Priming powder

[robinghewitt]

Sorry :: :: :crackup:

 

[rrgr40]

I think the reason that priming horns have gained in popularity is because most club ranges don't allow you to prime from the can or horn for saftey purposes. I aggree that the less you have and bang around the woods is best. Thanks for the info men.

 

The picture of the barrel breeches is about identical to the platinum or gold lined vents I've seen - all around in the 1/16" range. I just didn't have a picture to post.
: I've seen Bess's with touchholes burnt out to 1/8" and even larger. There must have been a 20 yard spew out of those guns.
: Suffice to say, that for hunting and competition, I'll continue to use 4F. It works for me.

 

[tg]

They may have conned the inside of the 18th century liners, they were not the "norm" and with a conned inside may have worked well with a small hole where as the normal drilled unconned thru the barrel hole would have been larger than a liner hole of the period?

 

[Herb]

Ridgeroader- nice point. I prime from the horn with 2F or 3F when walking and shooting, either works fine. But when I sit at my bench and shoot 30 to 50 shots at a session, priming from a horn is just too awkward. Thats why I use a small, 3 grain priming valve tube like from Track of the Wolf. And perhaps that fine 4F powder is more likely to be hit by a spark than the same amount of 2F or 3F.

 

[Liver eatin’ Johnson]

Guess I might as well add :m2c: to this thread as it peters out... I wonder if anyone has been able to test for flash temperature difference between equal amounts of ffffg, fffg and ffg? After all it is the heat that sets the main charge off, right? :hmm: hotter flash = sure ignition.

 

[musketman]

Good question, I have a microscope, spectrometer and a lava lamp, nothing for measuring temperature though...

Except myself...

I could hold 5 grains of each in my hand and set them off

FFg: Agggh! That's hot!!!

FFFg: [censor] that's [censor] hurts!!!

FFFFg: [censor] [censor] [censor] [censor] [censor] [censor] [censor]!!!!

 

Jim Chambers locks are very fast! I like the Deluxe Large siler it by far is the lock others are judged by. As far as pan powder I use fffg it is glazed with grapite and when hunting it stays fresh longer than the ffffg. With a good lock and touch hole I see no difference at all. I no longer use ffffg and the last can I bought was 35 years ago. The vent I like a tad high center,flame goes up not down. I have tryed all types from drilled hole and outside coning to reg. liner and the Chambers liner in a stubborn thick walled 11 bore fowler barrel. A good lock and touch hole will fire in 1/100's of a second and I can hardly tell it from a caplock! A good lock will fire upside down and light the powder before it falls out and fire the main charge. Some will fire faster than others but tuning and sometimes relocating and or installing a new touch-hole one will get the clean fast 1/100,s of a second speed of a good firelock the way its was designed for. I have found that a good flint is more reliable than a capock and better to keep firing trouble free!

 

[Stumpkiller]

Guess I might as well add :m2c: to this thread as it peters out... I wonder if anyone has been able to test for flash temperature difference between equal amounts of ffffg, fffg and ffg? After all it is the heat that sets the main charge off, right? :hmm: hotter flash = sure ignition.

I think you'll find that flash is flash. All granulations come out of the same pot. The powder is kernalized and run over sorting screens. The larger sizes get trapped in each set of screens as the hole sizes are progressively reduced. It's all the same chemical formulation.