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Ramrod swirl ?
- Thread starter joebon
- Start date
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There are many ways to stripe a ramrod. I have tried several methods and found this works best for me and produces the nicest results. I took a common roll of black plastic electrical tape and cut the roll in half down the middle. This made a nice narrow tape. After staining the ramrod with a light colored stain and letting it dry over night, starting at the top of the rod I wrapped the narrow tape at the desired angle around and around all the way to the bottom end. Make sure the tape is tight to the wood and all of the open spaces are spaced evenly. Then using a dark colored stain, apply to the ramrod. Let dry again over night before removing the tape. You can then apply a good clear coat of your favorite stock finish. I use Teak oil.
nchawkeye
58 Cal.
Yep, most were wrapped and either chemically stained or lightly charred...
Fire works.
Use a propane torch setting on the ground and turn the rod as you wish to get the stripes.
Or just a candle flame will do it.
I used to do my rods this way until my tastes changed and I now no longer like the look.
It is yer rod, burn to taste. :wink:
Use a propane torch setting on the ground and turn the rod as you wish to get the stripes.
Or just a candle flame will do it.
I used to do my rods this way until my tastes changed and I now no longer like the look.
It is yer rod, burn to taste. :wink:
I was actually going to advise JAB to follow any of the many ways to create a "swirled" ram rod and then for the best affect,
Sand it all off!
I have other words for the candy cane ramrod, but this is a family site.
You are not alone Alden.
Sand it all off!
I have other words for the candy cane ramrod, but this is a family site.
You are not alone Alden.
Nope you are not alone. I can't advise how to apply the stripes, but am expert at removing them.
Alden said:
I can't say for sure that I ever seen one but maybe in a picture. I wouldn't think I would care for it either but if I was to do it, I think the burnt effect would look best.
I kinda like them but many say they are not historically correct.
Then, I've read a few articles describing original guns that have been found in attics that had not been moved for well over a hundred and forty years and some of them had striped ramrods.
I use the same method Captjoel described.
I should mention to the anti-stripers, I've only striped the ramrods on a few of my rifles and never on the pre 1800 style guns.
Then, I've read a few articles describing original guns that have been found in attics that had not been moved for well over a hundred and forty years and some of them had striped ramrods.
I use the same method Captjoel described.
I should mention to the anti-stripers, I've only striped the ramrods on a few of my rifles and never on the pre 1800 style guns.
newtewsmoke
45 Cal.
turn-n-burn! :wink:JAB said:
One of the old methods was a 50% solution of water and hydrochloric (then called 'muriatic') acid with iron filings (today shredded steel wool would work) dissolved in. This solution was striped on the ramrod shaft and allowed to penetrate. The problem with this method is that it takes the chemical reaction 2 or 3 months to darken enough to be decorative. The only practical method to use this system would be to do several, or a batch, at a time. The couple really old ramrods with striping I've seen that actually looked authentic may have been done this way and are much more subdued, color-wise, than the modern methods used today. Obviously, there wasn't pre-cut tape to make it looks so even and concentric.
To "Hollywood" a ramrod (as I call it), take an old bed sheet & tear a long strip about 1.5" wide, fold the edges in to the desired width you want the stripe to be. Or go to Jo Anne Fabrics or HobbyLobby and buys some cotton Binding of the width you want, color doesn't matter.
We the material, tape one end & turn & wrap the RR the spacing you want, tape or wire the other end. Take a propane torch & scorch the wood as you turn it.
Remove the material, sand, stain, finish.
My suggestions is practice on a dowel rod before screwing up your good RR.
I have done several of them, every one I sanded off later. IMHO, the striped RR distracts you from the looks of the rifle & makes the RR the focus point. Now if that is why you want it, it is a good distraction. However if you want someone to appreciate you rifle building skill, rather than you RR skills, don't stripe the RR. Make the RR so it is part of the rifle & belongs there, not the focus point of the build.
Keith Lisle
We the material, tape one end & turn & wrap the RR the spacing you want, tape or wire the other end. Take a propane torch & scorch the wood as you turn it.
Remove the material, sand, stain, finish.
My suggestions is practice on a dowel rod before screwing up your good RR.
I have done several of them, every one I sanded off later. IMHO, the striped RR distracts you from the looks of the rifle & makes the RR the focus point. Now if that is why you want it, it is a good distraction. However if you want someone to appreciate you rifle building skill, rather than you RR skills, don't stripe the RR. Make the RR so it is part of the rifle & belongs there, not the focus point of the build.
Keith Lisle
jdkerstetter
69 Cal.
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Wes/Tex said:
Wes, Can you sight period documentation of this? Or even a study that supports it? I've never heard this assertion.
Really, 2 months to put stripes on a batch of ramrods??? I believe these old guys had better things to do. Enjoy, J.D.
Actually, my source is a source of painful memories. It came from an old book I found back in the early 1960's about early Pennsylvania rifle makers and some of their building methods. At that time, I tried a couple of the ideas and found they worked but were very time consuming. Then the book got stolen, I think, since it disappeared under rather odd circumstances. Since then, I've tried for years to recall the title and author with no success. I've gone on book search sites and put every version of the subject and possible author names I can think of, all without success. Beginning to fear it was some seriously rare tome that I'll never be able to duplicate. Frustrating beyond belief. Later on, Dixie Gun Works started mentioning the process in their catalog's helpful hints section in the back. I contacted them with all kinds of questions about the source of that formula...again, no cigar. They claim it's an old well known procedure from early rifle builders. Rats!
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jdkerstetter
69 Cal.
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Old meaning early 20th century or old meaning 18th century? I only ask as I've done considerable reading on this subject and have seen no references to the process.
What I find far fetched is the 2 or 3 month lay up to change color. It's much akin to people using hardware store boiled linseed oil without driers added today as a "period finish". The idea that early 'smiths used finishes that took weeks or more to apply and dry is just ludicrous considering they were trying to make a living doing this.
Almost all examined 18th and early 19th century guns had tapered ramrods. Ramrods were made to fit the gun, not vise versa, so how could you just decorate a bunch and lay them up?
I don't dispute that somebody documented it in a book....just that's it's based more on conjecture than fact. Enjoy, J.D.
What I find far fetched is the 2 or 3 month lay up to change color. It's much akin to people using hardware store boiled linseed oil without driers added today as a "period finish". The idea that early 'smiths used finishes that took weeks or more to apply and dry is just ludicrous considering they were trying to make a living doing this.
Almost all examined 18th and early 19th century guns had tapered ramrods. Ramrods were made to fit the gun, not vise versa, so how could you just decorate a bunch and lay them up?
I don't dispute that somebody documented it in a book....just that's it's based more on conjecture than fact. Enjoy, J.D.
Yup, it's on page 625 of the 2011 catalog under Artificial Tiger Stripe
Oh, I agree, it's just an interesting look into the past. My 66 year old memory says the book was referring to 18th century building methods but that's about as certain as my memory. I've developed several of the methods stated in that book. The linseed oil finish is indeed a long, drawn-out process. Using the oil alone makes a beautiful finish that is very water resistant BUT the old comment about it is true. "once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year"...that guy wasn't kidding! I've done it twice and I'm done for good.
I've never done this, but Wes/Tex's method sounds very close to iron acetate, which can be produced by dissolving iron (steel wool) in vinegar, and is used to react with high tannin woods to darken them. It is a nearly instantaneous process. Oaks darken really fast (I used this on a cannon carriage - turned purple, but after neutralizing the acid and coating with linseed, it looked great - incidentally, I told that to a few of my friends, and my cannon now bears the name Barney). Not all woods react as well, so you'd want to try it on a sample piece before doing it on a ramrod or stock, but it's a very traditional "stain", and very easy to make/work with.
yeah, I should have mentioned that one as well...suppose it was a 'senior moment'. There are several methods that were from years ago that will work. I've tried the old stain of breaking up a plug of chewing tobacco in ammonia and letting it age a week. Works well on light hardwoods but looks yucky on walnut and other dark woods. Have used it on antique furniture as well, especially pine pieces. The stain will get a bit darker with each application and is great for matching replaced wood to an old item. Found out you really have to seal it though...roaches really like the taste and your work will have long twisty lines along it where they slurp it up! :thumbsup:
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