Refinish a curly maple flintlock

[Snooterpup]

Hello all, I wanted to tap the storehouse of knowledge to keep me from making a mistake. The background is I was given what I believe was an assembled kit flintlock rifle with a beautiful curly maple stock. The original builder, who shall remain nameless, did a hurry-up linseed oil finish that never truly hardened. The finish was somewhat sticky after 5 to 6 years. The stock was poorly shaped and left too blocky. After much scraping, carving and removing excess wood I am ready to use TOW’s aquafortis and their original oil finish. After carefully reading the instructions, I noticed issues using aquafortis on an oil finished stock. I’ve cleaned and sanded the stock but am concerned that some of the previous oil finish may have soaked deep in the stock causing a poor result. Should I forge ahead with this traditional method or use a more conventional stain such as Laurel Mountain stains and follow with the oil finish? Your collective thoughts are geatly appreciated! Snooterpup

 

[Art Caputo]

A good indication that you have taken down the oil finish is that when wiped down with water, the stock whiskered up. Residual oil can also effect staining.

 

[Snooterpup]

Thanks Art!
Great! I took everything off the rifle leaving only the bare wood stock and tried the wet cloth technique and happy to say the stock had whiskered. TOW suggests degreasing 0000 steel wool to smooth the whiskers and to repeat three times. Can I accomplish the same goal with 320 grit sandpaper or would that be too coarse? Many Thanks!,
Snooterpup

 

[tenngun]

I’ve never had good luck with aqua fortes, so this may be all hoooiey coming from me. So take it for what’s its worth. I understand that if you use steel wool on the stock you risk leaving small slivers of steel wool in the wood that will react with the acid.

 

[Art Caputo]

Thanks Art!
Great! I took everything off the rifle leaving only the bare wood stock and tried the wet cloth technique and happy to say the stock had whiskered. TOW suggests degreasing 0000 steel wool to smooth the whiskers and to repeat three times. Can I accomplish the same goal with 320 grit sandpaper or would that be too coarse? Many Thanks!,
Snooterpup

I have found 320 grit to work well for removing the wiskers, and a final finish of the wood. In my experience, 0000 steel wool is a bit finer, and closer to a 400 grit sandpaper. I also like the maroon ScotchBrite for wisker removal and final finish. If using Aquafortis, steel wool can leave small bits of steel in the grain that will react with Aquafortis and produce black specs.....a problem.

 

[Snooterpup]

I’ve never had good luck with aqua fortes, so this may be all hoooiey coming from me. So take it for what’s its worth. I understand that if you use steel wool on the stock you risk leaving small slivers of steel wool in the wood that will react with the acid.

Hello Tenngun,
Yes, they cautioned that as well but said to be certain the stock is wiped clean of any steel wool. That is why I think I’d rather use 320, then 600 for the final whiskering. Any thoughts on steel wool alternatives? Thanks for the caution, I’m not for the steel wool.
Snooterpup

 

[LawrenceA]

Only ever used aqua fortis once but done a lot of walnut stocks.
I use a scotchbrite pad or steel wool to whisker as I believe it snares the whiskers and removes them whereas sandpaper doesn't.
I have also used steel wool with no ill effect after oiling to fill the grain.
You may need to whisker more than 3 times. When the grain does not raise you are done.
Wetting the stock also shows you any areas that need more work as deeper scratched show as dark lines.
If you use a heat source to dry the wood after wetting it is more effective (in my opinion).
Metho or acetone can be used to hep remedy oil on/in the wood.
Generally you will know if oil is a problem because it will clog fine sandpaper or whatever you are using.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The maroon or gray Scotchbrite pads are an excellent alternative to steel wool.

 

[sdilts]

I quit using 0000 years ago and switched to 320. It works better. There is no need to use 600, you're just wasting your time and sandpaper. You're just smoothing wood, not polishing metal.

 

[Pete G]

The maroon or gray Scotchbrite pads are an excellent alternative to steel wool.

That is what I use also.

 

[Rudyard]

Well Lawrence A has good info. but the stain I find most usefull is Fiebings Leather stain ', British tan' or some times darkened by a bit of 'Marine black 'as required .
Rudyard

 

[Heelerau]

I use fine steel wool, and whisker over the kettle on the stove, also good for raising dents.

 

[Zonie]

I used steel wool once to whisker a stock. Lesson learned. Never again !!!!

The steel fragments created thousands of small rusty looking freckles and I had to completely re-sand and re-whisker the stock to get rid of them.

If there is any chance of some of the old linseed oil remaining in the wood, I would douse the stock with some automotive disk brake cleaner. (Do it outside in the fresh air.)

 

[user 48679]

steel wool can leave small bits of steel in the grain

If a strong magnet is run over the stock after rubbing with 0000 steel wool, the residue will get disappeared...….

 

[Pete G]

If a strong magnet is run over the stock after rubbing with 0000 steel wool, the residue will get disappeared...….

Most will be gone; some will remain. Listen to Zonie.

 

[springfield art]

The maroon or gray Scotchbrite pads are an excellent alternative to steel wool.

Good tip! I'd not thought of that!

 

[RB POWELL]

Hello all, I wanted to tap the storehouse of knowledge to keep me from making a mistake. The background is I was given what I believe was an assembled kit flintlock rifle with a beautiful curly maple stock. The original builder, who shall remain nameless, did a hurry-up linseed oil finish that never truly hardened. The finish was somewhat sticky after 5 to 6 years. The stock was poorly shaped and left too blocky. After much scraping, carving and removing excess wood I am ready to use TOW’s aquafortis and their original oil finish. After carefully reading the instructions, I noticed issues using aquafortis on an oil finished stock. I’ve cleaned and sanded the stock but am concerned that some of the previous oil finish may have soaked deep in the stock causing a poor result. Should I forge ahead with this traditional method or use a more conventional stain such as Laurel Mountain stains and follow with the oil finish? Your collective thoughts are geatly appreciated! Snooterpup

I'm not the expert here, but I read a lot. I would avoid steel wool on the stock. Scotch Brite seems to be a favored option. It does not leave tiny bits of metal in the stock, resulting in dark spots. Apparently the acid in the finish reacts with the steel: freckles. Just read the magnet post. Might work. Might.

 

[EC121]

I burnish the whiskers down with a piece of antler, but any hard smooth object will do. It leaves a shiny smooth finish ready for stain. If there is stray whisker or two popping up after staining just burnish it down.

 

[Pork Chop]

My father always used a chicken bone.

 

[Vaino]

I use 220 grit for the final sanding and whiskering. After the stains {Dangler} have completely dried, 0000 steel wool removes any unabsorbed stain. The next step is applying LMF sealer w/ 2 wipe on/ wipe off coats w/ a 10 min soak in time and when it's dry, the 0000 steel wool is used again to remove any dried finish on the stock. 2 finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat and it's done. After each time the 0000 steel wool is used, the stock is thoroughly vacuumed.

This procedure yields a finish that makes the stock look like there isn't any finish on it.....Fred