• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Removal of stuck patch and hardware

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I use a steel and brass range rod for loading,it has a flat end and if I try to use it for cleaning the flat end jams in the patent breech on my TC Seneca so I use the ramrod to clean as it has a more egg shaped end.
 
I have one but I have never found it to work very well. Definitely a two person job

Depending on how your rod is made, you can hook the rod on a stationary object or tie a cord using half hitches to the rod and the other end on a stationary object and then pull on the rifle. If the rod is smooth a cleaning jag etc. will keep the cord from slipping.
After threading a well designed puller in the ball of course.

You can pull on the rod but then you need to make the gun stationary which is usually problematic without damaging the wood on your rifle.
 
Depending on how your rod is made, you can hook the rod on a stationary object or tie a cord using half hitches to the rod and the other end on a stationary object and then pull on the rifle. If the rod is smooth a cleaning jag etc. will keep the cord from slipping.
After threading a well designed puller in the ball of course.

You can pull on the rod but then you need to make the gun stationary which is usually problematic without damaging the wood on your rifle.
I actually have "metal" threaded ends on both ends of my wood rods so I can add a T handle etc if I have to pull a ball etc. As i mentioned previously I also found it helps to drill and pin the ends so they do not "pop" off when least expected!
 
Well after shooting yesterday and cleaning the bore, my cleaning patch remained in the bore. I retrieved the 50 yr old ramrod and a patch puller. The end of the ramrod came off and was lodged in the bore. I considered busting a cap to blow it all out but I was at home and the neighbors would throw a fit. So I pulled out the trusty compressor cranked it to 140 lbs pointed in a safe direction and it blew right out.
I put the old ramrod in the safe never again to be used for its intended use.
I had to take mine to the gunshop I bought it from they sent it to their repair guy whom tore it completely apart. Took them 2 hours to get it out of the bore. You need to remove the breech
 
I have purchased from Townsends many different accessories. Pricing on some itmes can be "high" so you need to choose carefully.(IMHO)
Yes somewhat of a niche business you pay a little more but all quality items that he sells from many small vendors at a show. Things arrive promptly and a very nice customer service should you have any questions. He’s big on 18th century cooking. Another place to add to your favorites. I purchased a few things from him over the last few years and am completely happy. Especially my Tricorn which they sell a variety of qualities.
 
I'd love to find one of those metal tipped nozzles you have there.
The plastics coming with those kits today are junk.
Its almost impossible to get it over a touch hole & blow out the load.
Most of the time I trickle powder into the touch hole & shoot the load out.
I'd love to find one of those metal tipped nozzles you have there.
The plastics coming with those kits today are junk.
Its almost impossible to get it over a touch hole & blow out the load.
Most of the time I trickle powder into the touch hole & shoot the load out.
Yes, they do. I have the identical model shown in Snake's photo for my flintlocks, and another one designed for caplocks. I bought both of them decades ago when coaching 4-H.

I will add this thought though - I always used this method first. If other methods have already been tried in removing whatever object is stuck in the barrel - it might be too late.

For example:

If a hole has been made all the way through a patched ball when a screw type puller was attempted, I doubt the Co2 tool will work. If a ball was short-started with two patches (student was busy visiting while loading) and instead of using the discharger immediately the shooter decides to beat the charge all the way home with a roofing hammer (yes, he really did) no way was the discharger able to overcome such a wedged cylinder of lead.

There are other scenarios but you get the idea.

At one point I felt the need to slug the barrel of a .54 caliber rifle. Found a lead conical laying around the shop of an appropriate diameter. Pushed it all the way home with no patch or powder - just some lube. Placed a 5 qt. ice cream pail on the floor with a hand towel in the bottom, had the muzzle of the rifle an inch or so above the towel and used the Co2 discharger. Bullet ricocheted off the towel, one wall, the ceiling and a second wall before coming to rest.
 
i use one too, but for my fainter I use a basketball needle, I just wrap it slightly behind the opening with some scotch tape to seal touch hole, it works for me!
Jim
 
Well after shooting yesterday and cleaning the bore, my cleaning patch remained in the bore. I retrieved the 50 yr old ramrod and a patch puller. The end of the ramrod came off and was lodged in the bore. I considered busting a cap to blow it all out but I was at home and the neighbors would throw a fit. So I pulled out the trusty compressor cranked it to 140 lbs pointed in a safe direction and it blew right out.
I put the old ramrod in the safe never again to be used for its intended use.
I have had them work well with percussion gun problems, but never successfully with flintlock.
Just this past weekend I got distracted and dry balled my 40 cal flinter at the Colorado Squirrel Rifle Championships. Was shown that a rubber-tipped blower will work on a flinter if you really mash the tip down hard on the vent. The rifle was lain on its side so the tip could get some real weight put on it.

When making ramrods- and replacements- I put brass or iron tips on, first epoxying them in place, and then pinning twice, with the pins about a half inch apart and at 90 degrees.

I am very firmly against the two-man approach to pulling a ball, one on the rifle, one on the rod. Means someone has a gun pointed at them. Pulling a ball or lost patch is not sufficient reason to do that. I keep a long leather bootlace in my kit to tie to the rod and a good anchor. Once sacrificed my horn strap in the name of safely pulling a dry ball.
 
I am very firmly against the two-man approach to pulling a ball, one on the rifle, one on the rod. Means someone has a gun pointed at them.
I agree.
Shooting them out is easier, but if someone wants to use that device,
I'd put it in fork of a tree & pull it that way.
 
Last edited:
Yes, they do. I have the identical model shown in Snake's photo for my flintlocks, and another one designed for caplocks. I bought both of them decades ago when coaching 4-H.

I will add this thought though - I always used this method first. If other methods have already been tried in removing whatever object is stuck in the barrel - it might be too late.

For example:

If a hole has been made all the way through a patched ball when a screw type puller was attempted, I doubt the Co2 tool will work. If a ball was short-started with two patches (student was busy visiting while loading) and instead of using the discharger immediately the shooter decides to beat the charge all the way home with a roofing hammer (yes, he really did) no way was the discharger able to overcome such a wedged cylinder of lead.

There are other scenarios but you get the idea.

At one point I felt the need to slug the barrel of a .54 caliber rifle. Found a lead conical laying around the shop of an appropriate diameter. Pushed it all the way home with no patch or powder - just some lube. Placed a 5 qt. ice cream pail on the floor with a hand towel in the bottom, had the muzzle of the rifle an inch or so above the towel and used the Co2 discharger. Bullet ricocheted off the towel, one wall, the ceiling and a second wall before coming to rest.
The co2 dischargers work pretty good.
 
Back
Top