Question: Lee molds

[jbtusa]

After a hiatus of 20 years from BP, I have rediscovered the addiction and have found my old round ball molds. My question is how to properly use some Lee aluminum round ball molds. I have a finicky Lee .32 single cavity mold. How do I protect the mold from galling by the sprue plate? I think that I remember touching some beeswax to the top of the mold to lubrcate the sprue plate but I could be wrong. Any help appreciated!

 

[ord sgt]

I use a mould prep made by Rapine. It has graphite suspended in a quick drying solution. Coat the cavity and smear some under the sprue cutter and on top of the mould itself. Also use it on the joining tabs. But that is on a .58 calibre 500 grain Minie bullet.

 

[R.M.]

I've used a graphite spray from NAPA. You can get it on the cavity surfaces and it doesn't do any harm.

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Definately use some kind of lube, bullet lube will work, near the pivot screw of the sprue plate. Also use it in the v-groove where the mold blocks line up.

To close the mold, set it on a flat surface and squeeze the handles. This eliminates the blocks hitting each other while not lined up.

Lee molds also benefit from smoking the cavities with a stick match to stop bullets from wrinkling. GW

 

[smallmouth]

I want to say amen to what Grey Wiskers just said. Smoking the inner cavity with a stick match and then a little lube at pts. mentioned. I like to use a heat activated lube such as made for RCBS for a pistol bullet lubing and sizing press. Key word would be sparing use -- just a little goes a l o . . o . . . g way! I've had good luck with Lee molds. Some guys really hate them, however. I have bought them because of the price compared to other makers steel molds. BTW good luck you have a lot of time to make up for!

Sirjohn

 

[bingo1952]

I use a lot of Lee moulds for the same reason plus one other. At their price point if I get a little careless or it decides to go on the fritz for whatever reason they are easily, cheaply, and quickly replaced.

 

[cowpoke1955]

I use nothing, but Lee molds. I've never used any special prep on them. Figured if anything goes wrong they are cheap enough to replace. After 25 years, haven't had to replace one yet :thumbsup:

 

[bingo1952]

The only ones that have ever given me any problems are their minie ball molds. The way the base pin is setup is weak and prone to wear on the radiused ring that centers the base pin.

 

[bwhoffman]

I was given a tube of breech plug lube, intended for the new type of so called muzzle loader guns.

tried it on my LEE molds as a hinge/pivot/plate lube and have had nothing but great success with it
It handles heat well! a little dab will do ya!

 

[mazo kid]

Years ago I also thought beeswax was the way to go, but now find that it just makes a scorched on mess. Yes, graphite does work, rubbing a large carpenter pencil on the bottom of the sprue plate and locating pins also is good. Lately, I have been using a lube called Bull Plate lube and it works great not only on aluminum moulds, but iron and brass ones as well.

 

[MSW]

i used the carpenter's pencil trick, too, but most of my Lee molds don't have it and don't need it. they've worked great for decades.

 

[docjim]

1st off I would run a fine file or diamond hone under the sprue plate to remove any burrs.... Then use a good high temp grease, maybe.
All I have ever done is polish the bottom of the plate & then use a candle to coat the inside of the mold w/ soot. I prefer candle soot cause it's a bit slicker than match soot. I just do it once before I start casting and the balls/bullets fall right out w/ a tap. Repeat if they start to stick... I ordered some mold release once but it was B/O'd & I have just done without since.
Never had a galling problem. DOC