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Removing an Unfired Load

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Bountyhunter

50 Cal.
Joined
Oct 5, 2005
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I am reading a lot about removing unfired loads on several forums. I read about loads going off and launching ramrods into the ozone layer, and hands and fingers getting wounded trying to pull balls.

Always striving for safety so that I get home safe and sound, I made a little device to prevent as much accidents as possible. If I hunt and dont shoot, I dont use that load the next day.

I went down to the local tire shop where they were doing some truck tires and got a valve stem out of a big truck wheel. I took the core out and cut it off to about an inch and a half, cleaned it up with a neck reamer, and then silver soldered it on a spare nipple. I just carry it in my loading bag. If I end up with an unfired load, I just remove my good nipple and screw the modified nipple in and put an air hose to it. I put a thick pad down on the ground and hold the barrel loose on it and then just blow the charge out. The pad catches the ball, but the powder usually gets blown away. I find this preferable to shooting the load out. I have a small air compressor. You could also air up an air bubble and carry it in your hunting vehicle, it doesnt take a lot of air to blow the barrel clean.

B
 
That's a good idea. I was told to remove the cap and nipple and pour in water to deactivate the powder.Then yank the ball out. Haven't done it yet but sounds like it would be a messy task. I like you'r way better.
 
I would approach this with two different options---the idea of using compressed air and a modified nipple is great. There are also the Carbon Dioxide powered "unloaders" on the market---which do work if you follow instructions. I have used one of these and find it to be useful---with the exception of flintlocks. Of course the old fashioned ball puller works if you screw it in tight enough and you do need two people to do the job. My thoughts on the "old saw" regarding pouring water into the nipple hole or vent---I personally wouldn't do that. :hatsoff:
 
Never heard of one going off while it was being pulled myself. The water goes down the barrel and cuts the fouling so one person can easily pull the ball. Same thing you do with a stuck ramrod/patch jag. A liquid lube works as well. I hunt from a clean barrel so I don't use anything except the puller jag to remove a load. Normally I shoot it out.
 
is there a reason for pulling a load out of a barrel? especially a rifled barrel where u can only shoot a ball....

i sometimes pull the ball out of mine so i can put shot in it but i use the same wads for both with a bare ball so it only takes a 1/4 turn of the screw in the ball sprue to just slide it out the barrel.

ive never pulled a load after a hunt nor has my father. in fact his gun still has the same load of 90g FFF and prb that was put in it 2 years ago. he just hasnt shot it.


so, i guess my question is why? :hmm:
 
I have 2 CVA percusion pistols that have been loaded for over 10 years. I'm extemely leary about the effects of the barrel condition after having the charge in there so long. I read in either Muzzleblasts or Muzzleloader about tests on barrels that were loaded for extended periods of time, and the news wasn't good. I always pour water down the bore to liquify the charge in chase something goes arye, it won't discharge. I might, probably have to unscrew the drum, and remove the breechplug and push her out.
 
Of course the old fashioned ball puller works if you screw it in tight enough and you do need two people to do the job.

FYI...for some reason that might have been your experience, but that statement needs to be clarified for those who may not know.

I routinely pull my unfired loads a couple dozen times a year...done it for about 15 years...screw the ball puller into the ball and pull it out.

At the range, I use range rods with a wooden ball attached on one end...when hunting, I carry a T-Handle in the pouch...both give the grip & leverage to slide the ball right out
 
This is a little trinket that is easy to make and a life saver if it is needed. One wooden craft ball and one capscrew with threads to fit your ramrod end.

rodball1.jpg



I carry that one with the shotgun mostly. Sorry about the shape, but that one is a few years old. You can use a stud and make them fancy as you wish by using horn instead of the cheap wooden ball if you wish. This one was just simple with the things I had on hand that day.
 
I picked up some like that from October Country a few years ago...they work great...I like the balls better than a T-handle, but carry a T-handle hunting as it lays flatter, can hook it between tree limbs if I ever needed to...never needed to use it all these years hunting but sure as I leave it home I'll need it!
::
 
If your rod has threads, which it has if you use a handle, a second jag and a leather thong with a noose will do just as well 90 percent of the time. It takes up little room, is handy for carrying game, and a host of other things also. That is what I usually carry with a Knight type long patch jag in the bag.
 
I have a ball puller, one that screws in the ramrod but no handle. Since it is a wooden rod, would getting a cleaning rod with the T handle work? Something you can take apart and put in you'r pack?
 
I think that would work.

I recently used a screw to pull a ball because I had thrown the powder down a wet bore. The bore got wet with a sopping wet cleaning patch that wasn't followed by a dry one. The ball came right out with very little fight -- one hand on the rifle, one hand on the rod just above the muzzle and pulling in opposite directions.

Having the bore pretty clean helped I'm sure. If I ever have to pull another one, the first step will be a cleaning patch or two to get rid of any fouling that might be in the way.
 
I have a ball puller, one that screws in the ramrod but no handle. Since it is a wooden rod, would getting a cleaning rod with the T handle work? Something you can take apart and put in you'r pack?

Sure, that would work...just be sure you don't buy one of those cleaning rods that has a factory attached swiveling handle on it...you need to be able to screw a T-handle, etc, onto one end so you can tightern it up and have enough torque to twist a ball puller screw into the lead ball...if it has a factory attached rotating handle, the rod won't turn with the handle.I gradually replaced all my wooden rods with brass ones, tapped 10/32" on both ends so it's very easy to use the one rod for everything
 
Where would I get something like that roundball? If I broke this wooden one I'd be outta luck.
I get mine at October Country...John will make them any finished length you want...solid brass or tubular brass.
I also have him to add a nice 1.5" non-slip cross-hatch pattern in the brass on the end under the muzzle so they're easy to pull out of the thimbles.

I use solid brass to get more weight out under the barrels to make the muzzle just hang on the target, helps my accuracy...fine for sitting on a deer stand but a little hefty for several hours of still hunting.

I use slightly lighter tubular ones made out of heavy .060" wall thickness with pinned ends, on a .45cal squirrel rifle and a .54cal smoothbore that I tend to carry/still hunt around with so they're easier for carrying.

Both types of these brass rods are very strong, and I never worry about one of them folding up while out hunting...$20 delivered from Idaho to NC...tell John a guy in NC referred you to him
 
in fact his gun still has the same load of 90g FFF and prb that was put in it 2 years ago. he just hasnt shot it

Don't mean to offend you sir but I believe this is not wise for a couple reasons - Safety as well as harmful to your barrel :m2c:
 
sooooo..... why? what is the reason for pulling a load? for fun? the breech and barrel is just as shiney as it was new in dads gun. shot it yesterday and cleaned it. it went off just like always and hit right where i pointed it......

and u wont offend me unless u start calling me names :)
 
is a moisture thing? im sure if the powder was wet it would hurt the barrel.... we just stick a lubed toothpick in the touch hole.
 
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