• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Questions on a Verner build

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 22, 2021
Messages
154
Reaction score
73
I'm in the process of filing down a rough (very rough) casting of a Verner trigger guard. Although it's not going to kill me if I'm not 100% authentic, I am still trying to copy it as closely as possible.

So: where the trigger guard goes from vertical to horizontal in the front of the guard, my casting the finial is a "blob" of metal. I can't tell if this is supposed to be rounded, or 1/2 of an octagon. Is there someone with an existing Verner that could post some close up pictures on here of that area for me? Take some shots of the rear portion of the guard as well and from a few angles. Any/all help here will be greatly appreciated.
 
I think it is supposed to be there, from what I was able to find out when I built my A. Verner it was used for a sling swivel. So I left it on the trigger guard.
1635931378419.jpeg
 
Hi,
If you are really serious about building a Verner rifle, buy the CD "Rifles of the Upper Bucks County" KRA 2016 President's Display from the Kentucky Rifle Foundation. They have online purchasing.

dave
 
Nearly all the Bucks County LRs have a TG w/ that feature. Never saw a hole in any of them , so it wasn't used for a sling attachment. .....Fred
BC46-2-LOCK.jpg
 
Here are some pics of a Verner that my friend made some years ago. I guess it may be a contemporary. Hope it helps.
 

Attachments

  • FC5A2AFB-8497-4BC6-BF9E-0DD7738036A6.jpeg
    FC5A2AFB-8497-4BC6-BF9E-0DD7738036A6.jpeg
    54.3 KB
  • 0B078227-5EDD-458C-80CF-7470E19ADA21.jpeg
    0B078227-5EDD-458C-80CF-7470E19ADA21.jpeg
    40.1 KB
  • 9E9611E0-8D76-4601-97DB-F56514C30BBE.jpeg
    9E9611E0-8D76-4601-97DB-F56514C30BBE.jpeg
    60.5 KB
  • 2C35DECA-569D-438A-B6CA-E9D20BD0EA45.jpeg
    2C35DECA-569D-438A-B6CA-E9D20BD0EA45.jpeg
    61.7 KB
  • 08559AB3-467F-455F-877F-71675C9D2CAB.jpeg
    08559AB3-467F-455F-877F-71675C9D2CAB.jpeg
    83.2 KB
  • 7D1D8F04-51E9-4549-B30F-098A588E1910.jpeg
    7D1D8F04-51E9-4549-B30F-098A588E1910.jpeg
    113.5 KB
I got my parts in the mail. I wasn't really happy about the side plate and the toe plate. They were thin and didn't look like any of the A Verner picture that I've seen. So, I decided to try making my own. 1st time in my life I've ever tried any metal working. I'm not happy with my side plate. So, I'm doing that one over. The toe plate isn't authentic either. But, I've been thinking how/where to put a cross on the gun. This seemed perfect for the idea.
 

Attachments

  • 20220127_120018.jpg
    20220127_120018.jpg
    62.7 KB
You will come away with a better side plate by making your own than any pre-made one could be. While both bolt locations can be made to work with the pre-made, the orientation of the rest of the side plate (probably) won't look right.
 
Back
Top