Ramrod battered balls

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Many years ago, I was at Blue Trail Range in Wallingford, Ct., on a weekday . . . .(range near-empty.)

A young man, about three firing points to my right was seemingly “enamored” with two elderly guys about four firing points to my left.

You could tell these two grey-beards had been buddy’s for years and shot ML’s together a lot.

Unfortunately, their loading/shooting procedure left a lot to be desired . . . . .in that they each had a 20-oz. claw hammer in their kit which was used to “POUND the LIVING SCHEIT” out of the ramrod/ball ALL THE WAY DOWN the barrel!

Their targets showed the results of their routine . . . .”shotgun” pattern groups!

When they finally left, I wandered down to the young man and said, “Forget what those guys were doing . . . .ML shooting procedure is MUCH DIFFERENT than what you just witnessed!”
I am a member of a muzzleloading group. We compete about 10 times a year. I have seen many of the very-old old-times use the hammer method to road their rifles. They claim they are using diameter balls the same as their rifling and they cannot load and seat the balls without using a hammer. I can't recall seeing any of them in the winner's circle.
 
I bounce my loading rod on the round ball for one reason. The bounce tells me that the ball is seated on the powder charge. The rod will not bounce if there is an air gap between the ball/patch and the powder.
I don't wipe the barrel between shots, so if there is some fouling, it hinders seating the ball on the powder. Thus, the reason for the bounce.
I heard this at the first club shoot I ever went to. I was eighteen, the men shooting knew their stuff and I followed along.
Let the rod drop and if balls not down it won’t bounce, if solid against the powder a hood bounce.
Coming up on fifty years soon that I’ve done that. Ram home, withdraw about eight to ten inches let go rod bounces
But….
I think it’s an old wives tail. After all the ball could be stuck on a ring of crud and bounce just as well.
Still I do it every shot.
I let the rod fall of its own weight and don’t throw the rod down.
some years ago I was at theSouthwest Rendezvous in Leslie Arkansas. There was a kid there who every time he loaded he threw his rod down bore with a chunk of his arm strength. The rod would rebound almost clear of the gun, and he repeated this several times before he would step up to shoot.
He was a little trip hammer.
He cleaned up in the matches I don’t think I ever shot as well as he was doing
 
I'm still new to black powder shooting and somewhat self-taught; I give firm pressure with my body weight and check my scribe line to verify the seated depth. Seems to me most rods are to light to drive a tightly patched ball any noticeable distance by throwing it down the bore.

I know a ball not seated firmly against the charge can turn your rifle into a pipe bomb, but how far from the charge before that happens ? 1/16" ? 1/8" ? 4" ? Other than poor accuracy , what really happens if the ball is on the powder but not fully seated against compressed powder ? Again still fairly new to BP shooting and very curious by nature..
I don’t know if there is a solid number. I’m sure all of us have shot a ball that wasn’t solidly on the powder and we never knew.
Test to blow a rifle that I’ve read were always several inches off the powder, but the real dramatic is an obstruction in a properly loaded arm.
To get best accuracy the charge need be slightly compressed. And to a consistent amount.
I like to swab often, much of the time between each shot. Doing that you get less of a crud ring and quickly learn the feel.
 
we all see videos of shooters at the bench slamming there metal & wooden ramrods down many times on the lead ball!!
 
If the balls not seated the ramrod won't bounce.

Now that is a dangerous statement, and proven false...in the realm of old wives tales.

A ramrod will bounce on an unseated ball just as easily as a seated one. That's why it is best to use registration marks on the rod, or know how how much of the rod should still be out of the barrel when loading.
 
If any old timers remember the original Fort Sutter ML range in Folsom CA you may recall all the roof columns been pock marked. This from using them as battering rams to seat stubborn loads. Range is long gone and its site has long been buried under the Folsom Outlets Saks 5th Ave store.
 
One trick you might do shooting .58 cal. and bigger bores is run a bore size bronze brush down the bore if needed between shots to remove the ash rings. When this is done , bump the muzzle on a board or chunk of carpet so no damage to the front of the barrel happends. You would be amazed how much ash comes out the muzzle of the barrel. Helps keep the rifle loadable , and keeps the flash hole open longer. Using a damp wiper , makes the ash into goo..
 
I think you have to Elmer Fudd the ball several times while jumping up and down on it, that way you are sure to 'KEEL DA WABBIT!'

But since I like fluffy little wabbits I just push the ball down with a few long even strokes, maybe a slight thump or two if it don't go down smooth, once at the bottom I give a firm thump or two more, check the mark on my rod, it's good.
If I have reached my rod's mark but there is still an air pocket - perhaps I should measure the powder more carefully or check the RB size...

But I am NOT trying to tell those who "HAVE BEEN SHOOTING FOR FIFTY YEARS NOW AIN'T GONNA HAVE NO YAHOOT NOTHING TRY AND TELL ME HOW TO LOAD MY RIFLE!"
Nope, not me, just as I clean my guns my way and load my guns my way, I ain't a gonna try to tell anyone else how to handle theirs....nope, not gonna do it.
....but I don't use any motor oils, window cleaners, or dish soaps on the range either. Just my way...hold the pickles please.
 
Real bullets(lee) aren't that hard to seat in my 50 or 54. I see a lot of YouTube experts bouncing their ramrod off the ball. Why batter the projectile? gunpa
 

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