ramrod tip ?

[old ugly]

i have a 40 cal flint long gun that has a 3/8 ramrod. the ramrod is just slightly smaller that the bore. every once in a while it has a tendency to grab the patch when loading. (makes it tough)
it has a 3/8 steel end that is tapped for the cleaning jag.
i am thinking of tapering down the end of the ramrod and installing a 5/6 end onto it so it has a bit of clearance around the patch.

does this sound like it would work? is this sort of thing done?

thank you
OU

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

i have a 40 cal flint long gun that has a 3/8 ramrod. the ramrod is just slightly smaller that the bore. every once in a while it has a tendency to grab the patch when loading. (makes it tough)
it has a 3/8 steel end that is tapped for the cleaning jag.
i am thinking of tapering down the end of the ramrod and installing a 5/6 end onto it so it has a bit of clearance around the patch.

does this sound like it would work? is this sort of thing done?

thank you
OU

Are you using a starter to get the ball into the bore 3 to 4 inches?
Larry
Your patch should not be higher than the top of the ball

 

[Gtrubicon]

Have you tried a longer cleaning jag that threads onto your ramrod? They are much better than a short or button style jag. They have a reduced shank so it won’t grab your patch and get it bound in the barrel. I’d rather try that vs reduce the ramrod diameter. They are pretty cheap.

 

[old ugly]

i just cut square patches. there is always a bit of cloth above the ball.

i do short start it, i don't know why it grabs on.

i may just taper down the raw end of the rod, the end that is inserted in the rr hole and try that end to ram home the ball.

thanks
OU

 

[old ugly]

Have you tried a longer cleaning jag that threads onto your ramrod? They are much better than a short or button style jag. They have a reduced shank so it won’t grab your patch and get it bound in the barrel. I’d rather try that vs reduce the ramrod diameter. They are pretty cheap.

that is a good idea too
thanks
OU

 

[lv2tinker22]

i just cut square patches. there is always a bit of cloth above the ball.

i do short start it, i don't know why it grabs on.

i may just taper down the raw end of the rod, the end that is inserted in the rr hole and try that end to ram home the ball.

thanks
OU

That's what I did to my .36 and it worked great.

 

[rickpa]

I've built 2 .40 rifles. I used 5/16 ram rods on both, with jags that thread into a tip on the rod.

 

[flconch53]

i have a 40 cal flint long gun that has a 3/8 ramrod. the ramrod is just slightly smaller that the bore. every once in a while it has a tendency to grab the patch when loading. (makes it tough)
it has a 3/8 steel end that is tapped for the cleaning jag.
i am thinking of tapering down the end of the ramrod and installing a 5/6 end onto it so it has a bit of clearance around the patch.

does this sound like it would work? is this sort of thing done?

thank you
OU

Using a jag with a tapered shank is the right answer.

 

[flconch53]

Using a jag with a tapered shank is the right answer.

Here is one I made for a forum member it is for a
29 cal

 

[Eric Krewson]

Sounds like too much patch.

My too much patch story; I was treestand hunting on a real frosty day, my fingers were really numb. A nice 8 point was chasing does all around me during the morning but always went by at breakneck speed and didn't give me shot. Later in the morning he walked by my tree at about 10 yards and stopped, I drew down on him with my flintlock, my set trigger was set way too light, I touched it with my cold finger before I had aimed and BOOM! right over his back. He was lust crazed, he was slobbering and rolling his eyes, he paid no attention to the shot and started rubbing a sapling. I frantically reloaded but rammed the ball in way too far before I cut the patch. I had a lot of the excess patch sticking out of the bore when I rammed the ball home with my ramrod, the extra patch jammed my ramrod and I couldn't pull it out, the buck was still rubbing the bush. After about 5 minutes of tugging, the ramrod finally broke loose and came out and brought the ball with it, this time I folded the excess patch down over the top of the ball and rammed it home. About the time I got reloaded the buck had walked off and only his butt was visible in a pine thicket about 30 yards away, I let him go.

I made sure to cut my patches much smaller in the future and never stuck another ramrod.

 

[1950DAVE]

I am probably in the minority but I cut at the muzzle after barely bumping the ball below the muzzle. It leaves no excess patch to bind on a tight rod. 3/8” does sound way too tight to me. Just my opinion.

 

[flconch53]

I am probably in the minority but I cut at the muzzle after barely bumping the ball below the muzzle. It leaves no excess patch to bind on a tight rod. 3/8” does sound way too tight to me. Just my opinion.

You still have too watch cleaning patches

 

[Rebel bull]

I think I would have taken the TEXAS heart shot

 

[flatcreek]

I taper the rod on my 40 cal to 5/16 on one end and the other is 3/8 and 2/3 of the rod is 3/8. I use a metal end on the 5/16 and just wood on the 3/8. I put the 5/16 end in the stock first. The other day I was using the 3/8 ball starter from my 50 cal on the 40 and it would catch the patch every time. PITB

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have two .40s with 3/8" rods, never snagged the jag or the ball starter, I do use a smaller diameter ball starter.

 

[J.D.]

Chambers sells a 5/16, tapered iron tip, threaded for 8-32, for $5.00 + shipping, that should mitigate your problem.

 

[longcruise]

If it's snagging with the patch between the jag and the bore just push the patch over the top of the ball before you start it.

 

[Appowner]

i have a 40 cal flint long gun that has a 3/8 ramrod. the ramrod is just slightly smaller that the bore. every once in a while it has a tendency to grab the patch when loading. (makes it tough)
it has a 3/8 steel end that is tapped for the cleaning jag.
i am thinking of tapering down the end of the ramrod and installing a 5/6 end onto it so it has a bit of clearance around the patch.

does this sound like it would work? is this sort of thing done?

thank you
OU

Tapering the end and fitting a metal end to it is what I do. lots of available ends out there on the web. I'm not on my PC right now or I'd include a few links. Take your time turning the end down. Once the tip is firmly in place, cross drill through tip and rod and insert a pin. Trim the ends of the pins flush with the tip.

Alternately you can dish the end of the rod and use that to ram the ball home. I'd also put a drop of super glue in that dish you made on the end. The glue will soak in a bit and make the wood much harder. Let it set overnight then sand to smooth and finish the rod.

 

[Mad L]

I don't like tapped ends to drive the ball down, not on the ramrod nor on a short/straight starter; that tapped hole buggers the face of the ball.
I prefer a smooth faced jag which usually had a slight 'cup', or at least a flat rod tip - less to deform the face of the ball.

Finding flat faced (or cupped) tips for rod is getting hard these days...I forgot where I found the ones I last got, I picked up a couple spares in 50 and 45cal

 

[Appowner]

I don't like tapped ends to drive the ball down, not on the ramrod nor on a short/straight starter; that tapped hole buggers the face of the ball.
I prefer a smooth faced jag which usually had a slight 'cup', or at least a flat rod tip - less to deform the face of the ball.

Finding flat faced (or cupped) tips for rod is getting hard these days...I forgot where I found the ones I last got, I picked up a couple spares in 50 and 45cal

I use the tips that flair out to cradle the ball. These tips don't have a threaded hole. I'll also use a dab of epoxy to initially attach the tip. It fills in any gaps in my carving.