questions from a beginner

[outlan22]

first build is a lymans GPR 50cal flinter. stocks all sanded down and ready for stain.
i was wondering if most of you leave the iron furniture {butplate,trigger guard,nose cap,front sight}as is, or do you blue/brown them the same as the barrel?
what type /brand of sealent over top of the stain would you suggest?
should i install or leave out the vent linner when blueing the barrel?
thanks in advance for your time and input to keep a noob from shaking his head later.

chris

 

[bwhoffman]

I did a TC, used birchwood casey walnut stain.itswater based and I cut it with water by about 40%. apply a dap in the barrel channel to get an idea of how it will come out, you can always apply a second and third coat if need be.
I was going after a darker stock and acheived that. I sealled it with 5 coats of true oil, rubbed in by hand and 24 hours between coats. I then let it set and breath for a good ten days and followed itup by rubbing out with burlap several times.
all the brass was fogged in ammonia vapors to dull it up.
this was my approach,.....
now if you want to see a nice GPR, do a search for "old friend".
Scott has put up posts of his gun and all the steps and methods involved. the gun is flat out nice! its worth checking out, and Knowing Scott, he will ring in here and put upa direct link to his gun.

 

[outlan22]

thanks brett, will run a surch for it.

 

[wdbailey]

I used Homer Danglers alcohol based stain which does not raise the grain. Laurel Mountain Forge makes Permalyn sealer and finish. It is excellent. You will have good protection as well as a warm luster like you see on the old guns.
Good Luck
Smoke Eater

 

[FPDoc]

I tried to find "old friend" last night, without success. Perhaps he will put a link in a post.

 

[grey8833]

Outlan:

Ditto on the LMF Permalyn sealer and finish. Puts on a very sturdy finish that is easy to do and looks great. I would also recommend the LMF stains - with a whole bunch of LMF stain thinner added. LMF stains will darken with additional coats, so start thin (light).

Mike F

 

[outlan22]

i found a can of birchwood casey "tru-oil" gun stock finish at wally world. has anyone ever try this or other spray can finnish?

 

[Zonie]

Yes, I use Tru-Oil both in the bottled and spray versions.

I think the spray version is great for coating large areas rapidly (for the first coats on unfinished wood), but it is somewhat thinned to enhance its "sprayability" so it can form runs.

I normally use the bottled kind for wiping on additional coats but if I'm out of it and I have some of the spray I simply spray a little on the rag and apply it.

 

I like several coats of LMF sealer and then a few coats of Tru-Oil rubbed on with the palm of the hand. It gives a permanent water barrier to the stock and is a soft sheen. In photos it will be a glaring shine but in reality it is a satin hand rubbed sheen.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Outlan, FPDoc, and any others who are interested, Here are the links to my GPR build that Brett mentioned:
Lyman in the rough
Lyman in White
Lyman in Gray, an old and trusted friend

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions.

Scott

 

[outlan22]

thanks for the reples guys. i think i will go with the Tru-Oil finnish as i like the lighter end product.

chris