Well F-B: I'll offer what little advice I have. I think there were two general types, those made in St. Louis and local NDN made. On the St. Louis type bag I would say black leather or dark brown and smooth bark tanned leather. 3-4 oz leather at Tandy Leather would be about right. Most bags were square with maybe a little curve at the bottom corners. It could all be a single piece or two to three pieces. I think most were probably 2 piece. The front piece was the size of the compartment, the back piece was longer and the extra length got folded over the top as a flap. Some times a flap had a button or thong to keep it closed. The weight of the flap could be increased with a metal conch or something similar. In many cases the flap was very long, extending to the bottom of the bag or beyond and had enough weight in itself to hold it down.
The front and back pieces were placed right side out on top of each other and sewn using a "shoestring method- put a needle on each end and run half the line through the first hole and then each needle goes through each hole- from opposite sides- this creates a continuous row of stitches. Linen thread was deemed stronger than cotton thread and waxed linen thread was used. I have seen rawhide thongs or lace and this was a running stitch- in one hole and out the next. It was NOT wrapped around the edge or whipped stitched. The smooth bags seldom had much fringe. Hanson, at the MTF, says most bags did NOT include an adjustment buckle but there were items suspended from the strap- small tools, etc.
If a pillow ticking type lining was added, there would be a decorative figure in the front panel- an elk, etc. and this stitching helped hold the lining in place. Now a days you could use rubber cement- which bonds the lining to the leather and increases the overall strength, however lined bags were not common but rare.
The NDN type would often be soft brain tan with fringe along the bottom. The strap could be leather or braided horsehair, etc. Sinew was used. Sinew is easy, or should I say EASY to use. I find it EASIER to use than artificial sinew so IMHO never use the fake stuff. A huge supply of sinew can be brought from outfits like Crazy Crow for a small sum- maybe $7-10. The back sinew is longer and yields longer threads. With sinew, you make the hole with an awl. You moisten MOST of the thread but leave one end hard- that hard end is stiff enough to feed through a hole made with an awl. I think a whip finish was used most with sinew and it is like the plastic gimp used by kids in summer camp, when you get to the end of one section just lay it down along the seem/edge and start a new piece. The tail end of the new piece is also laid down along the edge and the first 3 or 4 wraps of the new section cover the ends of its tag AND the end of the prior section, at the same time. A real fast way to sew.
In the east a lot of bags were of better quality- cut out designs on the front panel with a different color leather backing, scalloped edges, bound and covered edges, a lot of cloth woven straps.
This is real basic info, the subject is extensive. You can sew "inside out" so the panels pop apart and create a more roomy interior. You can add a gusset, you can- with soft leather, have a slightly small front panel- sort of like the toe/vamp on a moccasin.
Which kind do I like best? I like both. On a "hard" smooth leather I might wear my horn on the other side so I don't hear it knocking against the bag while I walk. On a soft, brain tan, the soft leather and horn nestle quickly together and are suited for carrying both on the same side. On a hard bag, you can also suspend a horn from the straps, above the bag. As I said, endless variety.
The front and back pieces were placed right side out on top of each other and sewn using a "shoestring method- put a needle on each end and run half the line through the first hole and then each needle goes through each hole- from opposite sides- this creates a continuous row of stitches. Linen thread was deemed stronger than cotton thread and waxed linen thread was used. I have seen rawhide thongs or lace and this was a running stitch- in one hole and out the next. It was NOT wrapped around the edge or whipped stitched. The smooth bags seldom had much fringe. Hanson, at the MTF, says most bags did NOT include an adjustment buckle but there were items suspended from the strap- small tools, etc.
If a pillow ticking type lining was added, there would be a decorative figure in the front panel- an elk, etc. and this stitching helped hold the lining in place. Now a days you could use rubber cement- which bonds the lining to the leather and increases the overall strength, however lined bags were not common but rare.
The NDN type would often be soft brain tan with fringe along the bottom. The strap could be leather or braided horsehair, etc. Sinew was used. Sinew is easy, or should I say EASY to use. I find it EASIER to use than artificial sinew so IMHO never use the fake stuff. A huge supply of sinew can be brought from outfits like Crazy Crow for a small sum- maybe $7-10. The back sinew is longer and yields longer threads. With sinew, you make the hole with an awl. You moisten MOST of the thread but leave one end hard- that hard end is stiff enough to feed through a hole made with an awl. I think a whip finish was used most with sinew and it is like the plastic gimp used by kids in summer camp, when you get to the end of one section just lay it down along the seem/edge and start a new piece. The tail end of the new piece is also laid down along the edge and the first 3 or 4 wraps of the new section cover the ends of its tag AND the end of the prior section, at the same time. A real fast way to sew.
In the east a lot of bags were of better quality- cut out designs on the front panel with a different color leather backing, scalloped edges, bound and covered edges, a lot of cloth woven straps.
This is real basic info, the subject is extensive. You can sew "inside out" so the panels pop apart and create a more roomy interior. You can add a gusset, you can- with soft leather, have a slightly small front panel- sort of like the toe/vamp on a moccasin.
Which kind do I like best? I like both. On a "hard" smooth leather I might wear my horn on the other side so I don't hear it knocking against the bag while I walk. On a soft, brain tan, the soft leather and horn nestle quickly together and are suited for carrying both on the same side. On a hard bag, you can also suspend a horn from the straps, above the bag. As I said, endless variety.
