problems fleshing deerhide

[Don B]

I've begun the process of braintanning my first deerhide. I fleshed it out yesterday (one day after it was shot). I used a drawknife over a log, pushing the tool away from me. For the most part, it went well, but there are areas where the membrane between the skin and muscle simply will not detach from the skin. It simply rolls over under the tool. How thoroughly does this membrane layer need to be removed? Do you have suggestions for complete removal?

Also, I got the majority of the tallow off the hide, but there are still small but widespread globs of tallow on the hide. When I try to remove the last bits, they just smear under the tool. Does 100% of the tallow need to be removed? If so, any suggestions?

Thanks. Don

 

[Desert Rat]

It's been awhile, but you might want to try getting the hair off (if that's what you are going to do anyway) it might loosen up that layer or allow you to put better pressure on those tough areas. From what I remember it was all in how wet the hide was and the angle of the tool. You might try different wetnesses and angles if you are leaving the hair on.

 

[djnye]

i string it on a frame tight and use an old stanley floor scraper sharpened well with the corners rounded. the membrane and tallow all need to go. seems that the more meat and fat left on the easier the scraping. actually, fleshing is about the easiest part. watch out for knife 'ticks'--they can ruin a good piece of hide.

take care, daniel

 

[Don B]

Thanks for your replies.

Daniel, I hope to avoid dry scraping, given its problems with tools and time needed, and the risk of damage to the hide.

Desert Rat, Are you saying that I will still be able to remove the flesh-side membrane after liming and dehairing the hair side?

Won't the fat remnants be washed off during the liming process?

Don

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you let the sinew and fat) tallow) dry, you can scape it off easier. Then use sand paper to get the last remnants. You need to remove it all so that you can get the tanning compound into the whole hide. Otherwise, you will have spots that rot. Use the sand paper like a wisk broom, and it should grab, and remove the last connecting tissue. This process is a true PITA until you get the hang of it. Even then, its just something you endure.

 

[tg]

I found the flash side scraped easier if the hair is removed, it acts as a cushion against the beam, if you want the hair on a very sharp curved bladed knife will shave off the membrane but it is an aguired knack to do it with out making button holes.

 

[Elnathan]

Matt Richards recommends dehairing and graining before trying to get the last of the membrane off, IIRC. You might try a fleshing beam with a tighter radius as well. Don't get your fleshing knife too sharp, or you'll end up putting a hole in it.

I'll second Paul's idea about sandpaper. The only hide I have done was a hair-on calf-skin, and was a real pain to flesh as well. I ended up sanding the last of the membrane off after taking out of the alum solution - it refused to dry soft despite my best efforts, so I sanded it and rewetted it later. I ended up having to cover the flesh side in neatsfoot oil and soap to get it to soften properly - you apparently can't alum taw a calfskin like a rabbit skin!

 

Don,

I find using lime makes it harder to get the epidermis off under the hair. If you don't get it all off the hide soak up less of the dressing, develops hard spots, and makes it harder to work it dry. Simply put it in a bucket of water and let it soak until the hair pulls easily, about 4-5 days. Change the water every day or two to keep the whole thing from getting too funky. Trust me it'll work. No need for the lime.

The rest are right on dehairing first, but make sure you have a good beam to work on. I use a 6" diameter piece of PVC about 4' long. I did a mulie hide on it yesterday afternoon.

Sean

 

[Greg Weeks]

Sean is right. Soak it real good for several days. Once it is swelled with water, and dehaired, you will be able to get the remaining bits off. Braintan is so darn expensive, because it's a whole lot of work (elbow grease), but the end result is sooooooo sweet.

Greg

 

[Desert Rat]

There ya go, Sean and the others have given more detailed advice than I remember. I'm actually trying to work up the gumption to finish working a couple of elk hides I have. Good luck

 

Elk hides... The thought of that makes my shoulders and back hurt. I won't do anything above deer or antelope. Kinda funny. I was talking with a fellow here the other day who used to do a lot of cow bison robes the old fashioned way, but won't touch a bull hide. I've got 40 pounds or more on him and would sooner wrassle the whole live buffalo than that guy.

Sean

 

[Don B]

Sean, et al,

Do your remarks about liming also apply to using a wood ash solution for de-hairing?

If I got the plain water route, do I just scrape the loosened hair and epidermis off with the back of a dull tool (drawknife)? Will treated city water work or should I use lake water?

Thanks for your advice.

Don

 

Sean, et al,

Do your remarks about liming also apply to using a wood ash solution for de-hairing?

If I got the plain water route, do I just scrape the loosened hair and epidermis off with the back of a dull tool (drawknife)? Will treated city water work or should I use lake water?

Thanks for your advice.

Don

Don,

Yes, I was talking about the dehairing process. At least for deer and similar sized critters you don't need the lime or wood ash. Start it soaking on Sunday and scrape it the next Saturday. I use a piece of scrap hot rolled steel for a scraper, but the drawnife will work fine. Take the hair off first unless their are large chunks of meat or fat that make it tough to scrape that section. Take those off so you don't cut the hide when scraping the hair. The epidermis is the op layer of skin and it will appear darker than the rest of the hide. Its much thinner than paper. It has to come off so the dressing can penetrate. I do the whole center part of the hide leaving the last 2-3 inches and then go around carefully scraping the edges working from center to edge.

Once the hair and the epidermis come off, flip and scrape the meat, fat and connective tissue off. This is a lot easier. Just be careful scraping the areas near the tail, the armpits and loins, because they are thinner and tear easily. Work the edges the same way you do the hair.

I dress hides by mixing a good squirt of dish detergent for the emulsifier and a cup or two of cheap corn oil in the place of brains or neatsfoot oil. I've tried several things and can't tell the difference. Mix that with hot water in a bucket, just hot enough you can still put your hand in it. Work the hide around in it a bit and I usually let it set overnight covered.

Then the fun starts. Work and stretch that sucker until its really dry and supple. wring the manure out of it first. Get as much water out of it as you can before you start. I find the[url] Braintan.com[/url] way of using the steel cable to be too hard on my arms and shoulders. Make up a frame and a paddle.

When you get to smoking it, just be careful to keep it from getting to hot.

Hope that helps.

Sean

 

[Don B]

Many thanks for your advice, Sean and others.

Don