crackerboy
32 Cal.
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I've read to fire a "normal" load and a "double" load. Do you double stack on "double" loads
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Proofing muzzleloading barrel.
- Thread starter crackerboy
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By "double stacking" do you mean powder, powder, ball, ball? I think a double load is just in reference to the powder charge. Although two balls would certainly increase the pressure and test the barrel more severely. I think I would stand far back doing that one. I guess proof testing is best left to the manufacturer.
Also, best accuracy is achieved far below the maximum load. Whatever you do, be safe.
Horse Dr.
Also, best accuracy is achieved far below the maximum load. Whatever you do, be safe.
Horse Dr.
crackerboy
32 Cal.
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Hey doc, thanks. On the "double" load it was powder, ball, powder, ball. I have since read that a well known muzzleloading writer recommend's firng just a normal load and forget about above max. or "double" loads.
I'm not a professional gunsmith, far from it, but I have built several muzzleloaders myself. After the gun is finished I "proof" it by firing an extra heavy charge. Here is how I do that.
I don't do a double charge of powder as some have told me to do, but I do use about 1 1/2 times a normal load. So, for a .50 that might use a 70 gr. charge of FFF I will load it with about 100-110 grs. With a .54 that I normally load with 90 to 100 grs of FFF, I will load it with about 140-150 grs.
Just one patched round ball.
Then, I set the rifle inside an old tire that is lying on the ground. I put the rifle butt against the inside of the tire, and rest the forearm on the tire side with the muzzle pointing at a good backstop.
I lay a sandbag on the barrel to help hold it down on the tire.
Then, I tie a cord to the trigger, and get far, far back away from the gun, at least 20 yards back. I then pull the cord to fire the gun.
If all looks well after a careful inspection, then I'll load a normal charge and fire the gun from my shoulder.
NOTE: I do this with rifles. I have not tired it with a smoothbore. Smoothbore barrels are thinner than rifle barrels, so I would be very cautious with a fusil. With these, I don't really "proof" them. I just start with a light load and work up.
I don't do a double charge of powder as some have told me to do, but I do use about 1 1/2 times a normal load. So, for a .50 that might use a 70 gr. charge of FFF I will load it with about 100-110 grs. With a .54 that I normally load with 90 to 100 grs of FFF, I will load it with about 140-150 grs.
Just one patched round ball.
Then, I set the rifle inside an old tire that is lying on the ground. I put the rifle butt against the inside of the tire, and rest the forearm on the tire side with the muzzle pointing at a good backstop.
I lay a sandbag on the barrel to help hold it down on the tire.
Then, I tie a cord to the trigger, and get far, far back away from the gun, at least 20 yards back. I then pull the cord to fire the gun.
If all looks well after a careful inspection, then I'll load a normal charge and fire the gun from my shoulder.
NOTE: I do this with rifles. I have not tired it with a smoothbore. Smoothbore barrels are thinner than rifle barrels, so I would be very cautious with a fusil. With these, I don't really "proof" them. I just start with a light load and work up.
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I do the same thing Rancocas. I use a cannon fuse thought and tie the barrel down to the tire. In the event the barrel blows, the stock is safe.
Needless to say, making sure NOBODY is around but you, and the barrel is FIRMLY fastened to the tire, goes without saying.
I remember buying my Parker Hale Enfield and getting an official "Certificate of Proof" from the Birmingham England Proof House. The barrel has proof marks stamped into it, a common practise, I understand, when the Europeans were making muzzle-loaders. I think the Italian makers like Uberti et al do this also.
There was an interesting series years ago in Muzzle-Blasts about the pros and cons of proof testing and metal fatigue in barrels, even to the point of discussing incidents which allegedly happened with barrels which had been safely fired for years.
Interesting subject.
Needless to say, making sure NOBODY is around but you, and the barrel is FIRMLY fastened to the tire, goes without saying.
I remember buying my Parker Hale Enfield and getting an official "Certificate of Proof" from the Birmingham England Proof House. The barrel has proof marks stamped into it, a common practise, I understand, when the Europeans were making muzzle-loaders. I think the Italian makers like Uberti et al do this also.
There was an interesting series years ago in Muzzle-Blasts about the pros and cons of proof testing and metal fatigue in barrels, even to the point of discussing incidents which allegedly happened with barrels which had been safely fired for years.
Interesting subject.
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