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Recoil shields on brass frames

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Jappo

Poco Loco
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Didn't want to steal a thread a member has on polishing brass.
I have this PR FIE frame that was beaten up pretty good. The arbor was loose also. I removed the arbor and filed down smooth the recoil shield, removing the indentations. Screwed the arbor back in as it should go. Now the cylinder to barrel gap is large. The arbor is a little loose but I think pinning it in it should tighten up. To correct the gap issue, a Pietta cylinder might work since they are longer than any of the other revolvers I've seen. And sometimes the ratchet part is also bigger around. Either that or remove some metal from barrel, or from the frame itself.
Haven't tried any of those things. As I found another frame for all the parts I have off the FIE.
 

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Didn't want to steal a thread a member has on polishing brass.
I have this PR FIE frame that was beaten up pretty good. The arbor was loose also. I removed the arbor and filed down smooth the recoil shield, removing the indentations. Screwed the arbor back in as it should go. Now the cylinder to barrel gap is large. The arbor is a little loose but I think pinning it in it should tighten up. To correct the gap issue, a Pietta cylinder might work since they are longer than any of the other revolvers I've seen. And sometimes the ratchet part is also bigger around. Either that or remove some metal from barrel, or from the frame itself.
Haven't tried any of those things. As I found another frame for all the parts I have off the FIE.
As Mike pointed out the actual ratchet face is not supposed to be the rear barrier for cylinder support in percussion guns against recoil, the recoil shield is and that's why the indentations are in it from the area just outside the ratchet well Mike referred to as the web, between the nipple ports. This is why the ratchet is chewing into the bottom of the ratchet well. What needs doing is the recoil shield needs building up again with a steel bushing to bring it back to it's full height supporting against the push back by the cylinder from recoil.
When the arbor loosens in it's brass thread seats it's the brass that has stretched and loosened up on the steel arbor which increases the barrel/cylinder gap. The only permanent fix I'm aware of is to steel bush it back to original spec.
 
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As Mike pointed out the actual ratchet face is not supposed to be the rear barrier for cylinder support in percussion guns against recoil, the recoil shield is and that's why the indentations are in it from the area just outside the ratchet well Mike referred to as the web, between the nipple ports. This is why the ratchet is chewing into the bottom of the ratchet well. What needs doing is the recoil shield needs building up again with a steel bushing to bring it back to it's full height supporting the push back against the cylinder from recoil.
Now that you mentioned it, I didn't notice the ratchet well. Actually I couldn't see it even with my glasses on. I do see it in the picture when I zoom in.
 

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