Refinishing stock on CVA Mtn. Rifle

[topbike]

I acquired a CVA Mountain rifle that had seen better days. I got it because it is intact except for the barrel wedges and the barrel is marked Made in USA. The bore is fine and I have disassembled the lock and trigger set cleaned and oiled them (they had a lot of surface rust) and I am now turning my attention to the stock. I have removed all the old finish being careful not to take to much off around the metal work and am ready to stain and refinish. I would like it to look as close to original as possible. What color stain or refinishing method do you recommend?
Thanks, John

 

[don hepler]

What wood is it? I like the Laurel Mountain Forge stains. Red maple or if you like it dark, then Nut Brown or mix for something in between. Try it on some scrap wood, that's similar color. Some of the mystery woods, will need some type of sealer, prior to staining, or it will splotch. Finish with something like Tung Oil, or True Oil or any finish that you like. I've use Minwax stains, and had good results. Colors like Red Mahogany, Red maple, even Gun Stock. I start with light color, and work until it gets as dark as I want it. Getting it to the original color, would require some experimenting. Minwax "gun stock" might be the closest, but I'm not sure. I looked up one on a for sale sight, and it looks to be somewhere between brown and red, like so many other guns, that I see. It also appeared to be hardwood.

 

[don hepler]

I forgot to mention a mix of dark walnut and red maple. But, wipe it out on scrap or cardboard, or it will be too dark. Work up on the color, or you'll be sanding it all off.

 

[topbike]

Thanks, I am not a woodworker or gun builder by any stretch of the imagination. Funny thing is I was looking at minwax last night and picked out the same ones you mentioned as being possibilities and also a new one called Colonial Maple.
Maybe I'm not too far off the mark.
John

 

[don hepler]

Well, this is a good way to get started. I keep several cans in stock. I use them on modern and traditional guns. I almost always use a mix. Most guns have a little red color even if they are walnut. Years ago I went into an old hardware store, and told him I was looking for stain to refinish an old rifle. He said you need to mix some red mahogany with some walnut. I don't pour them into a mix, I just wipe a little of each, and the rag become saturated with the right color. I use rubber gloves, and lint free cloth, or cheese cloth to apply it. The stain will probably raise the grain, and you will have to use wet/dry sand paper to smooth it back down. A sealer will help prevent this. I usually wipe a small amount of water on the stock, to raise the grain and then do the final sanding anyway. If you use steel wool, you stand the chance of leaving small particles behind. Regular sand paper leaves the grit behind, that's why I use wet/dry automotive type sandpaper.

 

[topbike]

Thanks, but I don't understand what you mean when you say "I don't pour them into a mix, I just wipe a little of each, and the rag become saturated with the right color". Do you just dip the cloth into each give it a squeeze and then you have the color you want and apply it to the stock?
Sorry, but I'm pretty thick when it comes to things like this.

 

[don hepler]

I will take a clean piece of scrap wood, add just a small amount of walnut stain and rub it over the wood, by the time I finish the rag is almost dry, then dab the same rag in red maple, and rub it over the walnut stained wood. This way if it needs more brown, then add brown, or more red, then add red. Work slow from light to dark colors. It only takes a dab on the cloth. If you get too much stain on the cloth, wipe it off on a clean piece of cardboard. For a beginner, there is a tendency to over stain by having the cloth too wet. Practice on scrap wood. Sometimes, I might have 3 or 4 different colors before I get the shade, I'm looking for. One other note, those mystery hardwood stocks, will never finish as nice as walnut or maple. In most cases the factory finish is as good as it gets.

 

[topbike]

Thank you, Hadden West! Now I get it. I'm hoping to start on it this weekend. Hopefully I can post a pic of the finished product next week.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Nice buy! I myself just picked up one in 50-cal (complete, less 1 wedge) for only $50 and I just had to remove surface rust! And one in 54-cal, in excellent shape, just sold for $485 on Gun Broker. Imagine that!

The early USA made ones had barrels by either Sharon or Douglas and either have the reputation to be very accurate!

I am switching the wedges I want to use to be steel wedges, so if you want the 1 wedge I had - PM me your mailing address.

I will also be re-doing my stock, which is birch. And I'll be going for a darker finish, topped by hand-rubbed coats of Arm-R-Seal wiping finish.