Clovis did not know why my Oehler 35P gave those erroneous readings. He suggested shooting with different light. I did today, and that cured the problem after it developed again. I shot at a different angle to the sun, which was behind my bench. Went back to using up that old (1980 and 1995 blended) Pyrodex RS in my .58 flintlock. It is easy to get it to fire normally, but this stuff is hard on patches. I used 120 grains plus about 10 grains of Goex 2F booster and 3 grains of Goex 4F priming powder. Used a dry 7/8" wool (sweater) overpowder wad, then red 10 ounce canvas from Wal Mart. Makes finding the patches much easier! But I had to hammer the short starter (with a hammer!) to start the ball. Still blew the patch. Tried 3 of those, then to .022 yellow something or other from Wal Mart, same results. Then to .018 pillow ticking, which worked better. Had two hangfires at first, but cured that. Picked the vent, primed with a 3 grain valve (Goex 4F) and tipped some of that powder into the flash hole, and added 3 more grains to the pan. Worked perfectly. I learned this techinique working with black powder, so it is not unique to Pyrodex. Had to do that with Swiss 1 1/2 and 2 in this patent breech flint. Fired 8 shots, had 6 good patches, they averaged 1776 fps.
Next I went to Triple 7 2F and worked down to 90 grains (plus the 10 grain Goex 2F boost) to get 1810 fps velocity. Fired 14 shots, with no hangfires or flashes in the pan. Last three shots on my 100 yard target went into 1.1".
So, 22 shots of old Pyrodex RS and Triple 7 2F (from 2001, I think) fired normally with no flashes in the pan, after I cured the hangfire problem (which is a problem of the patent breech). It is easy to get this stuff to fire normally, but these heavy charges require a thick, tough patch (I don't know what that would be), and a good overpowder wad. I think split leather like I used before or a 1/8" cardboard wad might work well.