Range Rod: What to Look For?

[LFC]

I gather that it's handy to have a "range rod" for cleaning, loading, and other ramrod-like tasks.

(As I understand it--correct me if I'm wrong--a range rod is basically a longer, sturdier ramrod, often but not always with a "T" handle, that people use at the shooting range or while repairing a gun, because it's sturdier or more-conveniently-sized-and-shaped than the one that goes under the gun's barrel; those who use range rods presumably leave them behind and use the under-barrel rod when they're out hunting, plinking, etc. Do I have this right?)

What should one look for in a range rod? What should one avoid? How much do they cost? Any good or bad models out there I should know about?

 

[roundball]

Solid rods to make seating 50 balls in a range session easier, and allows it to be done with a single stroke;

Solid rods don't have tips that can pull loose;

Solid rods won't break and injure a hand or arm;

Solid rods are particularly beneficial in smaller caliber where smaller diameter rods have to be used yet they still provide good strength;

A large (2") round ball is easier and more conmfortable on the hand for me than a T-Handle;

The large round ball is also highly visible when you shoulder your rifle for a shot and realize you've left the range rod in the bore;

A tapered cone muzzle protector is very important.

Recently I bought a couple of 5/16" solid brass range rods for my .40cal, cost about $25 each, plus about $3 each for a wooden ball with 10/32" bolt already through the ball to simply screw onto the end of the rod.
(I leave the balls permanently mounted on each range rod that I have)

 

[john12865]

What round ball says is all true. Just keep in mind that when loading in a hunting situation with the wood rod on your gun, don't try to seat the ball in one stroke.
Wood rods are subject to breaking and can not stand the force like a solid rod can. I have a friend that ran a wood rod through his hand and wrist when it broke. He had just been in the habit of slamming the ball down in a single stroke with a range rod.
So when using a wood rod go hand over hand every 6" or so and once it's sticking out of the bore 6", give it a hard shove to seat the ball on the power.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Yup, as far as I am concerned, you nailed the definition of a Range Rod exactly!

What should one look for in a range rod?

I think what you said ... 1-piece ideally. And I personally would go for one made of brass (hollow or solid) or solid aluminum (although I know some will cringe at that). Note that a typical hollow rod gives 95+% of the strength at 60% or less of the weight, or at least that's what I remember from my days as a GE-trained machinist.

I myself made one out of solid aluminum, buying a 1-piece 6' length at a local GOOD hardware store, 3/8" diameter, for only $6. Can't beat that price! I use it in my smoothbore and put a wooden ball on one end, and tapped it for 10-32 accessories on the other end.

A neat trick, if you prefer 8-32 threaded accessories would be to attach the handle using 10-32 threads (removable, permanent male in the handle/ball) and put 8-32 threads on the other end. Thereby giving you the option to use either thread pattern, depending on your need.

Another neat trick I have seen done on solid metal rods it to drill an 1/8" hole an inch or so down the length of the rod, ends tapped 8-32 on one side and 10-32 on the other. Some groves were turned every 1/4" to 1/2" for 3" or so. No handle per se was used. But when needed, you could put a length of rawhide or stout cord through the hole to use as a handle. I saw this when a guy at the range got his range rod 'stuck' and simply tied it off to the roof support and pulled back on the firearm just as easy as you please.

At least this left the barrel pointing in a safe direction down range :thumbsup: haha!

What should one avoid?

I'd go brqss over aluminum, but I was a cheapskate and could not find a solid brass rod at the time. Aluminum, just so you know, can imbed dirt into it's sides and wear on a barrel or muzzle.

I have posted instructions before on making a hollow brass ramrod (laminated/reinforced ends too !), see here, but I could never find hollow lengths long enough (> 48") to make a suitable range rod for my long-barreled smoothbores .

How much do they cost?

I believe October Mountain, Rightnour, and Thunder Ridge was selling them for $20 or so, 1-piece 48" brass ones at least. Shipping cost is the killer ... Hopefully others will chime in good sources.

Any good or bad models out there I should know about?

I have a shorter Oct Mtn solid rod and it's a quality rod. I have seen and handled the RMC and T-Ridge rods, 1 and multi-pieces and they're as good as I think you can get.

Hope this helps and spurs others to comment!

Edit: Too me too long to write this ... but some GREAT comments by Roundball (as always :hatsoff: !) on the benefits of solid rod threaded connections versus hollow rods. Though I will add ... if you read my DIY instructions for the hollow rod, where I made the ends of 3 laminated pieces of tubing, I think they could be almost as strong.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I agree with Roundball. What I can add is that solid metallic range rods can be had in stainless steel, brass, and aircraft aluminum alloy. Try Cains, or Log cabin if brass trips your trigger. I think Cains also sells the aluminum ones. You can find the Stainless Steel rods from many suppliers that are listed under member resources here.

I have one range rod made of stainless steel that I bought at Friendship, from a commercial dealer there. I use it in my .50 cal. rifle. I have another Range rod that is made of aircraft quality aluminum alloy that is larger in diameter and fits my .20 ga. fowler. For my 12 gauge, I made a range rod out of a good piece of hickory, that I personally selected from a commercial dealer at Friendship. I also turned down a piece of walnut on a friend's wood lathe, to a doorknob shape, that is wider than 2 inches, which is pinned, and glued to the hickory rod. I bought the jag and RR fitting from a dealer, and glued and pinned the ferrel to the other end of my rod, after cutting it to length.

I have maybe $4.00 in my home made range rod for my 12 ga; the Stainless Steel rod cost me about $20.00, and the Aluminum one with jags, cost closer to $25.00. None is going to break the bank. But they are surely the right tool to use at the right time, when doing a lot of shooting, or cleaning.

Anytime I have one of them at the range, other shooters come over to take a look at them, heft them, and then ask questions about where to get one like it. My stainless steel rod is made by Tresso, I believe. I am not sure about the aluminum one, but I believe it was purchased from Cains.

 

[roundball]

"...keep in mind that when loading in a hunting situation with the wood rod on your gun, don't try to seat the ball in one stroke. Wood rods are subject to breaking and can not stand the force like a solid rod can. I have a friend that ran a wood rod through his hand and wrist when it broke. He had just been in the habit of slamming the ball down in a single stroke with a range rod..."

Excellent point John...and for that very reason I gradually replaced every wooden underbarrel rod I had with a brass one...don't want to get injured or have a hunt disrupted by a broken rod out in the woods.

Along this same line about not having a hunt disrupted, whatever rod or rod accessories you take to use on a hunting trip, make sure the ends of the rod are also "pinned" onto the rod.
AND...that none of the accessories are ONLY "crimped" onto their little threaded section that screws into the rod...make sure their design is a captive one so they can't pull loose from the threads down at the bottom of the bore while out hunting either...the difference in price is nickles & dimes but can make all the difference in the world when you're using them.

 

I will just add that it is not a good idea to load live ammo with the hand on top of a "ball" end or "T" end of a range rod [my range rod does not have such devices anyway]. When loading always grasp the round shaft of the rod--better chance of salvaging your hand if the thing goes off on loading [especially important point for those of you that do not swab with a wet patch between shots--and don't tell it it won't happen--it has, if it has not yet to you, it may eventually]--the blast tends to open up the hand [I am told by people who claim to know]and you get burned, scraped palm and fingers at best, but not lose the whole hand at worst. When loading a canon we always teach keeping the thumb along the ramrod axis, too. For the same reasons you do not put your face in front of a muzzle, you should not place your hand over it...my range rod is aircraft aluminum--about as nonPC as you can get--made by a firm in Colorado--they have a website, but I forget the name...real nice rods threaded differently on each end to accomodate all end tools...

 

[roundball]

I will just add that it is not a good idea to load live ammo with the hand on top of a "ball" end or "T" end of a range rod

Actually that's another one of the criteria I used to decide between a large smooth round ball and a T-handle...on the off chance that such an event occurs, the large smooth round ball MIGHT be less apt to catch in my hand or fingers than a brass T-handle would, might have a better chance of sliding / pushing past my hand and still leaving my hand attached to my wrist...dunno if that might be benefical...but conversely, a T-handle surely seems more likely to snagg something and rip it off.

After seeing the idea about the "blow pipe" in another thread...maybe we should build a "range cart" on wheels with an offset hydraulic loading ram, remotely operated from a wireless laptop in a protected enclosure behind a berm :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

people always want to know why my range rod for my 12 gauge is about 12 inches longer than the barrels. They want to know why I didn't cut the hickory rod down closer to the length of the barrel. I didn't so that I can use a " monkey grip"-- just your fingers wrapped around the rod, with your thumbs down, and palms facing away from you, so you can keep that thumb from wrapping around the RR--- to load my gun.

The only time I use the knob at the end to control the rod is when I am cleaning it! I have had many shooters come up and ask me why I put my hands in that " funny position" when loading my gun. When I explain it, and demonstrate its advantages if the gun were to fire, they quickly adopt it when loading their barrels. This also requires a hand over hand technique to run the ball home, rather than the more macho, grab-it-at-the-end-and-shove-it-home approach. You don't break wooden rods, no matter how much runout of grain they have, using the " monkey grip ", hand-over-hand, technique.

Your experience may vary.

 

[john12865]

:rotf: That's too in line ish for me. :grin:

 

[bwhoffman]

I make mine with a billiard ball on the end with a solid rod. made it myself, epoxied a 10/32 end.
the weight gives good feel, I get a solid seat feel on the prb and I also gain a good handle when loaned to others to pull dryballs with. Luckily, I have not needed that feature...YET!

 

[LFC]

Interesting. Where do you get brass underbarrel rods? (I would think they'd be as heavy as heck. No?)

Also, let's say you've got the "crimped onto the wood" style ramrod; can you pin those yourself, to decrease the chances of the tip coming off? If so, any pointers?

 

[paulvallandigham]

If I buy a new gun and its ramrod has a ferrule that is not pinned, I pin it. Yes, you can pin any such ferrule to the rod. There are some strong brass( possibly bronze) rods that are now being used for under the barrel rods. But brass definitely weights more. That is why the aircraft aluminum rods came on the scene, but I have not see many of them being carried under the barrel, yet. Mostly, they make great, light weight, but strong range rods. I removed the ramrod pipes from my DB shotgun and now just carry my range rod into the hunting field with me. It goes down the center of my back, with the top under the shoulder strap of my hunting bag, and the jag being stuck under my belt and between the belt and my jeans. The knob is above my head, doesn't interfered with my swing, and doesn't get in the way when hunting open fields. If hunting woods, I carry it along the side of the gunbarrels, and simply drop it when a bird flushes. It hits on the knob end first, because the knob weighs so much. Of course, I don't move after the shot until I pick up my Range rod, but that isn't exactly a difficult thing to remember to do. :hmm:

 

[bucktales]

I switched to solid brass rods too. As far as weight goes on my hunting rifles, I prefer them a little more nose heavy.

 

[billk]

What about those indestructible ramrods that are being advertised here? Has anyone bought those? Comments?
Billk

 

[roundball]

Interesting. Where do you get brass underbarrel rods? (I would think they'd be as heavy as heck. No?)

Also, let's say you've got the "crimped onto the wood" style ramrod; can you pin those yourself, to decrease the chances of the tip coming off? If so, any pointers?

I buy all my brass ramrods from October Country because of the extra steps he takes in making them.

Yes the solids are heavy and I don't still hunt with them...but for target work and sitting on deer stands, sitting calling turkeys, etc, the weight improves accuracy as there is no muzzle wander...bead just hangs on the target.

For still hunting or for use with smaller caliber barrels which are already somewhat barrel heavy to begin with, I use October Country's hollow brass ramrods.

He uses excellent quality, strong .060" thick brass wall tube stock, then glues & pins the ends, buffs them off to the point where you have to look hard to even tell they are pinned.

All brass is high quality brass stock;

Custom cut to any finished length;

He then uses his lathe andcross hatches a 1.25" knurled area at the end under the muzzle for a non-slip grip when pulling the ramrod out.

Drills & taps whatever thread size you want on each end (I use the large, stronger 10/32")


Yes, you can pin your own...get a couple small finish nails, drill a hole that will make the nails snug when tapped in...cut them off "almost flush", leaving just enough of a stub sticking out so you can gently peen them so they flatten out, making the pin captive. Then gently file/sand for a finished look and you're all set.

 

[Grizzled Roberts]

When at historic events I use over sized heavy wood rods. Most of my flintlocks are large bore so this is no problem. I Do have to use SS with my squirrel gun. John Eder of Flintlocks Inc. has a great selection of these heavy wood rods with the cleaning jag attached. I have made a steel rod for my first model bess and a brass rod for my 28 ga fowler. These are carried in the thimbols. I do not use them often but I have them.
Most of the primitive matches I shoot require you to load with the ramrod. So I have range rods of stainless steel, wood and brass.
It is a good idea to use the range rod most of the time because it will not weaken like the small wood rod in your gun. If you use you issue ramrod every time to load and clean your firelock,
this usage will weaken the wood behind the ferrel.
one day the ferrel will just twist off in the barrel. I suppose the old timers did not shoot the same volume of shots as us modern shooters. :grin:
I have probably just confused everybody!

 

[Roy]

I doubt that many of us here shoot as much as you do :haha:

 

[Many Klatch]

The best and cheapest range rod that I know of is the .50 Caliber machine gun cleaning rods that you can sometimes find at an Army Surplus store. They are steel, have a T handle and are way strong.

Many Klatch

 

[wvbuckbuster]

I have been using range rods from cains(former mt. state) and they work great. not pc but don't break or go through the hand. wvbuckbuster.