Pulled the trigger.

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Barrel pinned. I only draw filed the top five flats. The bottom 3 won't be seen. Next I'll rewatch the videos kibler has on YouTube for the next step.
 

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For the bark inclusion, if there's a void, use medium brown CA glue (basically a super glue) and spray with CA glue accelerator. Just build it up in layers. It will set in a second or two with the accelerator. I get mine at the Woodcraft store.
Do I want ro sand to 220 then apply the brown CA glue and CA accelerator? Or do the CA glue and CA accelerator before even starting to sand? I'm guessing with the tannic acid and iron nitrate this should blend in at least I'm think still be visible but just add character.
 
Do I want ro sand to 220 then apply the brown CA glue and CA accelerator? Or do the CA glue and CA accelerator before even starting to sand? I'm guessing with the tannic acid and iron nitrate this should blend in at least I'm think still be visible but just add character.
You can do it before sanding. If it's high, you will sand it smooth when finishing.
 
Pinned the ramrod tip on. Have an issue with run out that caught my sand paper. I was sanding the ram rod tampered to fit in the stock hole.

My question. Is at least I'm thinking fill the tiny run out with CA glue or I have clear thin epoxy. Raining today so working on my gun
Edit. Where or what size to elong my trunioins holes on my barrel.
TIA
 

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Took my gun out. To lee kay public shooting range. Didn't have long to shoot. I had VA Dr ordered labs so at least I'm on paper. One of my patches stuck in the target. Last group was 40 grains powder pillow ticking .310 ball. Hopefully next week start load work. I'm loving this rifle.
 

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Jim shows how to fit the ram rod on a YouTube video. I a long taper in the ram rod until it fit. No need to expand ramrod hole in the stock. The cracked one I went ahead and finished for practice. The new one showed up yesterday. I've installed the new tip. Only still needs to be sand taper in the new one. I'll post pics either today or tomorrow how I do it. And see if I can find a link how kibler videoed it.
I discovered the ram rod blanks I ordered from Kibler were way too big to fit the SMR pipes. Please let us know how your new rod fits.
 
Here is the video on the ramrod from Jim kiblers longrifles. About half way through he sands the ramrod because it was little tight.

Hope this helps. I can't wait to go shoot this again.


 
After I drill the hole I use a little larger drill bit to flange both holes. Next I'll trim the finish nail or in this case I'm using a piece from left over wire pin stock from my kit. I trim it close and then peen both sides of the wire. Jim shows it better than I can explain.



When that's all done I polish the ramrod tip and blend in the pin. I use a pencil to mark where the ramrod stops at the entry pipe. I sand wood tothe ramrod tip and sand in long strokes to tapper the ram rod. I check then sand until it goes in all the way. I used 120 grit sand paper followed to 220 then 320. From the original that had run out. I found finishing it with tannic acid and iron nitrate the wood did expand and I had to sand more. Since I had to order a replacement uses it to practice. I hope this helps
I discovered the ram rod blanks I ordered from Kibler were way too big to fit the SMR pipes. Please let us know how your new rod fits.
 

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... About half way through he sands the ramrod because it was little tight.
Well, the ones I got were more than a little tight. More like an eighth of an inch oversize. I ordered them off the SMR parts page, so I just assumed they were right for the SMR pipes. Then put them aside for six weeks. Yesterday I tried to "resize" them to fit the SMR pipes, and it's quite a herculean task to round down the ones I got to fit. Sanding? No. Filing? No. Rasping? Slow progress. This tough wood is great for ramrods, but not so much for reducing their size. I'm thinking I was sent the wrong ramrod blanks. Six weeks down the road I guess I'm stuck with trying to make do. If I reorder, I get an oversize shipping fee.
 

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