Ramrod channel issue

[Grenadier1758]

How about a rat tailed file with the tang bent up?

That's what I use.

 

[Cory Joe Stewart]

A rat tail file or a Dremel will not work in the ramrod hole anyway if that is what needs to be enlarged.

Cory Joe Stewart

 

[Eric Krewson]

I was a power duck decoy carver with a Dremel and a Foredom and did very fine detail, it is really about what bit you put in your tool as to how detrimental using such a tool can be, experience plays a huge role as well.

For most folk, don't use one on any exterior parts of your gun that will show.

 

[Zonie]

I was a power duck decoy carver with a Dremel and a Foredom and did very fine detail...

Can't say I've ever heard of a "Power Duck" but I have heard of a Power Squirrel. See?

 

[Kestrel]

Zonie, that pic just MADE MY DAY!!!

 

[Pete G]

Must be too cold to get out the house.

 

[David Coulter]

Hi folks, I’m on an old project, a Chamber’s Pa Fowler. My ramrod became so warped due to neglect that I have to order another. Is it common for the ramrod to need reducing to fit the pipes? My current rod is really tight and that’s without the pipes mounted. I don’t mind a bit of sanding, but I never had to do that with the original or replacement rods for my CVA Mt Rifle. Thanks, dc

 

[Pete G]

Hi folks, I’m on an old project, a Chamber’s Pa Fowler. My ramrod became so warped due to neglect that I have to order another. Is it common for the ramrod to need reducing to fit the pipes? My current rod is really tight and that’s without the pipes mounted. I don’t mind a bit of sanding, but I never had to do that with the original or replacement rods for my CVA Mt Rifle. Thanks, dc

Yes it is.

 

[David Coulter]

Thanks, Pete. Appreciated. Dc

 

[EC121]

A 3/8 ramrod is a press fit in a 3/8 pipe or ramrod hole/channel. It needs to be sanded some or sometimes a lot..

 

[Zonie]

I've found that scraping works as good or better than sanding to reduce the size of a ramrod.
A sharp knife held across the direction of the rod and perpendicular to the wood can remove a surprising amount of material when it's pulled lengthwise back and forth along the rod. Another thing that can be used is a piece of broken window glass. If you use this, I recommend using masking tape to cover all of the edges except the one that will do the scraping.

 

[David Coulter]

Thanks, I was considering that. Now I need to order a new ramrod. I’m trying to straighten the one I have but with little success. Dc

 

[rp77469]

Localized heat from a stove or burner will let you straighten the rod. I've done that with arrows made from arrowwood. IME, arrows need restraightened sometimes, so perhaps a ramrod will too. It should be fairly stable I would think, unless you shoot it out a time or two.

 

[1861colt]

Strange thing about ramrods. I always strove to get a near perfect straight grain ramrod for all customer guns I built, because I've seen some of the old CVA's back in the 70's with their who-knows-what kind of wood for ramrods that had a drift out of the grain and break off like 2 shifting tectonic plates and embed the jagged end in the hand. Not a pretty sight to see in someone I had recently convinced that muzzle loaders are fun. First time I saw this happen, I made him a real hickory rod and made "what-not-to-buy" at the top of the list for newcomers.
My first gun has set in my parents houses in Vancouver, BC (wet climate), Redding, CA and Shadow Hills by L.A.(mild climates). When I was able to beg it's departure from their possession, they brought it up to me in the High Desert of Redmond, Oregon. First thing I pulled out the ramrod to drop it down the barrel to make sure it warn't loaded (I love that ping it makes hitting the end of the plug to show it's all safe). Anyway, after all the climates that gun had been through and untouched for 40 years, the ramrod was still straight.
Using a shard of glass to trim a ramrod down does work well, but I see I don't have one anymore. Let's see, where can I go break a window...

 

[user 34300]

It is expected that the builder will taper the ramrod where it fits inside the stock. Some will drill out or scrape the channel to make a full diameter fit. This is not the "right way" to do it. IF you run into the front lock bolt you have bigger problems. It is much easier and historically corect to taper the rod. Jim Kibler wrote, on another forum, that tapering the rod is an expected part of the build, in answer to my question on this subject.

CVA and TC etc are non traditional rifles.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have a pair of heavy duty scissors. Spread the cutting blades a bit to fit ram rod between and clamp in a bench mounted vise. Shaves them down pretty fast. I have also used a metal drill size plate. They scrape of lots of wood quickly and the round holes keep the ram rod round as you reduce it in size.

 

[Flintandsteel]

A precision tool can turn fine in letting into worm tracks by a simple hard spot in wood grain.
Ive built well over 100 guns from blanks.....you’re asking for trouble with a Dremel.
Besides, a drum sander will have to have a 48” shaft to get to the bottom of a ramrod hole.

 

[David Coulter]

I left the ramrod for my fowler project lay or stand around for a decade and a half til it took on a beautiful bow. I was going to order a new one but took the advice and spent some time at the tea kettle and have almost back to where it should be. A little steam works wonders. Thanks!

 

[Eric Krewson]

I like a paint stripping heat gun for straightening wood arrow shafts and ramrods, I use a piece of aluminum angle as a reflector. I can heat a ramrod to the point I can't touch it in 15 seconds with the reflector.

 

[Rich]

Make sure its not a barrel lug binding the rod.