Question about stock finish

[1950DAVE]

I might add that with oil finishes you do not have to deal with drips and runs. Catalyzed finishes are near impervious to sandpaper once cured. Stripping is really a headache. A mistake with a surface finish can lead to problems with sanding thru to bare wood or even worse. Patience and care with any finish is the key.
Dave

 

[deerstalkert]

[/QUOTE]

Like you I am also looking for a replacement and have found none that work as well.

a sorta close is Laurel mountain "nut brown"

 

[NorthFork]

@deerstalkert

Thanks!

 

[Sam squanch]

Some stocks WERE painted!

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Colonial smiths used varnish. Oil based finishes with driers added. They made their own, and I’d imagine they were linseed oil based. These guys could not wait a year for a finish to dry.
They had to make a living.

Here's useful info on traditional finish.
https://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol5no2/articles/mbo52-1.shtmlIsn't the traditions stock beech and not walnut or maple? Beech will take finish traditional or not in a different way than traditional stock woods. Finish will build up on the surface and not penetrate..

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Everyone suggesting their versions of finish, let us see your work. Opinions and suggestions without photos of the results are not very valuable in my opinion.

dave

 

[satwel]

Many years ago the boiled linseed oil available in hardware stores contained lead which was added to speed drying. The BLO you buy today no longer contains lead so it takes forever to dry. Some say it never completely dries. Also the resulting finish is neither waterproof or durable.

There are many readily available stock finishes that are far superior to BLO. Chamber's Oil is my current favorite. It is easy to apply and produces a low-luster, durable finish. Over the years I have also used the following finishes with success:

Linspeed
True Oil
Permalyn

Springfield Armory ran into problems using BLO on early production M1 Garand rifle stocks so they switched to tongue oil. Recently I have started experimenting with tongue oil finishes out of curiosity but I'm not sure they'll out perform Chamber's Oil.

 

[Sam squanch]

Tongue oil........sounds like a product for politicians and lawyers

 

[rusty]

I like tung oil

 

[1950DAVE]

BLO does dry!
Dave

 

[Col. Batguano]

Here we go again!

 

[Art Caputo]

I have used BLO and found that, while a nice finish can be produced, unless attention is paid to keeping the stock well waxed, BLO can absorb water. I prefer a blend of Linseed with added driers and hardeners such as TOTW Original Oil or the Chambers Oil finish. They ook just as good, can easily be touched up if necessary, and provide excellent protection from moisture. IMO.

 

[fjrdoc]

I read Eric Kettenberg's article on Muzzleblasts. I followed his instructions and made my own BLO with white lead. I then made his basic brown varnish from his recipe using rosin, gum benzoin and turpentine. I'm currently using it to give a unmentionable 1897 pump shotgun a more traditional look. The finish that was on the shotgun looked like plastic and was very out of place. The varnish works and I love the color but it is a slow process. A little goes a long way.

 

[Reno]

I have mixed my own using BLO as a start, FIrst I used alcohol and a mix, I used that on some modern firearms and it worked well. I began using it on muzzleloaders and got good results. Nice thing is it dries fast but will take multiple coats. Then I have used BLO and have added Japan Drier, That is getting more difficult to find ,but any good paint and wallpaper store should have it. That has also produced good results and dries faster. I've used waxes and some of the modern produced stuff and they all work and they all seem to have good results So it really becomes personal preference. If you do what you need to do with BLO it can produce great results, But does take some time, and further care using waxes etc.. It is really no different from taking care of the barrel or lock or other parts. The stock is just as important as the metal parts are.

 

[Reno]

By the way you have to shake the bottle up real good if you mix your own stuff.

 

[Reno]

One additional thought; you can look up in some of the professional wood working sites or catalogs and find the basic elements to make your own finishes such as shellac and varnish. They do require heating,

 

[springfield art]

I am currently using spar varnish, mineral spirits, and a dash of japan dryer. Apply thin coats with small pieces of lint free cloth. Scuff the buggers off with burgundy scotch brite between coats.

The truth is most any finish that dries thoroughly will work. The key is to use thin coats. Don't goop it up.

I would not use modern thick spray on catalyzed finishes on a ML. I would not use anything water based. Shellac is not good. Over the years I have seen lots of crazy stuff. The worst was used engine oil. The stock was black, stank, and the wood was ruined. Never use any type of mineral oil on a stock.

Lacquer is used a lot on furniture and cheap factory guns. IT is not bad as filler coat. Use Deft sanding sealer. Sand between coats. When the grain is filled use the top coat of your choice.

BLO takes forever to dry. You can add japan dryer. It just does not have any special qualities that make it worth using. For maintenance, If you want to put a bit of BLO on an already finished stock I won't argue. It look nice and smells good. After the BLO I suggest some paste wax.

Used Engine Oil??? What the "F"!?

 

[springfield art]

I am currently using spar varnish, mineral spirits, and a dash of japan dryer. Apply thin coats with small pieces of lint free cloth. Scuff the buggers off with burgundy scotch brite between coats.

The truth is most any finish that dries thoroughly will work. The key is to use thin coats. Don't goop it up.

I would not use modern thick spray on catalyzed finishes on a ML. I would not use anything water based. Shellac is not good. Over the years I have seen lots of crazy stuff. The worst was used engine oil. The stock was black, stank, and the wood was ruined. Never use any type of mineral oil on a stock.

Lacquer is used a lot on furniture and cheap factory guns. IT is not bad as filler coat. Use Deft sanding sealer. Sand between coats. When the grain is filled use the top coat of your choice.

BLO takes forever to dry. You can add japan dryer. It just does not have any special qualities that make it worth using. For maintenance, If you want to put a bit of BLO on an already finished stock I won't argue. It look nice and smells good. After the BLO I suggest some paste wax.

The old military arsenals used BLO. There's a big difference, as we can see, between that mass production method and the small individual gunmakers in the 18th & 19th Century. The spray-on finishes that the Italian makers use on repros is often stripped and replaced by end-users and reenactors, for authenticity.

 

[springfield art]

Colonial smiths used varnish. Oil based finishes with driers added. They made their own, and I’d imagine they were linseed oil based. These guys could not wait a year for a finish to dry.
They had to make a living.

Yes. Big difference between arsenals and colonial smiths, you're right!

 

[Vaino]

Most builders have their "pet" stock finish and I have mine.....the stock is impervious to moisture , it wears well and has a very low sheen. Actually looks like there isn't any finish on the stock.

After the stain is dry { 1-3 Dangler stains are used}, the excess unabsorbed stain is removed w/ 0000 steel wool. The first "stain" always used is the orange toner which imparts a yellow undertone , Then the reddish brown and dark brown stains are applied....the Bucks County LRs use the reddish brown and the Lancasters the dark brown.

Actually my "finish" is 2 different finishes and 2 coats of each are applied. The first finish is LMF sealer and 2 wipe on/ wipe off coats w/ a soak in time of 10-15 mins w/ a complete dry between coats. The unabsorbed LMF is removed w/ 0000 steel wool.

The next finish is Wahkon Bay Trucoat which is applied sparingly w/ the fingers w/ a complete dry between the 2 coats. When fully dry, the finish is at first a little shiny but then turns dull.....a couple of mins rubbing w/ a fluffy towel brings out some sheen. Total time to finish the stock on a LR is 36 hrs. .....Fred