Proper luster of metal parts?

[The Appalachian]

Sandpaper was patented in 1834, so when building my 18th century guns I don't go past a clean, one direction, file finish. If the situation arises to use sandpaper, then I use a half worn piece of 80 grit in the same one direction finish, and that very well mimics a file finish.

I think a lot of people go crazy overboard thinking they're doing it right. The old ones were really good with a file, and that's as far as they went because that's all they pretty much had.

 

[Ballshooter]

I don't like bright brass so on my kibler colonial, I just used files then aged with viniger, salt and water for four days.

 

[Birddog1911]

Man, I'm really starting to think I went way to far with 2000 grit wet on a pistol barrel.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
What is overlooked is that metal was often burnished with a polished steel rod in the old days. The metal was coarse filed, then fine filed, and then often scraped just like wood. Then it was burnished or if a higher polish was required, the piece was polished with stones and oil, and then emery powder, rottenstone, or pumice rubbed on with sticks dipped in oil. Below is a link to a tutorial for making a one-piece muzzle cap by Rich Pierce and Tom Curran but if you scroll down, you will see where Rich files, scrapes and burnishes the cap.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9.0
Sandpaper, which was garnet paper with a heavy paper backing, was available in the mid-18th century and was imported and sold in America. It was heavy, stiff, and expensive, and was likely of most value to furniture makers. Burnishing work hardens the surface of silver and brass leaving a hard shiny surface that is hard to copy any other way. To simulate that finish, the best option is to use steel wool for a final burnish.

dave

 

[J2shortt]

I have an old Sears zouave 58 I saved from the scrap heap. Somehow it ended up as evidence in a criminal case. Anyways the previous owners must've stored it in a humid barn., Cus when I got it, it was in TERRIBLE condition. I'll need a new barrel for sure. Anyways, I've been cleaning and polishing all the metal bits. Here are some before and afters.
I started off with sand paper and then tried steel wool. Worked pretty good. I then just put it all in my reloading tumbler with steel pins. Afterwards I used a buffing wheel with some flitz on my hand drill. Took the parts to a highirror polish. Since that looked so nice I did that to all the small metal parts. Going to be a good looking rifle once I replace a few parts. The lock was atrocious.

 

[J2shortt]

I also found varying the pressure with my hand files gave different finishes and levels of "polish"

 

[Johnny Tremain]

but we have no idea what they actually looked and felt like 200-250 years ago.

The guns of the 70s were copies of pretty display rifles given to rich folk.
Thats why they all looked show pieces. The had little or none field time.
We working folk had iron, it was rusted and polished.

There is enough old ones to tell the story. Jess Melot made it his mission to make the most authentic He could. He inspected and measured rifles in many states.

The history is there, you just have to dig it up.

 

[Artificer]

Sandpaper, which was garnet paper with a heavy paper backing, was available in the mid-18th century and was imported and sold in America. It was heavy, stiff, and expensive, and was likely of most value to furniture makers. Burnishing work hardens the surface of silver and brass leaving a hard shiny surface that is hard to copy any other way. To simulate that finish, the best option is to use steel wool for a final burnish.

dave

We may be referring to the same or maybe something different, but they also had what was called "Glass Paper" that used crushed grass as the abrasive glued to the heavy paper backing. It was mostly used by fine furniture makers, but sometimes was used on highly polished stocks in Philadelphia and some other places.

However, the burnishing Dave talks about is a great tip for a period correct polish.

Gus

 

[ZUG]

Alright... since everyone pretty much told me to "do whatever I want" I did what I wanted...

And since the 800 grit burnished with steel wool felt right to me, I stayed with that but added a step of buffing with green Scotch Brite.

I've attached the results of my polishing and patina-ing. I originally wanted to leave everything bright, but since the gun will otherwise be pretty plain (and my wife like the experiments I did with the brass black) I thought I'd go that way. I'll treat the barrel with the brass black as well.

Any and all criticisms are welcome; it's just metal, it doesn't have feelings and polishing it again won't hurt.

My thoughts:
The trigger guard looks the best. The side plate doesn't want to stay oxidized; since it was machined I'm guessing it was a different flavor of brass.
The lock turned out OK, but the frizzen was harder than a coffin nail all the way through and not just on the face, so I'm going to have to live with the casting imperfections.

I LOVE the way you finished those parts -- in fact I am going to use your method on my present build. I may only go up to 400 grit on the brass maybe 600 but will finish it off with 4/0 steel wool. I like a steel wool finish.

 

[Erzulis boat]

This is a Snaphaunce that I built around 10 years ago. I just shoot it, and wipe it down. It started "armory bright" and has just mellowed over time. There is no need to artificially age anything, just use it.

Even the wood has mellowed on it's own.

Why try to fake it?

 

[waksupi]

Man, I'm really starting to think I went way to far with 2000 grit wet on a pistol barrel.

Definitely, if you want a lasting browning or bluing to stay on it.

 

[DuncNZ]

I just wipe down the brass with a cleaning patch with fired black powder residue on it , or a damp cloth with some black powder on it , this gives brass mellow yellow /brown glow . , not too shiny not blackened . I just buff it with my hands