removing chrome plating

[bhuch5]

I have a Cabela's Investarm sporterized Hawken rifle with the chrome-lined 1:48 twist barrel. I cannot get this barrel to shoot rb's ,maxi-balls or reals worth a hoot. My son would like to use this rifle on an upcoming deer hunt but it just won't shoot.We are talking 4inch 20 yard patterns (they are not groups).
My thinking is that the chrome-lining may be just too slick for good bullet grab. I would like to remove the chrome and go back to a plain steel barrel.
My question is this: "Does anyone here have ANY experience with removing chrome-lining from a barrel, either good or bad ?" Should I abandon this idea and look for a different barrel or proceed with removal options? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Bruce H

 

[54ball]

Check the tightness of your wedge pin and tenon. If loose you will have a wandering zero.

Check the sights especially if they are adjustable. MY GPRs Lousy adjustable primitive look sight had a horrible wandering zero.

If using a substitute powder, make sure that it is fresh as sometimes these loose potency and consistency.

Have someone besides you or your son, preferably with BP experience, shoot the rifle. This just confirms that there is no problem with the nut behind the buttplate. :wink:
Or you you can swap out who loads the rifle and mock load it during the session. "Empty gun that the shooter thinks is loaded." This checks for a flinch.

Make sure while shooting your not trying to chase the balls around the target, subconsciously.

If this was based on one session, sometimes it's just not your day.

Oh, trying to remove the chrome would only result in disaster to the barrel IMHO.

Lastly pick one projectile and stick with it. It only compounds the problem when you try to change up too much too soon. Reals, Roundballs and Conicals all have different impacts and the rifle will have to be adjusted for each.

 

[bhuch5]

Thanks for your reply.A little more background:
This rifle is an ongoing project over the last 3 1/2 years. I have looked into anything mechanical that could go wrong and all is good and tight. I have used Goex 2f and 3f and in desperation Pyro P all with the same lackluster results.Have tried balls (2 sizes)and patch(.010 up to.020 cut at muzzle) then maxis then reals.Testing with each has been pretty thorough.My Homemade underhammer groups at 2inches at 50yards and is only getting better as barrel breaks in so I don't think flinch is a factor. Have read a lot and can't find any that say chrome-lined barrels are really great yet.
I am looking into having chrome removed professionally by reverse electrolysis.
Thank you, Bruce H

 

[54ball]

You see I had no idea of experience level.
That my work but I would not spend too much. Sometimes there are factory flaws in the barrel, Sometimes with the rifling, sometimes the crown.

Have you tried a felt wad under the patched ball, might help
:idunno:
Good Luck

 

[Birddog6]

You are gonna screw up the barrel trying to remove the chrome. If ya can't get it to shoot, sell it or trade it or try this:

I suggest ya have someone else shoot the rifle, as very good chance it is YOU. 9 times out of 10, if it is shooting all over the place at 25 yards it is something loose on the rifle or it is a Shooter issue. You always want to eliminate shooter error when working loads.

1: Do all test load shooting off Sand Bags & a Solid bench. If you don't, you are just wasting time, balls & powder. Front sand bag goes under the Entrypipe, not the muzzle. Rear bag goes under the butt, all rifle weight supported by the bags. If you are a flincher, get over it.

2: Have someone else shoot the rifle that is a known good marksman with BP, & see if it does any better.

3: Shoot 1" black targets at 25 yards. Do not be concerned of hitting the bull. Best it does not hit the bull, this way the sight picture never changes. Hold same sight picture each time. Shoot 3 shots & change targets. Make sure you have daylight on each side of the front sight when you look thru the rear sight. If you don't, you cannot tell where you are aiming except that general direction. If it does fill the rear sight V or U, it should just Barely fill it. I like a air gap I can see. Precisely DOCUMENT every target, powder charge, ball dia, patch thickness, lube, how much lube, did you swab & with what & just down & back or what. Document Everything.You need 2-3 dif ball sizes & 3-4 dif patch thicknesses & 3-4 dif lubes. IMHO, If it loads easy, normally it will not shoot accurately. ALL of my accurate load are Tight combos.... and always have been that way in the past 40 yrs.

4: You must be precise & do everything exactly the same Every Time. If you pack the powder one time & don't the next, it will change the POI. If you hold the rifle tight one time & loosely the next time, it will change the POI. If you swab differently it will change the POI. More lube one time than another, change in POI. Put the Sprue Up dead center every time, if it has a spru. Change in Percussion Caps will change POI. Change in pan powder will change POI. LOTS of things change POI.

5: A cheap floating rear sight is a issue at times. A loose front or rear sight is a issue. a insecure barrel is a issue. A barrel that you have to put allot of pressure to get into the stock or force the wedgepin in is an issue.

6: Look at the patches you shot. Look for tears, burnt, blown up, etc. I seldom have a issue where I even look at the patches, but have had a
couple times it told me the problem.

7: If you are used to shooting percussion & this is a flintlock, most likely you. Anyone that shoots a flintlock can shoot a percussion. But not everyone that shoots a percussion can shoot a flintlock. They get all caught up in the pan flash. Why I don't know, as I don't even think of the ignition when I shoot, regardless of what it is. A flintlock takes Follow Thru..... Allot of guys yank the trigger & lift their head at the same time.

8: Make sure the barrel is not Leaded from shooting maxies or whatever. I have seen leaded barrels shoot all over the place.

9: Most guys I know that had trouble with 1-48 twist were trying to use too much powder & totally blowing the wads. I found 60 to 75 grains of 2F or 3F in a .50 cal was always all that was necessary. Know a couple guys shooting 80-90 grain charges for hogs, but that was for penetration. Usually, the tighter the patch/ball combo, tighter group in most instances.

Keith Lisle

 

[necchi]

I've got that Rifle in 54 and it's been a match winner.
That 54 chrome lined barrel liked a 530 ball, a .021 denim dry lubed patch 1-7 with 70grns of T7 2F.
The chrome is slick, so it likes a dryish tight fitting patch.
It does not like conical's, I tried several different types of conical and it did lead the bore when I tried them. I had to get a commercial lead remover and a lot of scrubbing to get the lead out.

I got a GM drop-in several years ago and have since retired the barrel. Still got it.

At the time I had the same questions about removing the chrome and it's a no go, nobody would even try to re-bore it as the chrome is too hard on the tools to do the job.

I like a tight fitting wedge pin, so I did that fix first then I did bed the tang and back 4"s of the barrel channel.