Ramrod to short

[BillW73]

I just purchased a new non production flintlock from a popular website. When it showed up I found that the ramrod ended at the front lock bolt. Which means it is to short to be used to load the rifle. The place I bought it from does not seem interested in talking with me about this.
So my question is, is there anything that can be done? The bolt has a notch cut in it. But the bolt goes straight through the ramrod channel. There is no clearance to go past the bolt. While shooting at the range I can use a range rod. However if I want to take it into the field I would have to carry a ramrod.
Can the rifle be fired with out the front lock bolt installed?
Thank you for any insight on this.

 

[Rusty_Nail]

Maybe get a T-handle or extended length Jag that screws into the RR? I have one of the T-handles for pulling a dry ball.

Evilbay has one with a T-Handle, and also an extended Jag, for $17.00. Just search for TC T-handle.

 

[54ball]

It may be OK. Many require a tapered rod. You need to confirm that RR channel is too short. Try a small diameter rod to confirm channel depth. If the channel does end at the front lock bolt, I would consider sending it back.

If it is in fact a full length RR channel and lock bolt interfering you may need a tapered rod. Many originals had tapered rods to clear that lock bolt. The lock bolt was also grooved or thinned in that area to give additional clearance. Some even had a dummy lock bolt at the front (wood screw) with no front lock bolt at all.

At last resort you can use a full length rod and let extend past the muzzle, many late period Tennessee Rifles used longer rods. If you do that, it's easier to transport the rifle with the rod in the barrel instead of in the pipes, not as much sticks out.

 

[Zonie]

I agree, 54.

Although most flintlocks use two screws to retain the lock, the forward screw isn't absolutely necessary. Replacing it with a short wood screw to provide a clear ramrod hole is one way to solve the problem. I even know one builder who resorted to such tactics once.

The only difficult part about doing this is to somehow come up with a suitable screw with a thread and head shape that would work.

It is a good idea to run a small straight rod down to the bottom of the existing ramrod hole to make sure it is long enough for a full length ramrod before making a change to the number of lock screws though.

For the casual hunter the full length ramrod extending out of the front of the stock can work.
As you imply, it's been done for over 150 years and it still works. The only negative is its looks and possibly catching it on a bush or tree.

 

[gunmaker43]

Carry a 6" or little longer screw tip attachment with a jag on one end in your bag. Add it to re-load and it gives you more to grab a hold of. Tom

 

[BillW73]

I would like to thank everyone for the ideas. The ramrod channel is long enough for a full length ramrod. The front bolt just does not allow it.
How much can I notch the bolt before I have to worry about strength? I am going to get a spare ramrod and bolt and see if I can make it work by notching the bolt and tapering the ramrod.

 

[54ball]

You might can get by by simply tapering the rod. I would try that first.

 

[LRB]

As Zonie mentioned, the front bolt is not absolutely necessary. My own rifle was done with a short dummy screw at the front, and it is close to 20 years old now. A flint lock is less violent to the stock wood than are most percussion locks which by nature give a scissor like pressure in the mortise, whereas the action of a flint lock is much more self contained in the lock itself. Most sporting/hunting percussion guns have but one lock bolt even though a bit more prone to cracking the wood above the front of the lock. If you feel a true need for a frontal attachment, it can be done with a hook silver brazed to the underside of the lock plate, then fill the threaded bolt hole with a piece of threaded rod.

 

[kaintuck]

Just as the other fellows say.....my 1st TVM kit rifle has this problem......one bolt lock for 15yrs has no problems :wink:
I will get around ton "fixin" it one day.....no biggie.
I an to just put a screw on end to the RR, then carry in my bag a extension.....

My bolt runs Exactly thru the middle of the lock bolt.. :youcrazy:
Can't thin that! :shake: :slap:
I COULD re-cut the RR channel, and then fill it in..... but it's much easier to just buy a tip from TOTW and use the extension IF needed.....

Marc n tomtom

 

[ZUG]

If after trying all above suggestions and you want to try something different try this --- Glue a wood plug that's the same diameter of the lock bolt hole but stops short of the ramrod hole (only has to be 1/2"-3/4"long) and use a wood screw that the head looks like the original lock bolt screw head. Problem solved & looks like original. :hatsoff:

 

[DickS]

Here is a more drastic remedy - cut a groove in the barrel channel inlet, through to the ramrod hole, and deep enough to allow the rod to clear below the bolt. Might have to run from a couple of inches in front of the bolt, back to the breech end of the inlet. Then, glue in a wooden patch, and epoxy bed the barrel over it.

 

[frogwalking]

I have seen a hook installed at the location of the front lock bolt. The hook is on the back of the lockplate and facing forward. A wood screw is installed so that the hook engages the rear of the head. The head is completely hidden behind the lock. If this does not work due to the mainspring, a flathead wood screw can be installed at the front of the lockplate. The plate is grooved and halfway countersunk so when installed (front first) it will engage the screw. Some double barreled guns are made this way.

 

[frogwalking]

Oh. The man who sold you this rifle knew it was defective. If he did not tell you about this problem before you bought it, I would have an attorney write him a letter suggesting that he return your money. If this does not have the desired result, take him to small claims court.

 

[Brokennock]

Is the rod too short "to load" the gun or too short to clean to the breach face. Most of my guns have rods that if dropped into the barrel with no charge loaded will barely reach the muzzle if at all. Drop in a powder charge and a few fingers worth of rod is available, add the projectile/s of choice and one has plenty to work with.
Does the rod reach the muzzle when mounted in the gun? If not add an extended jag and leave it attached.

My Centermark Fusil came with the bare wood end of the ramrod that goes into the stock tapered flat on one side to clear the lock bolt. It's still too short to clean with in the field, but works fine for loading.