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Really got to shoot the poor boy today and I need your help

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Southarkrob

40 Cal.
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I woke up at 5:45 am this morning wide awake and I decided to go shooting, I grabbed my PoorBoy and my Jeager and headed out. I shot at 25yds and my poor boy put them dead center but 4to6 inches low. I was shooting 60gr 2f Swiss, OP card, Mink oil lubed fiber wad and a 610 RB with .10 cut patch. What do I do to get the point of impact up (please forgive me as it has been 16 yrs since I have really shot open sites).
My Jeager also hit low with 90grs of 2f and a 530 ball with a .10 cut patch. I was shooting both off a rest. I am still getting wooshbang...I am trying less and less powder in the pan and am bumping it towards the flashholes. I am thinking it is the flints since both guns are doing it. I remember when I shot my last flint gun (16 yrs ago) I got almost instaneous ignition when I had good flints. I really appreciate the help. Robbie
 
In the .62 you could try more powder. Generally speaking, faster loads shoot higher in a long gun (but not always). Otherwise to get a gun to shoot higher, you need to lower the front sight or raise the rear sight.

The sights on most of my muzzleloaders are "fixed" and they shot low when I first got them. I had to file off a little of the front sight on each to get them to shoot high enough. Go slow and only take a few thousands of an inch at a time. There's no rush--it's harder to put material back on than it is to file it off! JMO--have fun.
 
What is your sight picture?

I would also try a .600 ball with a thicker path but first check your patches for condition after firing.

I would try just filling your pan, shutting the hammer over it and firing.
 
A couple of things here. First try shooting offhand. Often times people will shoot off from the bench because of your body position. Otherwise it's time to get the file out and slowly take down the FRONT sight. As to the "woosh boom" ,do not pile the powder towards the touch hole this creates a fuse effect which slows ignition. The prime should be level and at or below the touch hole. If anything you get faster ignition if the prime is tilted away from the hole. Keep in mind what you want is a flash not a fuse. Are you using 4f as primer? Dispute popular opinion oft times 4f will is superior for prime.

Snow
 
"The prime should be level and at or below the touch hole. If anything you get faster ignition if the prime is tilted away from the hole."

Snow on the roof, Larry Pletcher's research, published in "Muzzle Blasts" and on this and other forums, shows just the reverse. You get faster ignition with the prime tilted TOWARD the touchhole. Not trying to be contradictory, but his findings are reproducible.
 
You can get the point of impact up on the Jaeger by filing the front sight. The smoothie probably only has a bead?If that is the case you may just have to find a sight picture with "more barrel showing" above the breech and below the bead, or maybe bend the barrel a little.

For the whoosh-bang first make sure your breech is clean and dry! The only times I have ever had a problem with fuse ignition were when my touch hole was dirty or there was a crud cake or moisture in my breech. A dull flint can cause a klatch but, if the pan catches a spark and goes poof the flint has already done it's job. From there it's all about the touch hole and the main charge.
After scraping the breech face to make sure there is no crud cake, making sure there is no moisture in the breech area, and making sure the touch hole is clear, if you still have the fuse ignition problem you might try picking the vent after loading.
 
Thanks Guys... I appreciate the help. I was dead center of the target just low. I will try what you guys suggested. I think I need a thicker patch in the 54 also..the 530's and .10s loaded real easy even after 3 shots. I am going to try some .600's and pillow ticking patches in the smoothie. Probably will up my powder charge also. I just wish it would cool off some... I got there at 6:45 this morning and by 8:00 was sweating so much it wasnt fun any more.I really appreciate the help. Robbie
 
I don't know any one that uses a .010 patch. Unless you have EXTREMELY shallow rifling, it's just not going to fill the grooves. Have you looked at your patches?? Are they shredded??

Before you start filing, get a load!! Patch, ball and powder, that shoots the best.

Then you can start working on getting the thing to shoot to POA!!
 
I would also go for a heavier load and smaller ball thicker patch combo, my smoothbore shoots very well with a thumstarted combo, it will take some time for you to get it dialed in, remember to use a notebook and keep records of what works and what doesn't, what type/brand of barrel do you have on the smoothbore? is it a least 1" across on the outside at the breech? FWIW I have found 3f to worek best in all the large bore guns I have had except for one .72 which liked 2f, I do shoot medium to medium heavy loads adjusted for the finer powder, 80-90 gr 3f in the .62, 70-80 gr 3f in the .58 this would be like around 100-110 of 2f in the .62 many shoot 120 gr 2f in .62 smoothbores,I have always liked the less fowling and I get better overall performance with 3f in this bore with the three I have had, some do find 2f to work better, so one needs to try both in ones own gun.
 
To get past that" Whoosh-bang" delay, use your vent pick in the TH to open a hole in the main charge. Then, Don't BANK the priming powder AGAINST that TH. Any blocking of the TH will delay the ignition in the barrel.

As to raising point of impact, first increase that powder charge by 5 grain increments to see if the POI raises. And, go back to 50 yds, now that you see you have no windage problems.

Use a "sighter" pasted to the top of the bullseye, so that the balls will stay on the paper, since you know that your shots are hitting low.

When you establish a " Most accurate load," Then, and only then, do you consider filing down the front sight to raise the POI.

You will also need to try different ball diameters, and patch thicknesses to see if that won't raise the POI. For instance, my first shots with my then new Fowler, a .62 caliber gun, involved using 75 grains of FFg Goex, and a .600" diameter lead ball wrapped in a denim patch that measured approx. .017" thick. The balls all hit low- very low, at 25 yds. We ran a couple of shots over a chronograph and found that velocity was only in the 800+ MV range- way too load for that powder charge and ball. So, we got out the calipers and measured the bore, finding its bore diameter was NOT .615", but instead, .626-27" ! :shocked2: The barrel actually was not a 20 gauge barrel, but closer to a 19 gauge barrel(.629" nominally) So, I have acquired some .610 balls to try, and much thicker mattress ticking for patches. Since my RB shooting with that gun is minimal- I already have a deer rifle---- I have been concentrating on working up shot loads for the gun. I will now be working on a good RB load- and if the larger ball diameter works better, I will consider ordering a mold in that diameter.

Only when I settle on my RB load in that gun, based on all the testing- changing to 19 gauge OP wads increased the velocity of that same 75 grains of FFg Goex by an increase of almost 250 fps, and Raised that POI by 6 inches, simply because of the better seal I got with that OP wad behind the PRB------ Will I begin to file down the front sight to "zero" those sights to that load.

Oh, BTW, I have long been in the habit of using a "6 O'clock" hold with my iron sighted guns, so I want my ball to be hitting above the POA. That means I file my front sights SHORTER to get the POI higher on target, than other shooters who use a "center-hold", when aiming their iron sights at targets.

By using a 6 O'clock hold at, say a 50 yd. zero, I can still shoot at game out at 60,70, and even 80 yards and be pretty confident that the ball will hit at or above my aiming point. That is about as far as I want to shoot at deer sized game with a smooth bore shooting RBs. By using that "lower" hold, I can see any movement of the animal as I am taking up slack on my trigger, and applying pressure to release the sear to fire the gun.

My shooting began with handguns, and I became used to using the 6 O'clock hold from hours of shooting handguns with iron sights. Others have only shot guns zeroed to allow "center -holds". Use what is comfortable for you. :surrender:
 
Thanks Guys...you have given me alot to think about. I will try some of these things. I need to get some thicker patching and different balls. I really appreciate the help. I too use a 6:00 hold. I am going to shoot them some more before I file any sights. Robbie
 
Thats where I ran into trouble...I aimed higher and it hit a little lower. I dont understand it.
 
Gettin' frustrated with the slow ignition and dropping the muzzle before the gun is done going off? :idunno:

Try really, REALLY concentrating on follow thru.
Can be extra hard to do when your gun is aggravatin' you. :haha:
 
Is there a link for Pletcher's research? I speak only from Personal experiece and would be VERY interested in serious study to the contrary.

Snow
 
Jethro..you are probably right... I bet I am dropping the muzzle... this woosh boom is geting frustrating. Plus it was so stinking hot.. I was wiping sweat outta my eyes by 8:00am... I am ready for some cool weather. I want to hunt mainly with these 2 guns this year and I gotta get alot betther than I am now. I am going to keep trying. Thanks for the help. Robbie
 
Ditto on uping the charge on the .62. When I was trying different loads with my .69 Charleville 60 grs 3f hit way low at 50 yds; 80 grains puts it almost dead on.

Re: the Whoosh-Bang: if the whoosh is occuring right away, (i.e. as soon as the Hammer falls) then it's not the Flint. If there is a slight delay after the Hammer falls, however, then perhaps it is. How good is the Spark from the Frizzen?

Eric
 

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