Question about Wakhon Bay Tru-Blue

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Hey guys,

First time using Wakhon Bay Tru-Blue. Always used LMF in the past.

On the bottle of Tru-Blue it says to card prior to boiling. Pretty much every other slow rust blue that I'm aware of, has you boil, then card.

I realize these are manufacturers directions, it just seems odd. Tested it both ways on some scrap pcs. It works both ways, and the color is very nice. Just want to make sure i am doing it the best way. Big difference between the barrel and some small scrap pieces. Anyone have experience with this product and can you share how you used it. Did you card first then boil, or vice versa.

Thank you,
Jim
 
I did my trade gun barrel in a humidity box and after several applications it leaves a very nicely textured surface that looks great on a NW trade gun.
 
Hey guys,

First time using Wakhon Bay Tru-Blue. Always used LMF in the past.

On the bottle of Tru-Blue it says to card prior to boiling. Pretty much every other slow rust blue that I'm aware of, has you boil, then card.

I realize these are manufacturers directions, it just seems odd. Tested it both ways on some scrap pcs. It works both ways, and the color is very nice. Just want to make sure i am doing it the best way. Big difference between the barrel and some small scrap pieces. Anyone have experience with this product and can you share how you used it. Did you card first then boil, or vice versa.

Thank you,
Jim
I’ve used wakon bays true brown and blue for ten plus years. They are identical products as far as I know differing only in procedure. I simply rust and card then reapply the reagent, then repeat until the barrel pretty much stops rusting. Rest it a couple of days carding as needed. Then boil in tap water and neutralize with diesel engine oil while hot. Hang muzzle down for a few minutes then oil the bore. I seldom have much issue with after rust. Winding up with a pleasing blue black finish I call a boiled brown. BJH
 
I’ve used wakon bays true brown and blue for ten plus years. They are identical products as far as I know differing only in procedure. I simply rust and card then reapply the reagent, then repeat until the barrel pretty much stops rusting. Rest it a couple of days carding as needed. Then boil in tap water and neutralize with diesel engine oil while hot. Hang muzzle down for a few minutes then oil the bore. I seldom have much issue with after rust. Winding up with a pleasing blue black finish I call a boiled brown. BJH
Good deal, thanks for the advice. I am in process with it now. I've been boiling every cycle right now. I starting using an acid brush for applying on advice from folks at the Log Cabin Shop. This seems to helping to get a more even rust. I was using a cotton ball to apply. The brush seems work better. When you say "rest it" a couple days. What am I looking for at that point
Thanks again,
Jim
 
Sorry for the delayed response. I just got home from CN ice fishing.

No I dont clean and degress between applications. Should be no need to. I wear latex gloves when handling.

Fleener
 
Good deal, thanks for the advice. I am in process with it now. I've been boiling every cycle right now. I starting using an acid brush for applying on advice from folks at the Log Cabin Shop. This seems to helping to get a more even rust. I was using a cotton ball to apply. The brush seems work better. When you say "rest it" a couple days. What am I looking for at that point
Thanks again,
Jim
The “rest” will allow for some after rusting to be carded off befor the final boil. I’ve also found there’s a limit to the number of treatments after which there is not much rusting happening. BJH
 


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