Ramrod loops w/ 5/32" wood, 4/32" loop, 3/32" pin

[rootnuke]

In my plans they show the ramrod hardware ever so slightly seated ID (inside dimensions) flush with the barrel channel. In other way to say it, the inside dimension of the rr loop would be level with the stock rr channel.

Well jimminy-darn!, how the heckation do I inlet all that into 5/32" of wood between the rr channel and the barrel without busting into the barrel channel.

Ramrod loops 5/32" wood, 4/32" loop, 3/32" pin. Currently I have the rr hardware inlet. but the loops are 1/32" off the grade of the rr channel. I know if I try to go another 1/32" deep I'm gonna see China or worse the bottom of my barrel.

Words of wisdom please. :master:

 

[LSU TIGER]

You will break into the barrel channel on all three pipes. Nothing wrong with that from a historical point, or a structreal point, either. I blacken the tabs with a marker, place in the inlet and scribe where the tab needs to be cut. Thats for cast pipes. For sheet brass pipes, the same method applies, but you have to be careful cutting. For either type of pipe, after inletting, mark the pipe as to position and the muzzle direction. Often a pipe will only fit one way. The best solution is to start making your own, then everything is under your control. Thats the conclusion I came to. :m2c: :results:

 

[rootnuke]

ok,

Sorry and pardon me for getting so wound up. The plan from TOW does not indicate a break in the barrel channel. As a result I took it as no break in the barrel channel. Whenever you add that plus me not wanting to screw up anything it equals me trying to do something that is not possible. I new I must be trying to do something that is not right.

Now I hope I have not filed my RR lug loops to shallow and have enough bite for the pin to hold.

thank you forum

 

[rootnuke]

It describes the RamRod pipe inlet process on page 154 of The Gunsmith of Grenville County. DUH!

 

[Ohio Joe]

If you did file too much off, you can always silver solder an extension on to the tab of the thimble... I always use a good epoxy glue under the thimble's along with the pin...

The epoxy I like to use is; Devcon High Strength 5 Minute Clear Epoxy... It has excellent wood to metal adhesion...

Here's a tip; stain the area you will use the epoxy in and let it overlap alittle onto the wood... This way if your epoxy runs, and you are going to use a Tru-Oil finish, you'll never know that epoxy is on the wood, next to the thimble's... (I use water base stains, but that's my preference)...

Remember,,, every builder has to start somewhere and you only get better by building... Mistakes are made and unless they are absolutely beyond repair, they are fixable...

Your thimble situation is minor and can be easily fixed...

Good Luck!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

Although you keep talking about a 3/32 pin, you can go down to a 1/16 dia pin without any problem at all.
Sence the 1/16 pin is .032 smaller than the 3/32 dia pin, the difference in the pin radius is .016. That .016 can make the difference between the pin breaking thru, or it not breaking thru the top of the tab. when you drill the hole.

Not that my way is the right way, but I always use 1/16 pins on my trigger guard and my ramrod thimbles. Never had a problem with holding power plus it makes a much less noticable hole in the side of the forstock.
While I'm talking about thimbles, I usually use two pins thru the lower (or entry) thimble to keep the part that extends back into the surface of the forarm flush with the stock.

Also, some of the commercial thimbles have a much longer tab than is required along the axis of the thimble. If you shorten this down to about 5/16 to 3/8 long, it will make a much smaller breakthru into the bottom of the barrel channel.

 

[Ohio Joe]

I use the shank of a 1/8 inch steel rivet which gives me a 1/16 inch pin... A #48 bit makes the correct size hole for this pin...

5/32nds of wood is plenty to work with. Your right, Zonie...

 

[rootnuke]

I am just gonna order me a new set of RR pipes. There is no problem with the pipe inlet into the stock as I have not gone far enough any way.
I don't want to take the barrel off and be reminded of my ****oo with the pipes. I also don't want to strugle with getting the pins to hit the pipe lug with such a small margin of error. That usually leads to bent pins and wood break-out on the opposite side.

Nope, I will not try to make these fit, just a few days wait will not kill me. I probably will find some goodies to buy I don't already have when I order.

I like the solder idea but I have never soldered other than electrical wires, copper water and gas tubing.

Trying to make these pipes work is like trying to get pee out of the swimming pool, once its done, its done.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Remember,,, every builder has to start somewhere and you only get better by building... Mistakes are made and unless they are absolutely beyond repair, they are fixable...

My father-in-law was a cabinetmaker. He once told me "the measure of a craftsman is how quickly he recovers from his mistakes."

'Course, he also had a pick-ax handle mounted over the door with the words "Mistake Corrector" burned onto it. :shocking:

 

[54JNoll]

I use 1/16 size welding rod as my pin stock for ramrod pipes and the trigger guard. However, breaking through to the barrel channel for the ramrod pipes is historically accurate as well as breaking into the ramrod channel for the barrel lugs. Neither indicates a mistake although they will not score well in modern formal "judging". Although I can understand your desire to make things as "clean" as possible. 1/16 welding wire is cheap cheap cheap and available at most any hardware store. You can then file down the lugs you have. One rod will make pins for many many rifles and it allows you to cut you pins to length for each location.