Removal of stuck patch and hardware

[Sooty Scot]

Yes, they do. I have the identical model shown in Snake's photo for my flintlocks, and another one designed for caplocks. I bought both of them decades ago when coaching 4-H.

I will add this thought though - I always used this method first. If other methods have already been tried in removing whatever object is stuck in the barrel - it might be too late.

For example:

If a hole has been made all the way through a patched ball when a screw type puller was attempted, I doubt the Co2 tool will work. If a ball was short-started with two patches (student was busy visiting while loading) and instead of using the discharger immediately the shooter decides to beat the charge all the way home with a roofing hammer (yes, he really did) no way was the discharger able to overcome such a wedged cylinder of lead.

There are other scenarios but you get the idea.

At one point I felt the need to slug the barrel of a .54 caliber rifle. Found a lead conical laying around the shop of an appropriate diameter. Pushed it all the way home with no patch or powder - just some lube. Placed a 5 qt. ice cream pail on the floor with a hand towel in the bottom, had the muzzle of the rifle an inch or so above the towel and used the Co2 discharger. Bullet ricocheted off the towel, one wall, the ceiling and a second wall before coming to rest.

Did the ricocheting make it harder to read the slug?

 

[Rum River]

Did the ricocheting make it harder to read the slug?

Almost!!

 

[Bunk]

I have posted elsewhere my system is to use a slightly smaller than bore size brass brush. Wrap the parch around the brush.
The brush holds the patch and helps push the patch into the grooves. I use a .45 caliber brush on a .50 Smith and it works very well. Also that is what is used in the .50 caliber GRR Plains rifle when I shoot it.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

 

[Salty]

I have posted elsewhere my system is to use a slightly smaller than bore size brass brush. Wrap the parch around the brush.
The brush holds the patch and helps push the patch into the grooves. I use a .45 caliber brush on a .50 Smith and it works very well. Also that is what is used in the .50 caliber GRR Plains rifle when I shoot it.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

Tried that. It works well. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[ZUG]

I'd love to find one of those metal tipped nozzles you have there.
The plastics coming with those kits today are junk.
Its almost impossible to get it over a touch hole & blow out the load.
Most of the time I trickle powder into the touch hole & shoot the load out.

I have not seen those brass tips for the flintlocks for many years. I have one that came with my CO2 discharger along with a musket and nipple accessory. I have made a brass tip as shown by soldering two brass tubes together and then soldering them to a threaded base to attach to the CO2 discharger. The small brass tubes can be purchased from a good hobby store and they are made by K&S. One tube will slide into the other so the fit is a slip fit and when soldered together it becomes one. If you are willing to go through a bit of extra trouble you can anneal the end the larger diameter tube and swage the end down to fit your flint vent hole as they did for the original and then solder it to a threaded base that fits your CO2 discharger. This is not hard to do but it does take some time to get it right. If I get time I may just try to make some up but I have a lot going on at the moment - "money talks - no body walks" ---

 

[TFoley]

I have posted elsewhere my system is to use a slightly smaller than bore size brass brush. Wrap the parch around the brush. The brush holds the patch and helps push the patch into the grooves. I use a .45 caliber brush on a .50 Smith and it works very well. Also that is what is used in the .50 caliber GRR Plains rifle when I shoot it. Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

Hey, that exactly what I do, too!