Preventing load sliding forward from powder charge while hunting

[WonkyEye]

The "check that load" thread got me thinking about the REAL conicals i like for hunting. I get good accuracy from them out to 150yards, and can hit the steels at my range at 200 regularly. But, once they go past the muzzle they just slide right down. I plan on doing a check next time I'm at the range, but I think I might have an easy way to add some insurance. If any fly tyers are on the forum, you probably know a whip knot. I was thinking a couple wraps of a natural fiber like a linen thread in one of the grooves of the real bullet would do the trick, kinda like a paper patch. I'd have to experiment, maybe 3 wraps, maybe 5, but whatever the magic number is, it wouldn't take more than 10s-20s per bullet.

Can anyone think of a reason why this might be a bad idea?

 

[BillRob]

I haven't used REALs for some years because the the second shot was always so hard to load that it was not worth it. I probably had too tight of a fit, but it sounds like yours might be a tad loose. I don't know if the threads would affect accuracy or not, but it seems more likely than not that it would. I would say give it a try at the range and see what you get. Be sure to let us know what you find!

 

[stubshaft]

Why don't you just use a wad of tow to keep it in place?

 

[WonkyEye]

Why don't you just use a wad of tow to keep it in place?

That is a perfect solution, I'm almost embarrassed I made this post now. How obvious is it that I don't do smoothbores? Thanks.

 

[WonkyEye]

I haven't used REALs for some years because the the second shot was always so hard to load that it was not worth it. I probably had too tight of a fit, but it sounds like yours might be a tad loose. I don't know if the threads would affect accuracy or not, but it seems more likely than not that it would. I would say give it a try at the range and see what you get. Be sure to let us know what you find!

I powder coat them, so no leading, and I don't have to mess with lube in the rings. It takes about 10 mins of my time to do a batch of 100 or so, I do use a wool over powder wad saturated with liquid lube that keeps fouling from being a problem. It's effective enough that i can shoot 20-30 shots without swabbing. Eventually I get the crud ring that makes it hard to seat, and will stop to swab when. It gets bad enough.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

Tow is a great suggestion.

A light overshot card punched from poster board works well, too.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

But, once they go past the muzzle they just slide right down.

Once they go past the muzzle, do they slide down to the charge via gravity alone? With the weight of the ramrod alone? With application of light pressure?

I powder coat them, so no leading, and I don't have to mess with lube in the rings.

I would like to try this with my conical shooters.

So, when the oversize driving bands go past the muzzle, does the PC shear off, or does it stay adhered to the lead and compress to fit the rifling?

Do you do the shake-n-bake or spray on?

 

[WonkyEye]

Once they go past the muzzle, do they slide down to the charge via gravity alone? With the weight of the ramrod alone? With application of light pressure?



I would like to try this with my conical shooters.

So, when the oversize driving bands go past the muzzle, does the PC shear off, or does it stay adhered to the lead and compress to fit the rifling?

Do you do the shake-n-bake or spray on?

I've never pulled one to confirm, but there is never any paint left scraped off at the muzzl. I use Eastwood hot coat bright signal red, but I hear Ford light blue works best. I use an old extra large tums bottle, and gently roll them in the powder by hand for 5 min. After that I pour it out onto a strainer tray and let the excess fall through into a cardboard box. Make sure none are touching. I do take the time to stand them up, but I hear it's not necessary . I put them into a toaster oven in the strainer for 20 mins at 400. When they come out I knocked them loose on the strainer while still hot. I usually get about 95% coverage with 1 coat, so I don't bother with a 2nd.

 

[WonkyEye]

Once they go past the muzzle, do they slide down to the charge via gravity alone? With the weight of the ramrod alone? With application of light pressure?



I would like to try this with my conical shooters.

So, when the oversize driving bands go past the muzzle, does the PC shear off, or does it stay adhered to the lead and compress to fit the rifling?

Do you do the shake-n-bake or spray on?

I still have to.use light pressure.with the ramrod, but it seems like it gets easier the further down it goes.