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Removing nipples

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I too remove the nipples after every shooting session. I use QTips moistened with "Moose Milk" to clean the fouling from the threads and the nipple recess in the cylinder. The first thing I do in the cleaning process is remove the nipples and place them in a small tub to soak in "Moose Milk" while I clean the rest of the revolver. When I reinstall I place a dab of Wonderlube on the threads and this has always worked for me.
Please explain what is “Moose Milk?“ Thanks!
 
Please explain what is “Moose Milk?“ Thanks!
Moose Milk generally speaking is a home made fluid used as a patch lube.
There are dozens of different formulas for it ranging from mixing water with a water soluble oil that is used with water to cool machine cutting tools, to using Ballistol and a host of other oils.

It's called Moose Milk because these mixes are usually white in color.
 
@Zonie is spot on.

Moose Milk is a mixture of water soluble oil and water. The resulting emulsion is milky in appearance and is slick. Depending on who mixed it and for what purpose, Moose Milk can be used as a cleaner, patch lubricant. The main difference is in the ratio of oil to water and the oil that is used. @painter's Moose Milk takes advantage of the PineSol and water to clean the fouling Its the same for the Moose milk that @TexasAndy uses as he cleans his revolver. I use my mixture made using an old formula of NAPA cutting oil and water to lubricate patches. Whether you use cutting oil or Ballistol makes little difference. A mix of from one part oil to 5 to nine parts of water is a good patch lubricant. Add some rubbing alcohol to keep it from freezing in the current cold weather. Add a squirt of dishwashing soap to your mix and it is good as a patch lubricant and to dampen a patch for wiping the bore between shots or cleaning fouling off your revolver before reloading a cylinder.
A mix of one part water soluble oil to seven parts of water can be soaked into your patching material and when you let the patching dry flat, you have a good dry lubricated patching material. Couple the dry lubed patch with the same ratio of "Moose Milk" used to wipe the bore between shots is highly thought of as a very accurate target procedure.

There is another variety that uses a mix sometimes referred to as MAP and by others as Moose Milk. This is an effective cleaner. Its made of one part of Murphy's Oil Soap, one part of rubbing Alcohol (70% or 90% makes no difference), and one part of 3% hydrogen Peroxide. When this mix encounters fouling it makes an impressive amount of foam and really cleans the metal. While there are concerns that the extra oxygen in the peroxide encourages flash rusting while cleaning there are many who really love it.

Ultimately there are hundreds of Moose Milk recipes and those that use then swear by all of them and think anyone who uses any other mix need to get better educated on Moose Milk.

Oh, and when I shoot my percussion firearms, I remove the nipples.
 
I got a ROA cheap because a guy never removed the Nipples

broke 3 getting them out

I always removed the nipples always anti seize them going back in at 5 bucks each you have 30 dollars and shipping about 36 dollars in nipples there , if you let them get stuck you might end up paying some one else to get them out for you.

not worth it for the 2 minutes to take them out and put them in
 
I understand that pulling the nipples everytime is the ideal thing. But honestly I
do as I said above, maybe every 4 or five cleanings I pull nipples. I do clean flash
holes every time. I'm just too long in the tooth doing this way and getting by
with my habits. I ain't gonna lie about it-- and I cannot recall losing a cylinder over
failure to pull the nipples. The nipples I have had trouble with are from used revolvers
that I bought that I don't think ever had a nipple wrench or socket on them. We go
together and have two or sometime three guns to clean. Often dinner ready and
a lot going on. I do pretty good but do take some common sense short cuts that
over the years have done good for me. Now do I make cleaning into an all nighter?
Nope, but my guns get cleaned and they show no corrosion under my care.
Of course that is visible corrosion without microscope. Kinda like the house,
regular once a week cleaning as needed and once a month a deep clean.
 
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I’m still a newbie to the forum and a relatively new muzzleloader as well. I’ve never known in person anyone who could teach me - I’ve relied on YouTube and folks like y’all to learn.

After acquiring a number of used and abused BP revolvers (no originals...yet) and freeing numerous filthy or corroded nipples, I’ve just made it a habit to remove mine and clean after every trip to the range. My Moose’s Milk (didn’t know that’s what y’all call it until reading this thread) is one part Ballistol to ten parts water. I apply a little Shooters Choice All Weather Firearm Grease to everything with threads or mating surfaces and finally wipe everything down with a little Ballistol before putting the gun away.

I recently freed a frozen original nipple from an 1861 Springfield so that I could replace it with a modern, safer nipple. I applied penetrating oil for five months before it finally broke free - after I also applied a little heat. Shooting an original that might not have been fired in over 150 years was a lot of fun! Now if that soldier had just cleaned and applied a little grease to that nipple when he last cleaned the gun...
 
Kh54, Well maintenance is everything. These are steel and brass machines. You are fine
to lubricate with great care after cleaning. Remember to not lubricate cylinder chambers
just prior to shooting. Powder must remain free of excess oil etc. Also rifles can be
easier to clean than revolvers. My Hawkens take 20 minutes. Revolvers double or more.
Since I like to hunt for food. Black powder rifles are tools. I can use modern as well but
it is a little handicap I impose on myself using the old school tools. Because of this, I
am able to hunt two seasons, sometimes three, versus just one for the general gun hunt.
Read. Get the old Dixie catalogs and track of the wolf catalog. Join the National
Muzzleloading Rifle Assn and NRA. Put their stickers on your truck to show pride and
Second Amendment Support. I am Bill . In the future I will upload my Hawkins and
double rifles that are Family items--being my age my time to own things is fleeting.
I appreciate you getting into this because America needs its Traditions if it is to stay
free. Best to you.
 
Thank you Bill (and I’m Kim).

I’m not a hunter just a plinker and history enthusiast. I came to the hobby a little later in life. (I’ll give you a hint - I’m just old enough to have been worried about getting drafted for Vietnam.) I bought my first muzzleloader, a so-called “Zouave” musket, just over three years ago. Later I picked up several more Civil-war period muskets, all reproductions, and finally an original 1858 Enfield and the original 1861 Springfield. I shoot all but the original Enfield plus about a dozen or so revolvers. I was hoping to do some living history with my wife of 42-1/2 years, but she died last year before we could. Collecting and shooting black powder have been my main sources of therapy.

I will look into joining the national association. Thanks for the tip.
 
Any ML or cap and ball pistol remove the nipple(s) after each shooting session soak in BP lubricant, I recommend Butches BP lube clean the flash hole with a pipe cleaner or similar, I use dental pliksters, and oil before replacing in the gun or cylinder. Don’t overtighten. For my Ruger old army I also partially dissasemble the gun and clean the parts with BP lube before reassembly. Unbelievable how much black powder crud gets inside the gun during a shooting session.
 
Any ML or cap and ball pistol remove the nipple(s) after each shooting session soak in BP lubricant, I recommend Butches BP lube clean the flash hole with a pipe cleaner or similar, I use dental pliksters, and oil before replacing in the gun or cylinder. Don’t overtighten. For my Ruger old army I also partially dissasemble the gun and clean the parts with BP lube before reassembly. Unbelievable how much black powder crud gets inside the gun during a shooting session.
I remove the nipples and drop them in MAP to boil clean.
Equal parts of Murphy's-91 proof alcohol and peroxide.
10 minutes in the bath and they will boil like a festering wound. A little brushing with a soft bristle and they will look like new.
Butch's is a very good cleaner - but comes with a pretty stout price.
 
I spray the heck out of whatever revolver I've been shooting with a 1:10 Ballistol/water mix, guess that's my MM, lol. Then wrap it in a towel and let it soak for 20 minutes on the ride home. Then wipe it down, clean the barrel and chambers, nipples come out and soak in a little cup of MM. Once everything else is cleaned, dry and wipe the nipples with a towel, antiseize and back in they go. Then put the rest together, grease the arbor before the cylinder goes on, and so far life is good.

I've decided to only pull the whole gun apart about every 3 or so range trips, so far it's been too cold to be out there forever so I haven't really shot as much as I like.

I was thinking about a cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, I have no issue cleaning by hand but I guess it's the "gizmo" factor, a new toy for the man cave, lol. Anybody use them for this and like them?
 
I use a Bissell Steam Shot to clear the fire channel in TC breach after pulling the nipple after each sesson. Lots of fouling is removed. A scope shows it clean. Steam also clears the breach area where the powder burns. Swab and lube then done. Hot, dry, clean, and lubed for next time.
 
I always end up with anti seize all over whenever I use the stuff. It seems like it multiplies when it comes into contact with skin.
 

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