priming the flash-pan of a flintlock.

Actual use varies from shooter to shooter, most that I have had the privilege of knowing find 3f to be a good balance for all general BP shooting including shotgunning. Some even prime the flash pan with it.

Hope I didn't bore you with the basics, but your question was what is available and what is its uses are..
 
As for BP shotgunning, I have absolutely zero experience with that. Some reloading with the unmentionables, but thats not valid here so I defer to those who do use these fine arms.
 
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks guys. I may very well be on my way to shooting my first BP shotgun...
 
I suppose I should mention that several of the synthetic black powder substitutes also come in pellets.

Generally speaking, these are made for modern style guns although they will work in Cap & Ball revolvers.

On the negative side, they don't work well in sidelock guns, they greatly limit the amount of variation one can do with the sizes of their powder loads and they cost an arm and a leg.

Whatever powder type one goes with, avoid these pellets like the plague.
 
Adui got in in one ... the reason you can't use substitute powders in flintlocks is that these are propellants, whereas black powder is an explosive (although not a very powerful one), and the 'subs' require much higher temperatures to ignite them. Therefore, they will not work (or will work very poorly) in flintlock guns. I've used them in percussion weapons, and they work fine, because the caps generate enough heat to reliably ignite them, but not so in flint.

Because 'real' black powder is classified as an explosive by the government, there are all sorts of rules which must be followed and many merchants just don't bother with carrying BP unless there's sufficient demand to make the hassle worth their while. (insert tirade about the nanny- state here) ...

It has been my experience that subs are a bit more expensive, and much is made of whether or not they are more corrosive (although I think that this is a moot point - you have to clean your gun as soon as possible after it is fired anyway)... I use BP for everything, since BP is cheaper and now I don't have a bunch of different types powder laying about - went through that while I was figuring out how to reload centerfire stuff ...

my rifles range from .36 to .50 caliber, and I use 3F for everything..

hope this helps.

make good smoke!
 
I guess I'm becoming 'that guy'... :thumbsup:

Today with American Pioneer 3f, 5 out of 5 shots went off instantly in my new Kentucky 50cal.

The last 15 shots in my Bess, 15/15. All big booms.

I guess it doesn't count if I'm using Goex 4F in the pan.. eh?

:stir:
 
For what it's worth, some members on here have reported tighter patterns in their smoothbores with Fg or the Swiss 1.5Fg, especially with heavy shot charges for the bore/gauge. Some of this may be related to barrel length, chambered vs. plain breech, wadding, etc. You'd be best to try the various possibilities and find out what works best for YOU in YOUR gun.

Regards,
Joel
 
Fg, FFg, and FFFg will all work in a shotgun. I use FFg. BrownBear (a very knowledgeable member of the forum) reports better patterns with Fg in all the gauges that he has tried.

For wing shooting I strongly recommend real Black Powder. Consistent, rapid ignition is so important when swinging on or through a fast moving target. Most of us end up buying powder through a club or on the internet.
 
I typically use 2F black in my 12 gauge shotguns. My rifles seem to like 3F black. I typically will experiement with both to see what they like best.

Jeff
 
For what it's worth, some members on here have reported tighter patterns in their smoothbores with Fg or the Swiss 1.5Fg

Glad you qualified that statement by saying some members. For the record, not all are enthusiastic about the use of Swiss 1 1/2Fg in their smoothies. When I first took delivery of my Jackie Brown fowler I planned to use up a pound of Swiss 1 1/2Fg. I had on the shelf for my 'get acquainted' shooting. Could not get ignition. Hardly now way, no how. :cursing: Had to shove large quantities of 4Fg into the touch hole to set off the loads. Very frustrating. Tried 3Fg., couple brands, and ignition is highly reliable. I gave away the 1 1/2Fg. to a friend who loads for a black powder cartridge rifle. It works in that with a modern primer. Later learned the Swiss 1 1/2Fg. is really designed for use in bpcr only. It even looks different than other black powders, even other Swiss grades. I do not reccomend for use in ml rifles or smoothies.
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I use an original 14 bore (actually 2 of them, one a single barrel the other a double barrel) and 16 bore (42" bbl. fowler) and I find the best patterns are with 7gr of Swiss 1.5Fg(I get a 1000 shots to the pound and is cost effective to me) topped with 70gr of 1Fg Schuetzen powder. All of my guns are percussion and this combo provides an excellent burn and a it seems to me, a very controlled acceleration that holds the pattern well. I have not "chronographed" this load, but penetration has never been an issue if the shot size is matched to the game pursued...Your individual gun's performance maybe entirely different. :idunno:
 
7gr of Swiss 1.5Fg(I get a 1000 shots to the pound and is cost effective to me) topped with 70gr of 1Fg Schuetzen powder

Strange combo. :hmm:
But in this game there ain't no rules except some safety considerations.
I don't see any point in what you are doing but if it floats yer stick, go fer it.
 
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