RamRod/rangerod accessories manure

[kopfjaeger]

I was going to ask that same question. I've been shooting and hunting with flintlock firearms since 1975 and always used hot soapy water and cut up cotton tee shirts. After the barrel is clean I oil it with either remoil or wd40.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Whenever I get in a pinch like that and I need to buy time, I'll give the bore a liberal soaking with WD-40 to buy time until cleaning.

Honestly though, the whole black powder corroding thing is not a problem IF you use good quality black powder. Lousy quality BP and Pyrodex are corrosive.

There are lots of BP hunters who won't clean until the end of the season regardless of how much they shoot. I'm one of 'em.

 

[kaintuck]

Nothin else....un breach and push it out.....lots of instructions here of how it's done... :hatsoff:

 

[Mr.D123]

Because I can, because I want to, because it was nylon and so forth and so on.
I took it to a shop because I didn't know what else to do. Why would I come on here for a berating anyways? I look for advice on an issue, simple as that. Talk to like minded people with more experience than I certainly have.
Anyways.
The good news is I got it out. I used my ball puller. I did try to shoot it out, but I had apparently way too much moose milk and when I seated it, it pushed it all out into the powder. I came home, tried one last time and was able to worm it's way in the middle of the brush. I guess when I tried to use the pipe, I smushed the brush. It didn't look pretty when it came out. I'll post a pic later today.

Thank you gentlemen for encouragement and the advice.

 

[Gemoke]

I`ve used a zerk fitting to get a broken end of a ram rod out and it worked great. now there's one in my shooting box all the time.

 

[Birddog6]

Thinking on your situations..... Was the nylon bore brush made on a aluminum shaft that broke, or a steel one ? Some of them I have seen the twisted part holding the bristles is twisted steel, but the screw in part was aluminum. Not good....

If it was steel that broke, it had to have a flaw in it unless you really had it tight, or had previously had it in a bind & weakened it.

Same way with Jags. Seen allot of them with brass threads break, have yet to see one with a steel allen screw threaded one break.

Keith Lisle

 

[azmntman]

YA....Zonie has posted several times last few months how to correct that, drill it out n replace.

 

[Billnpatti]

One thing you will find out is that the difference between this forum and others that you may have been on is that when we give you a hard time, and it happens from time to time, we have a smile on our face and an arm around your shoulders. Rarely does anyone ever get seriously "flamed" and when they do it is almost always by a new member who doesn't realize that he is dealing with gentlemen who treat each other with respect. Never take the ribbing seriously. It is always meant in fun. We are here to help you when you need us. :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

His response to my suggestion to get good rods confused me on that point.
IMHO, his best bet to remove the brush would have been to try to shoot it out. He had a charge in there. Even if the charge blew by the brush, it, being nylon would have burned away and the aluminum shaft would have just fallen out the barrel. But, a simple solution did not seem to be of interest to him. :youcrazy:

 

[Mr.D123]

It was aluminum, I believe.

To rifleman. I did try to shoot it out. I had too much wetness by the time I seated the brush and patch it rung it out onto the powder causing it be inert. I tried 10 different times to shoot it out. Undo barrel, dry out the breech, powder again. It was getting ridiculous.
All the advice given did not fall on deaf ears. The only thing I didn't try was the zerk fitting and grease gun and that was because I gave the ball puller one last try.

 

[Mr.D123]

I said in a previous post the PVC pipe smushed the brush.

So Dropbox doesn't work for links... and I ran out of time for edit. Sorry for double post.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I don,t know if you read my posts above but...brushes are prone to failure. I advise you to develop a better cleaning routine. I have said this before and been ignored and shunned...but aluminum and plastic (nylon or other synthetics) have no place in muzzleloading (ok I will conceed to a heavy duty aluminum cleaning rod).. I speak from experience. Cleaning a muzzleloader can be a pain in the a_s ..but if you use quality equipment and have a sound method and routine. it becomes a breeze and makes shooting extemely enjoyable. :2

 

[tom deinek]

Great result

Best part of the whole exercise is that you learned that you WILL extract it next time. May take some patience & cogitation @ 3:18AM, but now you know it can be done.
_______

Tiny holes in .30-06 is a great addition to the body of knowledge we have about extraction / dry balling

 

[Mr.D123]

Well, lesson learned. To my defense, this is my 2nd rifle in a year. I only have 1 year black powder shooting under my belt. I did not have anyone to show me the how and the what. Everything I've learned has been through tial, error, and online research.

 

[flintlockmdj]

The online search is very good. Next time stop and think about the situation,(1) you have a load of powder down the barrel (2) your brush is no good anymore anyway (3) nothing is lost if you shoot it out. May work or may not but at least you have the load of powder out of the way so it won't go off accidently.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I had a brush come apart in 1982 or so and haven't used one in a muzzleloading rifle since. I ended up pulling off the breech block and buggering it up even with the T/C breech tool.

If you do insist on the brush get the single wire type that is threaded through a crossways hole in the threaded stud instead of the two twisted wires swaged into the threaded stud type.

Better yet (IMHO) is to avoid brushes. No need unless you have direct metal on metal contact with lead/copper against the barrel. Patched round balls have none of this.

 

[MJMarkey]

I think I would have pulled the breech plug out long ago but without knowing the caliber here's a suggestion.

Get a piece of rigid copper tubing that will fit in the bore and long enough to reach the breech. Taper the inside edge of one end that you will insert to a sharp edge. Then push it into the bore till it surrounds the plastic bristles, and pull it out. Then go after the patch with a normal worm.

If that doesn't work PULL THE BREECH PLUG.

The lesson here is NEVER use a brush in a ML bore they are one way devices, the bristles easily bend in one direction and because of the shortness of the bristle length and the amount of bristles, they will not reverse. A tough lesson learned.

The only brush I've seen that will work in ML barrels is a spiral brush, not bristles but little spiral loops that actually compress and don't bend. But this is only good for a smoothie.

 

[Zonie]

I agree that using a brush in a muzzleloader is both unnecessary and it can cause problems.

If a person is determined to use a brush at least use a steel cleaning rod with good threads to hold it.

After ramming it down the bore, when you decide to remove it, do NOT try to pull it straight back out of the bore. As MJMarkey says, the bristles will wedge in against the bore and lock it in place.

When you want to remove it, turn the cleaning rod clockwise until you feel the brush slip. Then, applying a slight upward pressure, turn the cleaning rod clockwise again until the brush slips. Continue this upward pressure + turning pulling harder this time. When the brush slips again it's bristles will be bent backwards towards the breech and you can pull the (damn) brush out of the bore.

 

[Rifleman1776]

That technique works only when accompanied with considerable prayer. :wink:

 

[dmills]

Maybe I missed something, but I am confused as to why there was a load of powder in there when OP was trying to clean the barrel.