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Priming Your Flinter

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Lee, what are you hunting with that .50 cal that you think requires 110 grs of 3f powder? Seems like kind of a stout charge. If you think you need that much powder, you probably need a larger caliber. :m2c:
 
I know, but still a pretty stout load for a .50 cal. i know you use 90 grs in most cal.s, but i don't feel that much powder is really required, especially for thin skinned game. JMO Whatever works for the individual i guess. And my typo on the 3f powder.
 
I guess it'll always puzzle me why the amount of powder somebody else chooses to use is an issue to some folks...particularly when they're legitimate, published loads from leading ML manufacturers
:shocking: :: :peace:
 
Roundball, it isn't an issue with me, just like i said, my opinion. Whatever works for you, just tickles me plumb to death. :: :peace:
 
I use FFFg for both prime and load in my .50 cal Traditions Pennsylvania Rifle, and it has a small lock and pan. I use 90 grains of 3Fg as my main load and only prime the outside half of the pan just barely to the top edge. Never had 4Fg so never tried it. 3Fg reliably fires instantaneously for me, so doubt if I will ever try the 4Fg... ain't broke, so why change it?
 
I use 2F for a main charge in my 50 cal. and 3F for the pan. The 2F just gives me a better group for a main charge with my Lyman trade gun than 3F. I use 3F in the pan because I have it and it works. Never even had 4F.
I use to grind 2F for the pan with a wooden morter & pistle. That works to. since 3F works well in the pan for me I stopped grinding the 2F.
O yeh I use one of those brass pan chargers. :front:
Lehigh..
 
Lately I have been using 4F again to prime, with a main charge of 3F in the .50 rifle and .67 pistol, 2F in the .69 musket.
But I will be going back to using 3F for both priming and main charge in all of these after I use up this pound of 4F. I don't notice a significant difference in any of my flinters to warrant my buying another can of 4F. Hell, I was using 2F before as priming in the musket! But recently I have found 3F to work very well in my .69 smoothbore musket, so no more 2F either. One powder for all...gonna simplify things again.
Jack
 
I use 3F Goex out of the same horn for loading and priming and can't tell any difference in ignition time from when I used 4F for priming.

It has taken several years to convince myself to eliminate the unnecessary stuff from my rifle pouch and now I don't even miss that stuff. Along with the little brass priming flask I was told was a necessity, I also eliminated that set of "flintlock tools" every greenhorn flint shooter has to have. Y'all know the one that has a knapping hammer, a pan brush, and a hand forged steel vent pick all connected on a round split ring. I filed down a piece of brass rod for a pick cause I didn't like the idea of risking a steel pick enlarging the vent. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the fancy flint wallet used for storing extra flints. It went into the "Unnecessaries Box" too. My spare flints don't seem to mind rubbing shoulders with their brethern in a small leather bag deep in my pouch.

Please excuse my getting off subject, trying to keep it simple is complicated for me.

Richard/Ga.
 
Hi Rebel,

Sorry it took so long to reply, work got in the way.

First, a story. The first buck I shot at with the flintlock, was a nice 6-8 pt whitetail chasing a doe at about 25 yds. The sight picture looked perfect when I squeezed the trigger, but to my dismay the buck continued on. I looked for a sign of blood for at least an hour, then I found a nice .50" hole in a 4" diameter oak. When I related the story to the builder of the gun, he said in typical fashion....."use more powder".

Now to answer your question, the last thing I was after with that load was a 3" x 5" card. The card lost. :front:

I could not resist.

Truth be told, she likes that load and I'm not going to change a thing.

Sincerely,

Lee
 
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