Questions for you leather workers

[Capt. Fred]

Hi Guys, I've got a couple of questions regarding leather work.

I've just made a little leather hunting pouch. Nothing special, I just wanted something kind of traditional looking to carry a few things in while hunting. I'll post some pics when done.

Some background and question one: When I've made sheaths for my knives I shrink them to fit the individual knife. After they soak in water they get real stiff once shrunk around the knife and dried. I don't mind that with a sheath but I'd like this bag to be soft.

I've soaked it to be able to turn it right side out and now I'm worried it will be stiff as a board when it dries. It is real thin leather (I think 2-3 OZ) It has been stained with Fiebings (sp?) What is the best method to get it softened back up?

Question 2: I've noticed on my sheaths that if they get wet then a little bit of dye bleeds out. I'm worried about this happening with this bag too. Is there something I can put on leather that will "fix" the dye in place to keep it from bleeding?

Big thanks.

Ken

 

[omarick1948]

SWAMPY, would be the expert to give you the answer!

 

[paulvallandigham]

Put it in your dryer on " COOL" with some old gym shoes and tennis balls to bang around with the bag for an hour or so. That should get it soft again. Con't go heating that leather UP, if you want to continue with SWMBO! :rotf: :hmm: :thumbsup:

If you still find any stiff spots, use Neetsfoot oil on the leather to help soften it further. DON'T put the oil on the leather before it goes into the dryer. The oil will get all over the dryer, and then go onto other clothes that are put in the dryer next!

A little hand rubbing over a stick end( The butt of a hammer, or tomahawk, held in a vise, works) will soften any hard spot, fairly quickly. :hmm:

 

[MSW]

Paul's suggestion to get the leather soft is a good one... You shouldn't have too much trouble getting 2-3 oz leather to soften up. As regards the 'bleeding,' this could be any one of a number of problems, but i suspect that if you do the neatsfoot oil (after the dryer), things may improve.

Good luck with your project!

 

[necchi]

A little hand rubbing over a stick end( The butt of a hammer, or tomahawk, held in a vise, works) will soften any hard spot, fairly quickly. :hmm:

That's the trick, working it back and forth, you can just grab some of the leather in your hands and kind of roll it against it's self bit by bit too. It takes some pressure and vigorus work but it'll come soft by "working it".

I've used natural walnut stain alot and that will bleed if wet, I treat sheath's and pouches with "Sno-Seal", it's a waterproofing treatment and stop's the bleeding.

 

[LaBonte]

Anytime you get leather this wet you need to re-condition it - a light coat or two of extra virgin olive oil, neatsfoot oil, or Lexol will do the job - remember light coats. Then work it by hand or over a stick to soften - by soft I mean supple when discussing veg tan cow hide as it will never get "soft" like buckskin or elk hide due to it's structure and method of tanning.
As a top coat any of the bees wax based finishes (Sno Seal, Montana Pitch Blend, etc. or make you own mix of beeswax and tallow or lard) will work good or you can use a resin based one like Tan Kote or Bag Kote.

 

[Capt. Fred]

Thanks guys, I love the idea of the dryer on cool to loosen it up. Makes perfect sense. I think I'll do that when Bev is out of the house though. LOL

I've got sno-seal that I use on the sheaths, boots etc. so I'll give that a try on the bag to keep the stain from bleeding.

When I had it in the bucket of water I worked it back and forth quite a bit and that seemed to take some of the stain out of it so I'm hoping the rest is pretty much locked in the cells of the hide.

When I get the straps sewn on I'll take some pics.

 

[rabjr]

Hi Guys, I've got a couple of questions regarding leather work.

I've just made a little leather hunting pouch. Nothing special, I just wanted something kind of traditional looking to carry a few things in while hunting. I'll post some pics when done.

Some background and question one: When I've made sheaths for my knives I shrink them to fit the individual knife. After they soak in water they get real stiff once shrunk around the knife and dried. I don't mind that with a sheath but I'd like this bag to be soft.

I've soaked it to be able to turn it right side out and now I'm worried it will be stiff as a board when it dries. It is real thin leather (I think 2-3 OZ) It has been stained with Fiebings (sp?) What is the best method to get it softened back up?

Question 2: I've noticed on my sheaths that if they get wet then a little bit of dye bleeds out. I'm worried about this happening with this bag too. Is there something I can put on leather that will "fix" the dye in place to keep it from bleeding?

Big thanks.

Ken

Sorry Ken but I generally work with Elk or deer leather unless asked otherwise. They are much softer and easier to work.

I think someone suggested working the leather over a board or something hard? Thats a good way to break down and soften the fibers of hard leather. The will soften the bag up.

 

[Capt. Fred]

Thanks anyways Swampy :thumbsup:

 

[Eric/WV]

After I dye a bag, I usually apply brown or black shoe polish to help seal the dye.

 

[Capt. Fred]

Cool, I've got some of that too. Thanks.

 

[BrownBear]

I've been branded a heretic before, but I see it as practical. I live and play in a really wet climate (120"/yr), so I've had lots of opportunity to "practice" with wet leather.

After dying and softening, I usually treat veg tan with Tandy's low luster leather finish- keep brushing it on till little more will soak up. Then I hit it with a couple of heavy coats of their carnuba wax. The low lustre finish and wax gives it a soft glow I really like.

The leather stiffens a little once the finish is dry, but then I just hand flex it a bunch to resoften it. No more bleeding, and after a long day in the rain it doesn't need much more than drying and a bit of flexing to soften it up again.

If I don't use the Tandy finish, then yeah. Something like snow seal or Heberts boot grease works great, but really darkens the leather. Both work best for waterproofing if you put the bag in a really warm spot for a few hours to keep the gunk soft so it soaks in well, rather than sits on the surface. Retreat about as often and as heavily as you would boots that have been in the rain all day.

 

[rabjr]

Who branded you a heretic?? I'll sic the Canadian's on em! :hmm:

 

[dlpowell]

If unlined. Dye interior and exterior. Dry in sun. Beat against tree to soften and age. Throw in dirt and stomp on it to age a little more.

I don't like new looking leather.

Use hemp thread for stitching.

Avoid brass buckles like the plague.

 

[Capt. Fred]

I'm kind of a card carrying heretic by nature so no problem there. I order stuff from tandy from time to time so I'll get some of that and try it.

Don, I don't like new looking anything so I try to age it out some too. This particular leather I'm using I got on sale at Tandy. I got an e-mail that they had some "seconds" that had some scratches and blemishes on the hides. That sounded like exactly what I would like so I bought 2 hides. They are actually in much better shape than I anticipated so I will do some antiquing to anything I make out of them.

Thanks again guys.

Ken

 

[BrownBear]

Here's a heads up Cap:

If those hides are from the same tannery as the shoulders I bought, experiment with Tandy's Eco-Flo water based dye. It goes on kinda thin, but if you keep sopping it on it soaks in well. I actually prefer it to Fieblings because you can regulate just how much color it takes up, stopping a little transparent so any flaws in the hide really stand out for "antiquing." My favorite color is Java Brown.

Oh, and let it dry 24 hours before applying the finish. You'll get a little color on your applicator, but other than that no bleeding once it's dried.

 

[Capt. Fred]

I like that color. I just looked it up on Tandy's site. I also like the idea of it needing several coats.

When I stain the wood for my knives and rifles I tend to thin the heck out of the LMF stains I use. At least 50/50 and sometimes as much a 5 parts alchohol to 1 part stain. It just gives better control. Takes a little longer but I like the results better.

Thanks again and I'll give it a shot.

Ken

 

[dlpowell]

Tandy has an oil based antique brown that is basically black. Being oil based it doesn't penetrate through the hide. It looks great when applied to both sides of a brown based leather and then "stressed" at the tree and in the dirt. Let's some of the brown base come forward. It just looks "old" real good.

I happen to have Tandys'number one store about 20 miles from me. Been shopping there since early '70s. I pay business prices, about half off. You still got to pick through everything. I just don't trust buying leather unseen or untouched.

I recently made the aquaintance of a gentlemen in Ohio who did brain tanned deer. Bought the last 4 hides he did before he gave it up. Best leather I've ever worked.

 

[omarick1948]

If unlined. Dye interior and exterior. Dry in sun. Beat against tree to soften and age. Throw in dirt and stomp on it to age a little more.

I don't like new looking leather.

Use hemp thread for stitching.

Avoid brass buckles like the plague.

Don, I think I bought a used car from you once!.. :shocked2:

Pre-softening Horse hide = :dead:

 

[Capt. Fred]

Ok, it's done. All I can say is that I'm glad I like the look of home made stuff LOL. :surrender:

It's pretty primitive, but it will fit some balls, patches, flints or caps, ball starter, powder mesure and capper.

The center pocket is sized so it will fit two speed loaders :shocked2: which I like to carry for quick (humane) follow up shots if needed.