Preparing Matchlock Rope

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nit wit

.69 Cal.
Staff member
Moderator
MLF Supporter
Joined
Jan 20, 2005
Messages
6,931
Reaction score
3,304
Location
Maine
Picked up a custom Matchlock at the New England Colonial show this Spring in Dover NH from Flint62smoothie!
What is the proper way to impregnate the rope with black powder? Also do I use 1F,2F,3F or 4F?
Thank
Nit Wit
 
The most important part of making match is bucking. That is, boiling it in a potash solution to get the lignin out. Lignin makes rope strong, but it also produces a lot of ash when burned. That gets in between the hot coal and the powder and causes misfires. Braided hemp, if you can get it, is the best because it won't untwist and "flower" when it burns. You can sometimes find it online. R&W Rope used to have it.

Line a big stainless pot with an old t-shirt, fill it with wood ashes, then hot water, and let it soak for 20 minutes. Then I bundle up the t-shirt and squeeze out the liquor. That's mild potash solution. Use rubber gloves. Alternatively, buy potassium carbonate on eBay. It's the pure version of wood ashes. I've gone from wood ashes to the powdered stuff just because it is less work. Don't use regular lye because it attracts moisture.

Then put in a coil of the hemp and simmer it for a couple of hours. The potash (potassium carbonate) cooks the lignin out of the rope. It weakens it but reduces the ash formation. The water will be brown. Wring out and rinse the rope a few times till the water coming out of it is clear. You might want to buck the rope twice to really get it lignin free. The rope will go from tan and rough to whitish and soft.

Then wring out the rope and soak it in dilute vinegar to neutralize the potash. Then rinse, wring, and dry.

You can use it like this or soak it in a dilute solution of potassium nitrate (saltpeter). The bucking is really the most important part.

I use the KNO3, but I have to be restrained with it because too much will make the match spit sparks, which is unsafe. If you use the KNO3, dry the match flat on a cookie sheet. Otherwise the KNO3 will migrate to the low points and make the burn rate uneven.

Twice bucked match with KNO3 is sure fire.

The sign of success is match that will burn with little ash and a big ice cream cone shaped glowing end. If it has a round nub of an end, try something different. It takes experimentation.
 
The most important part of making match is bucking. That is, boiling it in a potash solution to get the lignin out. Lignin makes rope strong, but it also produces a lot of ash when burned. That gets in between the hot coal and the powder and causes misfires. Braided hemp, if you can get it, is the best because it won't untwist and "flower" when it burns. You can sometimes find it online. R&W Rope used to have it.

Line a big stainless pot with an old t-shirt, fill it with wood ashes, then hot water, and let it soak for 20 minutes. Then I bundle up the t-shirt and squeeze out the liquor. That's mild potash solution. Use rubber gloves. Alternatively, buy potassium carbonate on eBay. It's the pure version of wood ashes. I've gone from wood ashes to the powdered stuff just because it is less work. Don't use regular lye because it attracts moisture.

Then put in a coil of the hemp and simmer it for a couple of hours. The potash (potassium carbonate) cooks the lignin out of the rope. It weakens it but reduces the ash formation. The water will be brown. Wring out and rinse the rope a few times till the water coming out of it is clear. You might want to buck the rope twice to really get it lignin free. The rope will go from tan and rough to whitish and soft.

Then wring out the rope and soak it in dilute vinegar to neutralize the potash. Then rinse, wring, and dry.

You can use it like this or soak it in a dilute solution of potassium nitrate (saltpeter). The bucking is really the most important part.

I use the KNO3, but I have to be restrained with it because too much will make the match spit sparks, which is unsafe. If you use the KNO3, dry the match flat on a cookie sheet. Otherwise the KNO3 will migrate to the low points and make the burn rate uneven.

Twice bucked match with KNO3 is sure fire.

The sign of success is match that will burn with little ash and a big ice cream cone shaped glowing end. If it has a round nub of an end, try something different. It takes experimentation.

I did not know about this part of the procedure. I made slow match for my mortar, and simply washed 100% cotton rope in distilled water, and let the rope dry, then soaked the rope in boiled, distilled water with some Potassium Nitrate, and let it dry. I think it was a pint of water and a tablespoon of KNO3 . It works for lighting cannon fuse. Probably beginner's luck

LD
 
Back
Top