Real Black Powder

[kansas_volunteer]

I've never used anything but black powder. Traditional muzzleloaders should be loaded with traditional propellant as I see it.

I bought what may prove to be a lifetime supply of black from Powderinc earlier this month. shipping and hazmat was included in the selling price. delivery was delayed due to factory backlog, but I still got it in reasonable time. I'll never be shooting anything but black for the next few years.

 

[Booneliane]

To be honest, pyrodex almost ruined me on traditional muzzleloaders.

Thank god I found this site and the real stuff.

Actually, I’d have saved a lot of money the other way though!

 

[PastorB]

I used Pyrodex for years, only thing available. It worked as advertised. I know, I could order "real black" online, pay hazmat and all that, wasn't too interested. Since I got into flintlocks, I make one long trip a year to pick up a few pounds. I have quite a supply of Pyrodex, RS and P, that I would buy at Walmart at end of season clearance for $1-$5 per pound. I use it for target shooting, so I don't have to use up the better stuff. When buying powder now, I get Hodgdon 777, that stuff is the cat's meow, if not historically accurate. It burns cleaner, gives more velocity (significantly!), is more accurate in my guns (due to less fouling, especially in revolvers) and cleans easier. It makes smoke still, and nobody looking at my rifle or handgun knows it is loaded with a substitute. If you are a die-hard traditionalist, amen to you, use Holy Black, it works just fine and I could use it without complaint. Hodgdon 777 is demonstratably better for velocity, cleaning, and accuracy in my guns. YMMV. Use what makes your hobby enjoyable for you!

 

[Tom Compton]

Real BP from Powder Inc in Clarksville AR

 

[Okie Hog]

zzleloader. But I have to ask, what is the point of Pryodex and other substitutes?

Pyrodex and other black powder substitutes appeals to folks who can't get black powder and to folks who desire an alternative to black powder. Contrary to opinions expressed by some, Pyrodex is not more corrosive than black [powder. The primary agent of corrosion in both is sulfur.

 

[user 49399]

I used Pyrodex for years, only thing available. It worked as advertised. I know, I could order "real black" online, pay hazmat and all that, wasn't too interested. Since I got into flintlocks, I make one long trip a year to pick up a few pounds. I have quite a supply of Pyrodex, RS and P, that I would buy at Walmart at end of season clearance for $1-$5 per pound. I use it for target shooting, so I don't have to use up the better stuff. When buying powder now, I get Hodgdon 777, that stuff is the cat's meow, if not historically accurate. It burns cleaner, gives more velocity (significantly!), is more accurate in my guns (due to less fouling, especially in revolvers) and cleans easier. It makes smoke still, and nobody looking at my rifle or handgun knows it is loaded with a substitute. If you are a die-hard traditionalist, amen to you, use Holy Black, it works just fine and I could use it without complaint. Hodgdon 777 is demonstratably better for velocity, cleaning, and accuracy in my guns. YMMV. Use what makes your hobby enjoyable for you!

PastorB,
Do you use 777 in flintlocks? I have used pyrodex P in flintlocks and it works, just have a little delay that I've learned to deal with.

 

[skyhigh315]

I've never had any ignition problems with Pyrodex. None. I've experimented with it (and T7) in my rock-lock, and get positive ignition 70% of the time. It hang fires 20% of the time and needs 2 or 3 pans about 10% of the time. Obviously, that's not acceptable performance, so I 'prime' the main charge with 5 grains of Black behind my substitutes. I definitely clean immediately upon returning home with Pyrodex, but will wait until after dinner or even the next day with Black or T7. Obviously, YMMV, but for me, the ignition 'issues' with substitutes are imaginary.

 

[PastorB]

PastorB,
Do you use 777 in flintlocks? I have used pyrodex P in flintlocks and it works, just have a little delay that I've learned to deal with.

Never tried it in flintlocks, mostly a percussion guy. When I do shoot a flintlock, I don't want to mess with a blackpowder "booster" charge behind the main charge. A pound or two of goex last a long time, because I use the readily available powders in the percussion stuff.

 

[mooman76]

Pyrodex and other black powder substitutes appeals to folks who can't get black powder and to folks who desire an alternative to black powder. Contrary to opinions expressed by some, Pyrodex is not more corrosive than black [powder. The primary agent of corrosion in both is sulfur.

Actually it is. I'm not trying to knock it because I been using it for years. Someone here ran a test with pictures. He had 3 pieces of steel. Ran a line of BP, 777 and Pyrodex down them. Lit them afire and took pictures each day and it clearly showed Pyrodex would corrode faster. It doesn't really concern me because I don't wait to clean and either way it will corrode if not cleaned and cleaned well.

 

[Davey Boy]

I still use Pyrodex in my cannon as it is way less money than black power. But now that I am into muzzle loaders I put black powder in them.

The pyrodex last for years and is still good. I did not buy any this year from the big W as they were not sealed containers.

 

[Booneliane]

I've never had any ignition problems with Pyrodex. None. I've experimented with it (and T7) in my rock-lock, and get positive ignition 70% of the time. It hang fires 20% of the time and needs 2 or 3 pans about 10% of the time. Obviously, that's not acceptable performance, so I 'prime' the main charge with 5 grains of Black behind my substitutes. I definitely clean immediately upon returning home with Pyrodex, but will wait until after dinner or even the next day with Black or T7. Obviously, YMMV, but for me, the ignition 'issues' with substitutes are imaginary.

70% positive ignition.

20% hang fires.

Flash in pans.

Having to mix real BP in to get positive ignition.

Doesn’t sound like imaginary ‘issues’ to me.

 

[Winchester97]

I have found real black powder to be superior in every way. It's the only way to go in my opinion. I have purchased a bunch of used muzzleloaders, and always use a bore light to check them out. One in particular had been shot and put away dirty years ago. I bought it cheap thinking the barrel was toast, it came with a partial can of goex 3f, that had been used in it. A little warm water, and clean as a whistle, no way that would be possible with pyrodex.

 

[William Lincoln]

Fresh powder of any kind burns best and most reliable. Old substitutes
(10 years or older ) are not as reliable or powerful as freshly produced.
I liked shooting Black MZ which was equal to black but cleaned up much
easier. Then it dried up.

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

I think problems with Pyrodex are over exaggerated.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

I have 4 lbs of Goex ready to pick up in a couple of weeks when I go to Calgary. That will be the 1st time shooting real BP. As mentioned I like Triple 7, and have lots but I want to try the BP and have some on hand.
Besides, no such thing as too much smoke....

 

[dave951]

I think problems with Pyrodex are over exaggerated.

Shoot a lot and you might change your mind. Aside from the fact that our competition rules only allow real black powder, my experience with Pyrodex in 40+ years of muzzleloading/black powder convinces me that the real deal is best hands down. All the guns I've seen ruined by corrosion were nearly all shot with Pyrodex, supposedly cleaned and oiled and put away only to corrode quietly in the safe. Never saw that happen anywhere nearly as bad with black. My brother ruined the bore of his 58 Remington like that. He went as far as to clean with boiling water, scrub, let it cool, wiped it down with alcohol to get rid of any excess moisture, oiled it and ran a grease patch down the barrel before putting it away for several years. Now the barrel is a sewer.

I go through upwards of 40lbs of Goex Old Eynsford per year and if real black weren't available, I'd either make it or quit muzzleloading. For those using Hazmat fees as an excuse, get with some like minded individuals and pool your order. Find a local reenactor group and pool with them. There are ways to amortize that fee out to where it's less than $1/lb. There's really no excuse to whine about hazmat if you get creative. If and when I order powder and caps, it's going to be 15+lbs and 3k caps and I'll pool with one of our team to increase the overall totals, all that for one hazmat fee.

 

[Bobby44]

Been using T7 in cap locks. Satisfied but I do clean properly. The flinters - that is a different story. Black powder all the way. I did think of trying black in the pan and T7 in the bore but why fool around with what works?

 

[Omahkapi'si]

As mentioned the Goex 2f powder will be the first actual black I have shot. 60 grains by volume is a good target load to start with for .50 cal?

 

[leadhoarder]

Yes it would be.

 

[azmntman]

70% positive ignition.

20% hang fires.

Flash in pans.

Having to mix real BP in to get positive ignition.

Doesn’t sound like imaginary ‘issues’ to me.

Read it again. he primes with real black powder. When I put 10 gr goex down the pipe it will go off with no issue every time in my flint lock.