I did and they can
Next week I will find out what the requirements for proofing the gun will be. That will be necessary in order for me to shoot it legally.
Recommendations for a first flintlock rifle
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I did and they can
Next week I will find out what the requirements for proofing the gun will be. That will be necessary in order for me to shoot it legally.
Hopefully the marks don’t need to be on top of the barrel. The state proof houses still have historic looking proof marks, but the federal eagle for powder type… not so muchI did and they can
Next week I will find out what the requirements for proofing the gun will be. That will be necessary in order for me to shoot it legally.
https://www.cip-bobp.org/sites/default/files/2017-06/Allemagne_EN.pdf
Well keep us posted on what you find out. I'm currently doing a Woodsrunner for my first build. I went with Walnut and got a very nice piece. So far I've had only a couple of minor fitting requirements.I did and they can
Next week I will find out what the requirements for proofing the gun will be. That will be necessary in order for me to shoot it legally.
The button on the patch box lid latch had a little flash on it which prevented it from fitting at first. 5 minute fix with a needle file.
A couple of spots on the stock where I knocked the wood down a touch to better fit the hardware there. Could have lived without doing it.
Last the trigger was a few thousandths too thick and wouldn't fit the slot of the trigger plate. Took a bit of time with file and sandpaper but it slimmed down nicely and fits perfect now. Just take your time if you hit this last one.
We‘ll see. As far as I know they need to be visible when the gun is completely assembled….
I haven't yet. That's the question of the day.
I obtained some 1/8 inch thick walnut sheets that match my stock quite well. So I plan to test a few methods on those. In the meantime I'm gathering supplies and sanding the stock.
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
Was into the video until he filled the pan from the horn. Thats why they make pan chargers.
That cocked hat is the same as mine, mine was made by me.
He frock was custom made by the same gal that made mine. I have the pants to match.
The biggest advantage to the Kibler is the caliber choice.
I have a Chamber's late Ketland lock on mine. He did not have the caliber that I wanted.
So I picked and chose all my parts from Muzzle Loader Supply, or Littlerock.
I would have done a nicer job, if Kebler was around back then.
That cocked hat is the same as mine, mine was made by me.
He frock was custom made by the same gal that made mine. I have the pants to match.
The biggest advantage to the Kibler is the caliber choice.
I have a Chamber's late Ketland lock on mine. He did not have the caliber that I wanted.
So I picked and chose all my parts from Muzzle Loader Supply, or Littlerock.
I would have done a nicer job, if Kebler was around back then.
One can either fill the pan from a prime powder charger or use the same powder as used for the main charge from the horn. It takes some practice to prime from the horn and not overfill the pan.
After watching the assembly video of the Woodsrunner one thing is not quite clear to me:
The barrel (and other parts) are fixed to the stock by pins. When cleaning the gun I understand it is best to remove the barrel and disassemble the gun.
Will not the pins become loose quickly when you remove them frequently? Or am I missing something?
The barrel (and other parts) are fixed to the stock by pins. When cleaning the gun I understand it is best to remove the barrel and disassemble the gun.
Will not the pins become loose quickly when you remove them frequently? Or am I missing something?
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Some will argue, but my pinned guns (almost all of them) almost never have the barrel taken out of the wood.
Before assembly, coat the underside of the barrel with some good rust preventative, I prefer R.I.G. by Birchwood Casey, and you can go years and years with no need to unpin the barrel.
I see. That makes sense. Thanks for the answer!
Do you use (hot) water to clean the barrel even though it is still attached to the stock?
@French Colonial is quite correct. When the barrel pinned to the stock removal of the barrel for cleaning is vastly overrated. Taking care to block the touch hole and use of a rag to catch fluid at the muzzle will allow @matt48 to fully clean his rifle. Upon initial assembly after the stock is finished, wax the barrel channel in the stock and apply a good coating of a rust inhibiting grease and one's grandchildren won't find rust.
Hot, maybe even just warm water with a few drops of liquid dish soap will remove all the fouling and oils from the barrel. Dry the stock immediately after cleaning, and the finish won't be harmed.
Bobby MacAlphin
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Yes sir been priming from the horn for 30 some years now !
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