Proper flint orientation/placement ?

[Greenjoytj]

I prefer to prime with 4fg because I've seen slow-motion video of the pan flash and experienced it.
The large granulation size powder launches larger burning embers of powder granules farther and they burn longer while in flight.
I want the pan flash to do its job and no more, I don't want the pan flash simulating a roman candle fireworks spiting large flaming embers far and wide while only inches from my face, it's scary and flinch creating so I try to minimize the pan flash to as small as possible to ensure the rifle will fire. I use a laser beam like concentration on aiming to reduce the distracting pan flash.

 

[bldtrailer]

file the outside of the

spring and reshape the "foot" . replacing the washer is a plus to the goal is to balance the opening of the frizzen so you doesn't smash the flints ,but not bouncing back. filing/reshaping and polishing the foot lets it open wider, lets you use a larger flint

 

[bldtrailer]

you can make a pressure flaker with an antler point and heavy copper wire or copper nail(use hot melt glue so you can replace as needed). the leather pad on wood helps steady the flint while pressure flaking (I like to put flat side up to flake a new edge ) the angel on leather help . you flake with the antler point and or the copper(safty glasses when flaking knapping, razer sharp mirco flakes are no fun in wrong place)

 

[hanshi]

Every lock/gun is an individual and must be allowed to choose the flint position that works. I use nothing but leather in the **** and position the flint to (align with the frizzen and by the book) scrape down the frizzen the best as I can eyeball it. If not satisfactory, I make adjustments. This is what makes flintlock guns so interesting. On a percussion there's nothing much to adjust.

 

[M. De Land]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half ****. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

One of the things to do (to see if you have good flint to frizzen contact) is to coat the frizzen with some soot from a shack match or burning candle then cycle the lock as you normally would, as if loaded. The soot will show where the flint in contacting the frizzen on it's arc and if it is bouncing. You want an even scrape without bouncing/skipping along the face of the frizzen. If there are skips in the soot then you have some spring balancing or **** angle bending to work on.

 

[Greenjoytj]

What is the size scale in the photo in post #23?

 

[bldtrailer]

 

[Shadowalker164]

I’m with you Pilgrim, waiting for my first flintlock kit. Feeling a tad like a bride on her wedding night. Wondering What have I gotten myself into?

 

[TDM]

I am following this thread. I'm completing my first flintlock (Kibler SMR) and need to learn the skills that go with the rifle.

You got that right, lots of tips and tricks to learn! I'm watching too.

 

[Pilgrim]

You got that right, lots of tips and tricks to learn! I'm watching too.

TDM and Shadowalker164 we will get it figured out with the help of some fine folks on this forum willing to answer questions.

Thank you
TerryC

 

[EC121]

Dark orange sparks are not hot enough for reliable ignition. Bright orange or yellow sparks that hit the pan and bounce out are much better. With a good flint my locks sometimes will make sparks that fall almost to the floor before they go out when snapped on an empty pan. With those dark orange sparks does the lock fire the prime reliably and quickly? If so you are good, if not that is another place to look.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

I'm no expert but I'll drop my limited experience.
I was instructed to make sure the tip of the flint rests centered over the pan when at rest.
Second, pull back the hammer to half **** and lower the frizzen so it covers the pan. The flint should not touch the frizzen and should point at the frizzen face at or above the half way mark up the frizzen face.
Third, you should be able to release the hammer from half **** and lower it slightly while holding it. With your other hand raise the frizzen up slightly and you should get a mostly straight line between the flint and frizzen base.
That should get you a long strike/scrape to make sparks and ensure the frizzen isn't blocking them from dropping into the pan while avoiding smashing flints.
The caviot is that individual lock may have varied geometry so this set up won't be quite identical between locks of different style/geometry.

 

[DuncNZ]

and never drop the **** without a rock in it.

A suitable piece of wood can act as a substitute for a flint while you are tuning the lock and trigger and doesn't wear away the steel (frizzen)

 

[DuncNZ]

There is a lot of difference in the equipment needed to sharpen a flint and that needed to nap a flint from a piece of suitable rock or resize a oversized flint .

 

[Shadowalker164]

TDM and Shadowalker164 we will get it figured out with the help of some fine folks on this forum willing to answer questions.

Thank you

TerryC

Was it Patrick Henry who said “ hang together or surely hang separately “ made sense then, makes sense now

 

[Pilgrim]

There is a lot of difference in the equipment needed to sharpen a flint and that needed to nap a flint from a piece of suitable rock or resize a oversized flint .

I never thought about it, but this sounds very true. It's my first rodeo with a flintlock, and I have already been thrown a few times.

Respectfully
TerryC

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half ****. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

It's a personal preference. I place mine in the jaws flat side down. Semper Fi.